Land Rover Freelander TD4 S - Rear Wheels Locked

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bogbob

Member
Posts
13
Location
Salisbury
Hi
I have a 2002 Freelander TD4. Its done 235000 miles with a service history to back up how well it drives....or did! The VCU was changed 35000 miles ago, no noises, really a pleasure to drive.....
On Tuesday I drove 300 miles in it, with about 1/2 a mile of muddy stuff. Got home, switched it off all good. Wednesday morning I started it, engaged gear, went to drive off and the rear wheels are locked...it dragged them along like a broken thing. Has my rear diff ceased? There was no indication of any issues the previous day...so quite a surpise

All help much appreciated

Dan
 
I'd remove the props and see if it resolves the problem. The rear diff can go bang, if the VCU has caused excessive wear. The rear drive pinion from the IRD can also cause this issue, and is my guess. Removing the props will prove this.
One VCU at those miles isn't many, considering they have a life of 70,000 miles or so.
 
The older freelanders do have a habit of locking the handbrake on as @dfossil says.
If reversing doesn't unlock it, take the rear wheels of and bang the drums with a hammer, repeatedly and quite hard. Then remove the drums working a flat bladed screwdriver round them. The self adjusters tend to stick, so oil them up. Personally I took the brake assembly to pieces, lubed everything and reassembled them. Just take a picture of them in place first so you know where it all goes.
When back together sit in the car and do not put the handbrake on!
Start the engine and press the brake pedal repeatedly, you will hear the self adjusters clicking. Do this til it stops clicking. It takes ages, but is the correct way to do the handbrake.
Mike
 
I discounted the handbrake as it's unlikely to affect both rear wheels at the same time. I have a grabbing rear drum, but only one side jambs on.
 
Thanks guys, I'll try unhitching the prop first (fingers crossed that doesnt sort it)...Its now on its 3rd VCU as changed initially at 120k
Then if that doesnt make a difference I'll batter the brakes into submission and rebuild!!!
 
bogbob said:
Thanks guys, I'll try unhitching the prop first (fingers crossed that doesnt sort it)...Its now on its 3rd VCU as changed initially at 120k
Then if that doesnt make a difference I'll batter the brakes into submission and rebuild!!!
Click to expand...
Ours used to lock both wheels on and it was the handbrake, especially after some wet weather so your muddy driving fits the picture. To get moving, try tapping the drums through the gaps in the wheelspokes. Once going you can pull the drums off and clean everything up. Find the handbrake actuator lever at the bottom of the mechanisms and work it back and forth with a pair of mole grips. Poke in some copper grease for a temporary fix.

If you want to service the whole mechanism you can do it with taking any shoe springs off - disconnect the handbrake actuator and shoe hold downs, lever the shoes over the bottom pivot, then turn the hub so that the entire shoe assembly can pull over it. It can be done (I've done it countless times) and saves the hassle of fighting the shoe springs.
 
I'll backup the comments about brakes binding - mine used to do it overnight after launching the boat - fixed it by not putting the handbrake on after launching. After rocking the car forwards and backwards on the engine gradually increasing the drive, they used to give... with a big bang.

However, it never got so bad as to drag the wheels - and makes me wonder if it is the brakes.

The only other thread that that I've noticed on the forum with this level of binding turned out to be the rear diff - so that would be my guess.

I'm sure its impossible for it to be the IRD, or else it would lock the fronts as well.
 
Left my first one parked up in my garage for a couple of weeks, after which it had to be dragged out by a recovery truck. When the brakes finally let go it was bloody terrifying.
 
Thanks for all your input. I jacked each rear corner up, popped off each wheel and gave each drum 5 or 6 sound thumps with a rubber headed mallet. Wheels back on and hey presto....theyre not locked anymaore....the old girl is running like a steamtrain again : )
 
Stuck rear brakes - what a begger !!! :)

It usually is all those bloody Kiwi miscreants dumping them in salt water..... :eek:

Or, looking for 'Pokemon' junkies to 'mow down' regardless of the conditions.

Glad you got it sorted mate ;)
 
when my wife's freelander does that I will put it into reverse and it soon pops off it is usually happens when its damp just get a power washer and power wash the drums from the back to wash all the dust out
 
teddywood1 said:
when my wife's freelander does that I will put it into reverse and it soon pops off it is usually happens when its damp just get a power washer and power wash the drums from the back to wash all the dust out
Click to expand...
Hi guys thanks for the help here. Am facing the same problem here. My rear wheel locks as well, let me try and give you a feedback.
 
guineafowl21 said:
Ours used to lock both wheels on and it was the handbrake, especially after some wet weather so your muddy driving fits the picture. To get moving, try tapping the drums through the gaps in the wheelspokes. Once going you can pull the drums off and clean everything up. Find the handbrake actuator lever at the bottom of the mechanisms and work it back and forth with a pair of mole grips. Poke in some copper grease for a temporary fix.

If you want to service the whole mechanism you can do it with taking any shoe springs off - disconnect the handbrake actuator and shoe hold downs, lever the shoes over the bottom pivot, then turn the hub so that the entire shoe assembly can pull over it. It can be done (I've done it countless times) and saves the hassle of fighting the shoe springs.
Click to expand...
Hi guys thanks for the help here. Am facing the same problem here. My rear wheel locks as well, let me try and give you a feedback.
 
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