L322 Immobiliser issue

Invknow this is nothing to do with the L322, but recently, I've been having "fun" with my 38.

I installed different seats. Full electric, memory and heated.

Not sure how it's related, but for some reason, my key is being somewhat strange!

I'll unlock, drive the car (in tonight's case, 86 miles) and go to lock it, perfect. No issues. But if I unlock, not start and go to lock again, it will NOT lock the doors until I unlock (even though it is already "unlocked") then lock again.

The point being, somehow, the seat changes (along with replacement HEVAC) may have somehow affected the locking signal

Never done this before, ever in the 2.5yrs I've owned the car.

So, I'm thinking maybe resistance in the "ring mains" (electrical gremlin in the whole circuit) has caused a blip.

Perhaps, as suggested, you need to try a different battery and see what occurs.....

Last summer, I had to go on a field trip to a truck where the new owner decided to disassemble the key fob and the ferrite bit fell out.

The key simply would not turn under any circumstances.

His experience made me wonder just how sophisticated the coil around the key is as it seemed to both of us that just about anything that would detune the circuit would release the lock.

PTSchram said:

Last summer, I had to go on a field trip to a truck where the new owner decided to disassemble the key fob and the ferrite bit fell out.

The key simply would not turn under any circumstances.

His experience made me wonder just how sophisticated the coil around the key is as it seemed to both of us that just about anything that would detune the circuit would release the lock.

Click to expand...

On the P38, the coil round the ignition barrel triggers the FOB using medium frequency signal causing the FOB to transmit in the normal manner, the BECM receives that transmission and re-syncs the rolling code.
No idea how it works on the L322, it certainly is not the same as the P38.

Datatek said:

On the P38, the coil round the ignition barrel triggers the FOB using medium frequency signal causing the FOB to transmit in the normal manner, the BECM receives that transmission and re-syncs the rolling code.
No idea how it works on the L322, it certainly is not the same as the P38.

Click to expand...

North American Spec P38s didn't get the robust security system you guys got.

PTSchram said:

North American Spec P38s didn't get the robust security system you guys got.

Click to expand...

Just some features in the BECM turned off I suspect.

Datatek said:

Just some features in the BECM turned off I suspect.

Click to expand...

And hardware absent as well.

Saint.V8 said:

Yep.... at time code 59 seconds, I turn it to the crank position - but nothing happens to prove that nothing will happen...and then when it goes back to pos 2 I can't do a crank again and have to take the key out and back in again, turn to 10deg, back to 0 then I can go to pos 2 and into crank for another go.....

Click to expand...

intriguing ..
OK so i took my spare key apart as the alarm part of it isn't working anyway to see what mine does.
I opened it using the working fob so the alarm is disabled and put my complete working key in and started it as usual to make sure my battery was ok as it has been standing for a week or two, all good.
I took the working key out and put the stripped down key in and tried to start it and the steering lock came off and it turned to crank but wouldn't start which was surprising.

i then tried locking the car with the complete key and unlocking again but this time i put the bare key in to the ignition and nothing happened, i tried turning the key a few times but it definitely wont turn without the transponder.

i seem to remember there is a time delay between taking the working key out and putting the non transponder key in.

holidaychicken said:

intriguing ..
OK so i took my spare key apart as the alarm part of it isn't working anyway to see what mine does.
I opened it using the working fob so the alarm is disabled and put my complete working key in and started it as usual to make sure my battery was ok as it has been standing for a week or two, all good.
I took the working key out and put the stripped down key in and tried to start it and the steering lock came off and it turned to crank but wouldn't start which was surprising.

i then tried locking the car with the complete key and unlocking again but this time i put the bare key in to the ignition and nothing happened, i tried turning the key a few times but it definitely wont turn without the transponder.

i seem to remember there is a time delay between taking the working key out and putting the non transponder key in.

Click to expand...

When I did my vid - I didn't use my working at all before I used the non-working key....still worked....you can hear the steering lock unlocking....

Then I use my working key to start the car....and then as can be heard when I remove the working key the steering lock engages again....then when using the non-working key, you can hear the steering lock coming off after the 10deg turn....

very strange, mine definitely wont turn if i open the car using the working fob, I tried turning backwards and forwards a few times. It will only work if i take out the working key and put the bare key in straight after but doesn't crank as you say.
When mine loses the EWS link it will crank but won't start.
I have learnt something though from the fact that i think if the transponder is not paired even the petrol doesn't crank the same as the TD6 wouldn't crank.
i'm just glad i have a faultmate - mate

More info here from system op manual