L322 TD6 Gearbox Slipping

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james130577

New Member
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3
Location
Aberdeen Scotland
I recently bought a 2002 model TD6 Range Rover, but am experiencing some gearbox issues.

The box changes gear fine both up and down but seems like it is slipping in some way. If I put the box in manual in higher gears like 4th or 5th and put my foot down the revs rise a lot and the car speeds up, but disproportionally to the revs. Eventually it matches if i give it less left foot. (almost seems like torque converter is weak)

I took the car to a local independent who told me the box was on its way out and had a couple of months left. Cost to replace box would be about £4k. They say no fault codes showing on computer yet.

The thing is that the box seems fine other than this, and I wondered if changing the oil and filter etc might remedy the situation, or is it simply putting off the inevitable.

I am new to the forum, so any advice greatly appreciated. Currently pondering whether to try a filter/oil change, get the box changed or trade the car in before it fails catastrophically.
 
You could check if there’s fine metallic debris in the fluid. If there is then your 5L40-E has the ‘standard’ torque converter lock-up clutch failure and will need to be rebuilt.
 

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Thanks to both of you above for your quick replies. Didn't think there would be anyone else up at this time of the talking gearboxes.

Bemble-, excuse my technical ignorance, but if it is the torque converter that is starting to break up, is it a case of just rebuilding the torque converter and change of oil/filter or is it basically a gearbox out and total rebuild for the box.(ie is the box dead) I am not familiar with these boxes at all, but the symptoms seem very much like the torque converter slipping as I initially thought was it may just need an oil change to remidy the problem?

If it is at the early stages of this would an oil change help at all or am I just wasting good money that could go toward a new box?

If I do need a new box fitted, how reliable will a rebuilt box be versus a new one. I see that companies like K Motors offer a rebuilt option fully fitted for about £2300, but my local LR specialist told me that they have had lots of problems with rebuilt boxes failing after a short time and would only fit a genuine new GM/Land rover box at a cost of £4k+

In short do you think the rebuilt box will last?

Sorry for all the questions, but trying to decide what to do next for the best and without bankrupting me. Thanks
 
If you have fine metallic debris in the fluid then I shouldn’t waste your money on a fluid change, but I admire your optimism :). Unfortunately the torque converter lock-up clutch wear is a symptom and not the cause of the failure so just replacing the converter will not permanently fix your problem. Valve block issues and burnt clutches are also part of the failure. Putting a 360Nm capacity transmission behind a 390Nm engine (plus fill-for-life fluids) means that the 5L40-E transmissions tend to last between 80,000 and 100,000 miles in the L322 (depending on how they’ve been driven, obviously).

Regarding a remanufactured transmission, clearly you’re totally dependent on what parts have been replaced. I guess the warranty offered will give you a clue.
 
Thanks for the concise information. I will take it as read that the transmission is dead and try to find out the best place to go for a replacement that will last. Don't think there is much point in trying anything else.

I did have one last question. I assume the Lock up Clutch is electronically controled by some means. Is it possible that the box is not getting the signal to lock this up or is it all done internally to the box. There would be no chance that I get a new box put in and the problem comes back soon after because of some external issue like electronic control. I have had a similar problem before in a mercedes which caused the air suspension to stop working because the alternator was faulty and was not charging the battery to above 12.5v which was the minimum limit for starting the air pump.

Any chance there could be an external cause stoping clutch locking up?
 
Very unlikely I think. The problem is usually an internal one – with the torque converter clutch pulse width modulation solenoid valve.

Have you actually confirmed that the fluid has metallic debris in it?
 

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Thanks for the concise information. I will take it as read that the transmission is dead and try to find out the best place to go for a replacement that will last. Don't think there is much point in trying anything else.

I did have one last question. I assume the Lock up Clutch is electronically controled by some means. Is it possible that the box is not getting the signal to lock this up or is it all done internally to the box. There would be no chance that I get a new box put in and the problem comes back soon after because of some external issue like electronic control. I have had a similar problem before in a mercedes which caused the air suspension to stop working because the alternator was faulty and was not charging the battery to above 12.5v which was the minimum limit for starting the air pump.
Any chance there could be an external cause stoping clutch locking up?

Hi James i am new to this site but three month ago my clutch was slipping and i thought it was the torque convertor. There was no steel in the gearbox sump so all i did was change the oil and the filter which touch wood cured my problem well at least for the last 3 month. The gear box is fill for life but like i stated it cured my car.
I have a 2004 L322 TD6 with 125,000 miles
 
Hi i am new to this and have been searching google and calling my local garages to find a fix or actually accept the fact i need a rebuild on my gearbox.

I am 27 and have a L322 TD6 Hse Auto on 02 plate.
When i was 21 i got a p38 bmw 2.5 manual and loved it so i upgraded to the L322 TD6 Hse Auto on 02 plate last year and now i am having a problem with the auto gear change all was fine back in December until a week before Xmas the gear change juddered into 4th then 5th only on high acceleration (not driving like a young idiot as someone said) i fort nothing of it as i didn't want to think my box was on its way out.

Today and since ive been driving it by not going over 3.5k revs as this causes it in any gears as but mainly in 3rd to 4th, 4th to 5th No error codes showing on dash.

Ive had a recent diagnostic that showed transfer box faults and the guy cleared and then re-calibrated somthing on the ODB tool , so i had a gear oil, filter and gasket change also the EGR Filters and no metal bits only black oil not burnt tho, the result was it did make her move quicker and drive smoother but the problem has not gone can anyone help as ive been told by one garage "new box!" another "over haul on box" and another "seems you need a new car mate" i love my car and dont want her to totally die as i love these cars and will need to trade her in to add to the newer model in a year maybe two.
 
Should have kept the P38, an L322 is a downgrade.
When the oil was changed, did the garage use the correct oil? A special oil is required.
Gearbox is a common failure item, do a search, plenty of stories of grief. Life expectancy is 81 to 110K miles.
Budget £3K for box recon, TQ and new oil filter etc.
 
Made mention that the oil was black, but not burnt wth no bits....

Hmmmmm, black gearbox oil is a sure sign of impending doom I am afraid!

The GM5 box WILL give out at some point, it is not a matter of if...just when.

With respect, a rebuilt box with revised Sonnax Valve Block and new Torque Converter are the only options.

Bite that bullet and get it done before it goes completely miles from home!
 
Hi Guys sorry iam new to this i hadnt realised anyone had commented lol.

Thanks for replying i do miss my old P38 she was a looker and towed well.

Deep down i knew this was the end results getting a new box or recon i just didn't want it to happen:(, so thats why i had the oil services and filters done.
They did use correct oil i did research that before going there and before i said it he already mentioned it so i knew he knew what he was talking about.

i went to Benington land rover center Hertfordshire local to me about 3 weeks ago as he deals only in Land rover he didn't recommend new oil change and services i asked him as i was hoping it would work as i had herd from reading round on post's.
He did say if it does not work to get a over haul on the box so what would you guys recommend as ive seen things like Gear box, tansfer box,oil cooler,torque converter and sensors??
And Can anyone recommend any one local to Hertfordshire or Stevenage as i have the recommended funds to start Monday if i know they are right for the job and i dont get ripped off.
 
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Mr Chicken George

Just had my gearbox on my TD6 reconditioned by Stephens Engineering in Ware, Herts as recommended from another forum member on here

All good!

Take your car down there and they will come out and diagnose the likely problem for no charge

Good luck
 
No need to do the Transfer Box....just change its fluid....

It is wise to change the GB Oil Cooler and pipes as these fur up due to old cruddy oil.

Not sure what sensors you are on about....but a replacement Sonnax Valve Block is a major bonus as the fault manifests itself from the original valve block design being made from poor quality materials.
 
Thanks Hippo they where top of my list as i did research them but had no recommendation,When speaking with Jason he seemed like he knows his stuff.

Know a recommendation i will be going there today thanks mate.
 
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