L322 L322 TD6 Cattle grid noise and squeak under acceleration

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philb1977

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L322 04 TD6 Vogue. OK so I am working through the issues with my recent purchase and am experiencing the following when accelerating. Cattle grid kind of noise / sensation from rear N/S wheel and now this morning added to this is a squeak which is in tune with the rumble. I changed the torque converter a week ago for a recondition unit with upgraded friction material which has certainly dampened the cattle grid noise from how it was before. It is worth mentioning that I get a little pulse sensation when accelerating slowly at around 55mph but no movement in the Rev counter.

Now I am wondering if the new TC is faulty but at this stage am inclined to assume that is fine and something else is the cause. Any suggestions or has anyone experienced the same? Every search I do just comes back to TC
 
Did you do a pressure test of the gearvox valve block?

The chief issue with the gm5 box is the valve spools wear the valve block causing reduced hydraulic pressure - this is what knackers the torque converter lock up clutch......low pressure to the lock up clurxh piston which means it slips and wears out.

You could have a perfectly good torque converter, but the calve blpck is worn.
 
Datatek that was my initial thoughts but there is little info out there suggesting these symptoms.
Saint that’s an interesting suggestion. The box change is very smooth with no slip and very responsive to change both up and down as you would expect it to perform. Are there other symptoms to this issue? I did wonder if maybe trans fluid might be a little low now it has all settled following the TC replacement. Could this cause the same issue? I am also guessing the “squeak” couldn’t be related to the box or am I wrong there?
 
philb1977 said:
Datatek that was my initial thoughts but there is little info out there suggesting these symptoms.
Saint that’s an interesting suggestion. The box change is very smooth with no slip and very responsive to change both up and down as you would expect it to perform. Are there other symptoms to this issue? I did wonder if maybe trans fluid might be a little low now it has all settled following the TC replacement. Could this cause the same issue? I am also guessing the “squeak” couldn’t be related to the box or am I wrong there?
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You do know that the ATF has to be checked for level at the correct temperature?
I think Saint's suggestion is the most likely, he's the man who knows the L322.
 
Yes I have read this morning between 35 and 45 degrees.... not so sure the transmission place that changed the TC knew that or not though.
 
I hope they used the correct fluid as any old atf will not do it must be the correct and expensive stuff, as Saint mentioned most problems stem from the valve block.
 
brianp38dse said:
OK that's good and rules that one out.
Click to expand...
I’m now hoping it is simply a little low on fluid which I guess would reduce the pressure in the system? We shall see a little later when I can get down to the trans place to get the filler nut cracked as it I can’t open it!
 
So update... Been to the transmission place and we checked the fluids and all exactly as should be. Went for a very lengthy drive with the guy and he is pretty sure it is not TC or Gearbox but thinks it quite probably is the transfer box. Is this something that would likely create similar symptoms?
 
philb1977 said:
So update... Been to the transmission place and we checked the fluids and all exactly as should be. Went for a very lengthy drive with the guy and he is pretty sure it is not TC or Gearbox but thinks it quite probably is the transfer box. Is this something that would likely create similar symptoms?
Click to expand...
No..
The valveblock is a COMMON fault, which as said above causes the TC lock up clutch to prematurely wear, it is a fools errand not to have the Sonnax Valveblock fitted.
 
The gearbox guy is adamant that the noise is not TC saying it does not sound like TC lockup noise. To try to describe the noise again it is a like a thumping noise which I can get at pretty much any speed or gear if I hit the accelerator hard and the second my foot is lifted form the accelerator pedal the noise stops instantly. Sorry if sounds like I am not believing what you are saying I am just getting conflicting suggestions so want to try and be as sure as possible before throwing any money at it :)
 
So little more info... I have just been out now the roads are a little quieter and the thudding / pulsing noise under acceleration I can keep constantly going through the gear changes so the thudding does not let up until I let of the accelerator peddle. This happens exactly the same in drive, sport and manual gear changes. Whilst the sound seems to be coming from the rear NS wheel I also think it may be coming from the middle of the car. Any thoughts or are we still positive it is Gearbox LUC?
 
Given your recent symptoms, it may not be the LUC or Gearbox (but the fault with the valve block is still a potential issue - just not this one!)

I would be checking the propshaft UJ/Guibo joints (the rubber bits), the rear prop centre bearing (although this usualy a rumble than a thud/knock), Transfer box is pretty robust, but maybe dropping the oil out of it and checking its condition could be an idea.
 
Yes I think that sounds like a plan. I will get some fresh oil and drop the transfer box oil tomorrow and whilst under the car check all the joints and grease them. I shall update again once complete :) TY for everyones input so far
 
So update..... I checked all the joints etc and all seem to be in good order no splits or signs of weeping. I dropped the transfer case oil and it was pretty bad black in colour, lots of clumps of oil and did not smell good! test driven on the fresh oil and it has not really improved anything however I had to drive it this morning to get the oil and the noise is getting worse to the point I actually thought something was going to come through the floor. Metal against metal bangs and the noise has turned more to how I might describe as a machine gun. Still once you let off the accelerator the noise stops and the car drives perfectly fine as if something is struggling to engage but then once engaged it is OK. One good thing about the noise getting worse is it seems easier to place the noise which is definitely coming from the middle of the car I would say below the front center armrest area.
 
philb1977 said:
So update..... I checked all the joints etc and all seem to be in good order no splits or signs of weeping. I dropped the transfer case oil and it was pretty bad black in colour, lots of clumps of oil and did not smell good! test driven on the fresh oil and it has not really improved anything however I had to drive it this morning to get the oil and the noise is getting worse to the point I actually thought something was going to come through the floor. Metal against metal bangs and the noise has turned more to how I might describe as a machine gun. Still once you let off the accelerator the noise stops and the car drives perfectly fine as if something is struggling to engage but then once engaged it is OK. One good thing about the noise getting worse is it seems easier to place the noise which is definitely coming from the middle of the car I would say below the front center armrest area.
Click to expand...
To check the UJ's, you need one front and one rear wheel off the ground to release any windup, otherwise the joints may look OK as they will be under load.
 
Datatek said:
To check the UJ's, you need one front and one rear wheel off the ground to release any windup, otherwise the joints may look OK as they will be under load.
Click to expand...
Hmmm now that I am going to struggle to do on my drive with what little equipment I have
 
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