landrover discovery 300 tdi m reg

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300td

New Member
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16
morning campers lets hope this post goes better than my last one eh.

i have a landrover discovery 300 2.5 tdi on m reg so around 1994 1995. it has covered 188000 miles and needs some tinkering.

iv got most jobs done so far but still having problems from the rear of the car. it started making sounds like a shagged wheel bearing crunching and stuff when rolling just a general racket from the back, so i had a butchers and noticed the axel pinion seal i think its called was ****ing oil out so set about changing it which wasnt as bad as i thought after the stories i was told especially with my method of removing the pinion.

so when i got the pinion out i found that the 23 -24mm nut that secures the tapered bearing was finger tight leaving the bearing to rattle around abit, i also found the oil to have what i can only guess to have mixed with water turning it into a thick none lubricating grease due wading without a wading kit.


iv now got a wading kit to fit aswell as pinion bearing wheel bearings ect with new seals and gaskets for full axel but the bit that bothers me is the back-lash i think you call it in the diff .The play in prop shaft before wheels start turning which cause a clunk on and off throttle.

iv done some reading and tried to get my head around how diffs work ect and so far iv seen the best way is to play about with shims to space it ect but the vids i viewed were all yanks and not on a discovery so pretty much void.

so my reason for my long boring post was to see if theres a guid available online or walk through vids on curing the back lash on a rear diff for the above vehicle..

now my last thread wasnt any good so i hope this one has all the info you need to help me out i dont care if my spelling isnt good or theres not enough full stops. just friendly help would be good cheers.
 

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Hi 300TDi, here's a few thoughts for your consideration:

1. If the axle breather wasn't protecting the diff, then may I suggest you check/clean the 90° fitting on the axle case that the breather pipe fits onto.

On my wife's Defender, the breather function wasn't working because the axle case fitting was blocked with crud. Remove the fitting, separate the two pieces, clean thoroughly and reinstall.


2. Clunks on and off the throttle are often caused by a worn "A-frame" ball-joint. The diffs might also have some play, but check this ball-joint for play. Easy and cheap to replace.

To do the job you need to jack up the body to create working room. The very easiest way to do this is to remove the 'carrier' from the A-frame arms, then work at it on a bench, or even just buy a new one.

3. I like your puller !!!!


Good luck

Dave
 
Hi 300TDi, here's a few thoughts for your consideration:

1. If the axle breather wasn't protecting the diff, then may I suggest you check/clean the 90° fitting on the axle case that the breather pipe fits onto.

On my wife's Defender, the breather function wasn't working because the axle case fitting was blocked with crud. Remove the fitting, separate the two pieces, clean thoroughly and reinstall.


2. Clunks on and off the throttle are often caused by a worn "A-frame" ball-joint. The diffs might also have some play, but check this ball-joint for play. Easy and cheap to replace.

To do the job you need to jack up the body to create working room. The very easiest way to do this is to remove the 'carrier' from the A-frame arms, then work at it on a bench, or even just buy a new one.

3. I like your puller !!!!


Good luck

Dave


hi dave thanks for the info and i take note what you say about the diff breather but like i said i have been wading with standard breather hose and bought an aftermarket longer on so when i have the axet off next week ill fit this new kit.

iv spotted the a frame" thing i suppose i can just check it like a lower ball joint for play but iv had some one inside the cab and handbrake on with biting point on and off whilst am looking at the propshaft and its pretty much the back lash i spoke about causing the clunk as theres alot of movement before it "engages".


just need to find a good clear video on stripping the diff or more to the point rebuilding it with no play.
 
morning campers lets hope this post goes better than my last one eh.

i have a landrover discovery 300 2.5 tdi on m reg so around 1994 1995. it has covered 188000 miles and needs some tinkering.

iv got most jobs done so far but still having problems from the rear of the car. it started making sounds like a shagged wheel bearing crunching and stuff when rolling just a general racket from the back, so i had a butchers and noticed the axel pinion seal i think its called was ****ing oil out so set about changing it which wasnt as bad as i thought after the stories i was told especially with my method of removing the pinion.

so when i got the pinion out i found that the 23 -24mm nut that secures the tapered bearing was finger tight leaving the bearing to rattle around abit, i also found the oil to have what i can only guess to have mixed with water turning it into a thick none lubricating grease due wading without a wading kit.


iv now got a wading kit to fit aswell as pinion bearing wheel bearings ect with new seals and gaskets for full axel but the bit that bothers me is the back-lash i think you call it in the diff .The play in prop shaft before wheels start turning which cause a clunk on and off throttle.

iv done some reading and tried to get my head around how diffs work ect and so far iv seen the best way is to play about with shims to space it ect but the vids i viewed were all yanks and not on a discovery so pretty much void.

so my reason for my long boring post was to see if theres a guid available online or walk through vids on curing the back lash on a rear diff for the above vehicle..

now my last thread wasnt any good so i hope this one has all the info you need to help me out i dont care if my spelling isnt good or theres not enough full stops. just friendly help would be good cheers.

This might help :

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zHi_usC7KGE&list=PL84A5F0315ACA69EF
 
has diff flange still got play in it ?

hi by flange do you neam what the rear of the prop bolts to ? if so it has no movement in terms of knackered bearing just when you turn it left to right takes about 1/4 of a full turn before it engages and starts turning the wheels.

hope that makes sense ill try get a lil vid next week to show you but im pretty sure what the way is to fix it just not 100% on way to do it hopefully vids above will help.
 
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