L322 - How to check for battery drain

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eightinavee said:
Things to consider;
1, Current drain on an L322 is 20-30mA,same as a P38.
2,They take 16-18 mins to shut down to sleep,during which time there are several surges as different ECU's do their thing.
3,taking out fuses one by one and replacing them with a plug in will just take forever as plugging the unit in will in most cases wake it all up again.
4,An ordinary current clamp cant measure accurately down low enough,for this kind of measurement you need something like this; K Clamp Series AC/DC, 3.9mm ID, Cat. II 300V - Chauvin Arnoux | Chauvin Arnoux But the only problem,(Besides its cost) is that the clamp will only go around a small wire.I get areound this by using a suitable lead with a croc clip on either end and carefully connecting it into the circuit without losing contact - helps on L322's and is even more help on P38's as you dont have to set windows/sunroof etc.
5, Common drain issues on L322's are the final stage resistor for the fan motors keeping the HEVAC ecu awake,headlight lowering ecu's being full of water,LPG ecu's,old phone kits,dead tracker batteries and water in just about any loom or other ecu.
Click to expand...

Cheers everyone!
eightinavee, I think mine had the resistor upgrade done on a recall before I got it, so guess that rules that one out. It has got a crappy (IMO) old Parrott bluetooth thing that lights up as sono as the key is in ignition, want ot kae it off tbh but no idea where to start :confused:
 
eightinavee wrote:
I have some factory data on P38 BECM's and nowhere does it mention sending one to sleep
Click to expand...

BECM:
To test for sleep mode:

Switch off interior lights (hold central button on light above centre of dash for several seconds)
Open Drivers door window and close door.
Insert Ignition Key and turn to position 2
Turn to off and leave the key in the barrel
Open the drivers door and the key-in message will be displayed on the instrument pack
The interior lights should still be off.....
Wait for 2 minutes (sometimes closer to 2 minutes 30 seconds) for the BeCM to go to sleep
If you can still see the Key-In message then the BeCM is awake.

If the message has gone, and you do something to wake the BeCM (try opening the bonnet), you'll get a bleep from the dash. This indicates that the BeCM has been awakened.

If you do this with an ammeter in series with the battery lead you'll see the current draw around 0.6 to 1A when the BeCM is awake and more like 0.05A when it's asleep.


BeCM - LandyWiki
 
mrblonde said:
Cheers everyone!
eightinavee, I think mine had the resistor upgrade done on a recall before I got it, so guess that rules that one out. It has got a crappy (IMO) old Parrott bluetooth thing that lights up as sono as the key is in ignition, want ot kae it off tbh but no idea where to start :confused:
Click to expand...

I have a parrot installed on my L322. (It never worked when i bought it but thats not the point lol) With mine, i could access the wires for it from the front right quater pannel. Its the triangular black plastic trim to the side of the steering wheel, The corners are slightly rounded. You can't miss it. You have to open the door though because when the door is closed, it sits almost flush against it.

Here's a pic beause im probably confusing you lol.

Use a flathead screwdriver to "gently" pry it off. It is only held on by plastic clips and will just ping off. It will feel like you will break it but you wont. (i hope lol)

Once you take it off you should be able to disconnect it. Thats if they installed yours the same way they did mine of course! :)

landyzone.png
 
dave4x4 said:
eightinavee wrote:


BECM:
To test for sleep mode:

Switch off interior lights (hold central button on light above centre of dash for several seconds)
Open Drivers door window and close door.
Insert Ignition Key and turn to position 2
Turn to off and leave the key in the barrel
Open the drivers door and the key-in message will be displayed on the instrument pack
The interior lights should still be off.....
Wait for 2 minutes (sometimes closer to 2 minutes 30 seconds) for the BeCM to go to sleep
If you can still see the Key-In message then the BeCM is awake.

If the message has gone, and you do something to wake the BeCM (try opening the bonnet), you'll get a bleep from the dash. This indicates that the BeCM has been awakened.

If you do this with an ammeter in series with the battery lead you'll see the current draw around 0.6 to 1A when the BeCM is awake and more like 0.05A when it's asleep.


BeCM - LandyWiki
Click to expand...
Sorry, I misunderstood your post - I thought you meant some kind of special proceedure to force it to shut down.What your post describes is just the normal way the BECM shuts down.BTW the BECM will happily go to sleep with the bonnet open,contrary to many internet instructions and You tube videos.
The info I have is a BECM SIDS - Systems Information Document which was created for LR dealer technical support to use in assisting dealer techs.
From memory the BECM will draw 1.1A when awake and awaiting further use,which steps down to about 650mA after a minute or so of inactivity then finally goes to sleep at 20-30mA.This is often at 2 mins 15 secs on a standard car with no extra crap on it.
The big problem is that battery drain on Both p38 and L322 RR's is always blamed on the BECM,(P38) and BCU,(L322) not going to sleep.In at least 50% of the ones I have worked on,(And its lots,into the hundreds) its aftermarket crap,usually badly fitted that is causing the drain,either taking power itself or keeping the car awake because its badly wired in.
 
Land Ho! said:
I have a parrot installed on my L322. (It never worked when i bought it but thats not the point lol) With mine, i could access the wires for it from the front right quater pannel. Its the triangular black plastic trim to the side of the steering wheel, The corners are slightly rounded. You can't miss it. You have to open the door though because when the door is closed, it sits almost flush against it.

Here's a pic beause im probably confusing you lol.

Use a flathead screwdriver to "gently" pry it off. It is only held on by plastic clips and will just ping off. It will feel like you will break it but you wont. (i hope lol)

Once you take it off you should be able to disconnect it. Thats if they installed yours the same way they did mine of course! :)

landyzone.png
Click to expand...


my old parrot kit was installed behind the center air vent underneath the dash - fitters installed them wherever they wanted, was a right bugger to rip out ! lol
 
If the HVAC is causing the problem there is a simple test to see if the fan in the control cluster is not shutting down.

On the heater control panel you will see a small vent about the size of a postage stamp, in there is a small cooling fan that should shut down when the car goes to sleep.

To test this get a small piece of tissue about the size of a fingernail and hold it against the vent and the air being sucked in will cause the tissue to stick to the vent.

Now lock the car and leave for about 30 mins checking the tissue is still in place, WITHOUT unlocking the car look through the window if the tissue is still in place then there is a problem with the HVAC unit not shutting down, if the tissue has dropped away from the vent then it has shut down.
 
2.0_hippo said:
my old parrot kit was installed behind the center air vent underneath the dash - fitters installed them wherever they wanted, was a right bugger to rip out ! lol
Click to expand...

I thought the access was "faily" good on the RR's. Simply because how crap they are put together. No screws for most of it. Just bits of plastic that ping off from clips.

I think the guy just wanted to turn his off though. Either unplug it if you can find it or simply cut the wires. Easier than pulling it all out and would solve his problem. ?
 
Right guys, not used the RR for 8 days, last used it last Monday was running for about 90 minutes without turning her off, didnt have anything on, no lights, radio, nothing. Parked her up at home, now, 8 days later she wont start again (key wont even turn in the ignition). Would the 90 minutes run last monday of charged the battery right up again? Or just enough to keep me going?
Would a long drive fully charge it up, or does it need to be charged? And if so, can it be done on the car as it weighs a tonne and is a pig to remove

Cheers again
 
mrblonde said:
Right guys, not used the RR for 8 days, last used it last Monday was running for about 90 minutes without turning her off, didnt have anything on, no lights, radio, nothing. Parked her up at home, now, 8 days later she wont start again (key wont even turn in the ignition). Would the 90 minutes run last monday of charged the battery right up again? Or just enough to keep me going?
Would a long drive fully charge it up, or does it need to be charged? And if so, can it be done on the car as it weighs a tonne and is a pig to remove

Cheers again
Click to expand...

I afraid that 90 minutes will no way recharge a low battery. Unfortunately the way alternators work, the charge rate drops off rapidly as the battery voltage rises. You would have to run the engine for 24 hours or so to get to about 90% charged. Either you have a bettery drain problem or your battery is shot after all your short runs have left it part charged, something that shortens battery life considerably.
 
Cheers Data

Im getting a charger Thursday so will charge the battery up for 24 hours see how it goes, hoping the short trips havent killed the battery as its only 14 months old :mad:

Thanks again mate
 
dave4x4
not got a towing socket im afraid... :mad:

Guys, will update you all tomorrow evening once Ive got the charger and plugged her into my baby
 
The only other thing i can think of apart from what i said earlier, is that if you are still having troubles after you get a new battery or fully charge your old one, is to check there are no faults comming up with your immobiliser and/or alarm system.

Hope you sort it mate.
 
Hi all,first off...absolutely cracking thread fella's.. been having the power drain issue now for 2 years, i only noticed it after i bought the car and had it for 6 weeks...its an 02 plate TD6...i put it into a garage and had the 06 front end conversion done, thought all was fine..then after 2 weeks started to get the power drain problem, although if im honest..it was getting lazy to start about 4 weeks after i bought it...anyway, done some checking..it went into a main dealer for the same issue 1 year before i bought it..all they did was fit a new battery...after contatcting the previous owner..he assured me there was no issue with the battery (as if he was going to say anything to the contrary)..so did some more searching on here..and had the HEVAC resister (i think its called that) replaced at RR, the problem got a whole lot better strait away...before new resister..battery would be dead after around 9 hrs...with new one...it would last around 15-16 hrs...anyway...with a little more checking...this is a HSE model...but has the VOGUE steering wheel, TV and SAT-NAV fitted, and also the new shape headlights etc...could my problem lie here ?...and what would be the the easiest way to check with a fuse tester ?..ie, Ampage, car sleeping and car awake.
 
right guys
been out this morning connected up my new charger, switched on the mains and nothing. Powerr light come on on the charger, in 'stand by' mode, but it wouldnt do anything when i pressed the 'mode' button to cycl thorugh to the correct chargig setting..... any ideasas im stumped???? :(
 
mrblonde said:
right guys
been out this morning connected up my new charger, switched on the mains and nothing. Powerr light come on on the charger, in 'stand by' mode, but it wouldnt do anything when i pressed the 'mode' button to cycl thorugh to the correct chargig setting..... any ideasas im stumped???? :(
Click to expand...

Charger u/s
Battery fully charged
Try Loading the battery for a short while and then connect charger.
Battery is u/s
I presume you have read the charger instructions carefully?:D
 
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