Leaks....

Common as they are here in wales (groan) they're not that welcome in my
S.3.

I'm planning to remove all the tarry gunk that seals the gutters (and
is all cracked and leaky) and replace it with something else (possibly
bathroom sealant).

Any ideas chaps?

Many thanks

DH

"David Harper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
> Common as they are here in wales (groan) they're not that welcome in my
> S.3.
>
> I'm planning to remove all the tarry gunk that seals the gutters (and
> is all cracked and leaky) and replace it with something else (possibly
> bathroom sealant).
>
> Any ideas chaps?
>
> Many thanks
>
> DH
>

Try visiting your local caravan accessory shop.
have a look at

http://www.caravanninglinks.co.uk/look_for_damp.htm


Ged

On 26 Apr 2005 14:13:20 -0700, "David Harper"
<[email protected]> wrote:

>Common as they are here in wales (groan) they're not that welcome in my
>S.3.
>
>I'm planning to remove all the tarry gunk that seals the gutters (and
>is all cracked and leaky) and replace it with something else (possibly
>bathroom sealant).
>
>Any ideas chaps?

The 'tarry gunk' is possibly dum-dum sealant which is actually really
good stuff, and is also used for sealing the windows in. It only costs
about £4 for a tin and can be applied easily outside as it doesnt need
time to try (it stays wet for years). I touched my series roof up with
that and it worked pretty well.

I have also put a lot of effort into sealing up the leaky roof on my
101, for this i used silicone sealant.
If you do this, then make sure it is real silicone stuff not an
alternative 'sealant' (real silicone costs a lot more but works much
better!). The pretend sealants take a lot more work to get a proper
seal with and take longer to dry (which is very relevant when you are
working outside on a roof in UK weather!)

"David Harper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Common as they are here in wales (groan) they're not that welcome in my
S.3.

I'm planning to remove all the tarry gunk that seals the gutters (and
is all cracked and leaky) and replace it with something else (possibly
bathroom sealant).

Any ideas chaps?

Many thanks

DH

GASP! Expect a Series not to leak?

Seriously though, I had the same problem with the truck cab roof, left the
old stuff in place (too much like hard work removing it) and got some
silicone sealer from the local body shop, quite thin stuff that just poured,
and I kept pouring till the old sealer was covered up. Stands up to the
Queensland sun nicely, and no leaks from there.

Lots of leaks from other places, but then it's not often that it rains here,
and when it does, it knows how to rain properly ... 3" in an hour is not
unheard of. So everything gets wet anyway, but at least the driver's seat no
longer has a pool of water in the middle.

Karen

On Wed, 27 Apr 2005 02:18:47 +0100, Tom Woods wrote:

> If you do this, then make sure it is real silicone stuff not an
> alternative 'sealant' (real silicone costs a lot more but works much
> better!).

Also be aware that some "silicone" sealants release Acetic Acid when
curing (you can smell it), this may or may not be a good idea to have
on or near metal panels...

--
Cheers [email protected]
Dave. pam is missing e-mail

"Karen Gallagher" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:e2Dbe.54
> Seriously though, I had the same problem with the truck cab roof, left the
> old stuff in place (too much like hard work removing it) and got some
> silicone sealer from the local body shop, quite thin stuff that just
poured,
> and I kept pouring till the old sealer was covered up. Stands up to the
> Queensland sun nicely, and no leaks from there.
>
> Lots of leaks from other places, but then it's not often that it rains
here,
> and when it does, it knows how to rain properly ... 3" in an hour is not
> unheard of. So everything gets wet anyway, but at least the driver's seat
no
> longer has a pool of water in the middle.

Have you tried taking the whole rear tub off. It's a weekends worth of work,
but good fun. The thick rubber seal that runs between the body and rear tub
was a big cause of leaks in our SIII. The rubber can be bought from
Paddocks/Craddocks for a few quid.
The main leak was from the side panel/roof join. Water tracked back under
the gutter and ran in under the tar/hessian seal. We cut it back flush and
covered with silicone.

Less soggy carpets these days.
David

"DavidM" <djm81@(I hate spam)cam.ac.uk> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> "Karen Gallagher" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:e2Dbe.54
> > Seriously though, I had the same problem with the truck cab roof, left the
> > old stuff in place (too much like hard work removing it) and got some
> > silicone sealer from the local body shop, quite thin stuff that just
> poured,
> > and I kept pouring till the old sealer was covered up. Stands up to the
> > Queensland sun nicely, and no leaks from there.
> >
> > Lots of leaks from other places, but then it's not often that it rains
> here,
> > and when it does, it knows how to rain properly ... 3" in an hour is not
> > unheard of. So everything gets wet anyway, but at least the driver's seat
> no
> > longer has a pool of water in the middle.
>
> Have you tried taking the whole rear tub off. It's a weekends worth of work,
> but good fun. The thick rubber seal that runs between the body and rear tub
> was a big cause of leaks in our SIII. The rubber can be bought from
> Paddocks/Craddocks for a few quid.
> The main leak was from the side panel/roof join. Water tracked back under
> the gutter and ran in under the tar/hessian seal. We cut it back flush and
> covered with silicone.

Beginning to think that removing the roof and starting from scratch is
the way to go. Trouble is (like you said) it's a weekend's work and
will need a weekend with no water falling from the sky. I assume I'll
need a few people to help me lift the damn thing off too (it's an 88
hardtop).

Many thanks for the help

DH

In message <[email protected]>
[email protected] (David Harper) wrote:

> "DavidM" <djm81@(I hate spam)cam.ac.uk> wrote in message news:<[email protected]>...
> > "Karen Gallagher" <[email protected]> wrote in message news:e2Dbe.54
> > > Seriously though, I had the same problem with the truck cab roof, left the
> > > old stuff in place (too much like hard work removing it) and got some
> > > silicone sealer from the local body shop, quite thin stuff that just
> > poured,
> > > and I kept pouring till the old sealer was covered up. Stands up to the
> > > Queensland sun nicely, and no leaks from there.
> > >
> > > Lots of leaks from other places, but then it's not often that it rains
> > here,
> > > and when it does, it knows how to rain properly ... 3" in an hour is not
> > > unheard of. So everything gets wet anyway, but at least the driver's seat
> > no
> > > longer has a pool of water in the middle.
> >
> > Have you tried taking the whole rear tub off. It's a weekends worth of work,
> > but good fun. The thick rubber seal that runs between the body and rear tub
> > was a big cause of leaks in our SIII. The rubber can be bought from
> > Paddocks/Craddocks for a few quid.
> > The main leak was from the side panel/roof join. Water tracked back under
> > the gutter and ran in under the tar/hessian seal. We cut it back flush and
> > covered with silicone.
>
> Beginning to think that removing the roof and starting from scratch is
> the way to go. Trouble is (like you said) it's a weekend's work and
> will need a weekend with no water falling from the sky. I assume I'll
> need a few people to help me lift the damn thing off too (it's an 88
> hardtop).
>
> Many thanks for the help
>
> DH

Only 2 people required - even with the sides attached its surprisingly
light.

Richard
--
www.beamends-lrspares.co.uk [email protected]
Running a business in a Microsoft free environment - it can be done
Powered by Risc-OS - you won't get a virus from us!!
Helping keep Land Rovers on and off the road to annoy the Lib Dems

David Harper wrote:

> Beginning to think that removing the roof and starting from scratch is
> the way to go. Trouble is (like you said) it's a weekend's work and
> will need a weekend with no water falling from the sky. I assume I'll
> need a few people to help me lift the damn thing off too (it's an 88
> hardtop).

My 10 year old son and I lifted the hardtop onto my SWB together -
they're more awkward than heavy.


--
EMB

what you want to get is polyurethane sealant , its comes under various
makes but a commonly used type in car repairing is SIKAFLEX 221 .

it will stick or seal just about anything and will seal youre gutter
easily .

costs around 7 pounds per tube but you need the longer mastic gun to
carry the poly sealant tubes, ie a 300mm long gun .

when applying it you just lay a bead of sealant along down in the
gutter and then get youre finger and a cup of either white spirit or
synthetic thinners and after wetting finger you just drag it along to
form a nice uniform shaped fillet .
with wetting the finger youll make the surface of sealant slippery and
easy to manipulate into shape .

you can put on vinyl gloves if you want proper protection from the
chemicals but most of use just apply the sealant and then clean our
hand straight afterwards .

you can buy the poly sealant in various colours but usually its mostly
supplied in white or black .

you can paint over it .

just allow about 8 hours for the sealant to go off , in normal temps .
longer in cold .

if you use silicone sealant you wont be able to paint over it, paint
wont stick to it .

In news:[email protected],
m0bcg <[email protected]> blithered:
> what you want to get is polyurethane sealant , its comes under various
> makes but a commonly used type in car repairing is SIKAFLEX 221 .

Supposed to be wonderful for repairing Convex All Stars skateboarding sneakers!


> it will stick or seal just about anything and will seal youre gutter
> easily .
>
> costs around 7 pounds per tube but you need the longer mastic gun to
> carry the poly sealant tubes, ie a 300mm long gun .
>
> when applying it you just lay a bead of sealant along down in the
> gutter and then get youre finger and a cup of either white spirit or
> synthetic thinners and after wetting finger you just drag it along to
> form a nice uniform shaped fillet .
> with wetting the finger youll make the surface of sealant slippery and
> easy to manipulate into shape .
>
> you can put on vinyl gloves if you want proper protection from the
> chemicals but most of use just apply the sealant and then clean our
> hand straight afterwards .
>
> you can buy the poly sealant in various colours but usually its mostly
> supplied in white or black .
>
> you can paint over it .
>
> just allow about 8 hours for the sealant to go off , in normal temps .
> longer in cold .
>
> if you use silicone sealant you wont be able to paint over it, paint
> wont stick to it .



--
"She who says it cannot be done should not interrupt him doing it."

If at first you don't succeed,
maybe skydiving's not for you!

Siliconesealant( onmating surfaces) - buy from local buildr's merchants for about £1.50 (plus 47p for 'gun'). As you don'tpaint mating surface between w/s top & roof, roof to side top s etc, lack of paint adhesion is irrelevant. I'm assuming you use 'gutters' to mean 'mating faces'etc. Leftover 'gum'can be usd in bathroom and onhouse gutters etc.
My niternet connection isintermittent soany disagreements or flames should be pm'dor emailed.Fixabove workedformee....

Many thanks for all your help chaps all gratefully received.

Removed the whole roof on Saturday and scraped all the old gunk out
with a heat gun & a scraper. Re-sealed it all with polyurethane sealant
and then rivetted the bugger back on. Job's a good 'un (needless to say
my wrists are hurting like hell!)

The tragic ending is that I popped out to a mate's house earlier (after
a thunderous downpour) and the £$%&ing thing still leaks!!! It's
getting into the channel above the windscren where the whole roof
assembly bolts on to the rest of the vehicle. I'm thinking about
running a bead along the inside too as a last resort.

I'll be in the garage tearing my hair out....

DH

OK, where is the water ending up? If it's ending up inside the channel in
the roof, the leak can only be in the roof where it joins the channel (or
within the roof itself, if it's ever been drilled for lamps etc) and it can
only be that seam. More sealer required.

If it's coming in at the roof, and pouring down the windscreen or
sidescreens, the leak is caused by the rubber seal between the roof panel &
the top of the screens. Change the seal.

And we're not ALL chaps here

Karen

"David Harper" <[email protected]> wrote in message
news:[email protected]...
Many thanks for all your help chaps all gratefully received.

Removed the whole roof on Saturday and scraped all the old gunk out
with a heat gun & a scraper. Re-sealed it all with polyurethane sealant
and then rivetted the bugger back on. Job's a good 'un (needless to say
my wrists are hurting like hell!)

The tragic ending is that I popped out to a mate's house earlier (after
a thunderous downpour) and the £$%&ing thing still leaks!!! It's
getting into the channel above the windscren where the whole roof
assembly bolts on to the rest of the vehicle. I'm thinking about
running a bead along the inside too as a last resort.

I'll be in the garage tearing my hair out....

DH