KV6 Cooling System Diagram

Hi All.
Have attached a Cooling system Diagram for Freelander1 KV6 engine. I used it when i had to replace my Themostat Unit . Hope it will be of help to someone who has to work on the KV6 cooling system and needs to bleed the unit.

I posted them pics up some time ago. If you want more info on yer Freelander then search on ere for the "rave disk" and download a free copy. LR's bible on how to fix yer FL. It's where the pic's came from.

Thanks Hippo will do.

Hi Both,
I will be using this diagram to help me restrict the flow in the top hose as the heater matrix is not getting warm let alone hot.
I have been trying to find the top hose t piece but can only find the complete set up at around £50.
I will let you know how I get on,
It may take a while as I am on nights .
thank you all Again
Dean

If yer heater matrix int getting hot then you have a problem. I int an eggspurt on cooling systems but I does know the heater should get hot. What’s the level of yer coolant like? What does the temp gauge on the dash read? Is the water pump pumping? Is yer heater matrix full of air or does the system need bleeding? Restricting the flow could cause you other problems later on.

dac5 said:

Hi Both
I will be using this diagram to help me restrict the flow in the top hose as the heater matrix is not getting warm let alone hot.
I have been trying to find the top hose t piece but can only find the complete set up at around £50.
I will let you know how I get on,
It may take a while as I am on nights .
thank you all Again
Dean

Click to expand...

My heater gets toasty hot but only after the cooling system had been bled, cooled, topped up then bled again!! I did it today after I changed the coolant!! The V6 is a pain to bleed and a symptom that it's not bled properly is a cold heater

Hippo,
The internal workings of the thermostat were removed quite some time ago Matrix flushed out recently, My mechanic thinks the water is bypassing the heater hose and taking the easier route through the larger bore hoses I will only try a temporary restriction to see what happens.
thanks again
Dean

dac5 said:

Hippo,
The internal workings of the thermostat were removed quite some time ago Matrix flushed out recently, My mechanic thinks the water is bypassing the heater hose and taking the easier route through the larger bore hoses I will only try a temporary restriction to see what happens.
thanks again
Dean

Click to expand...

If the guts have been removed from your stat then that is the problem The stat is a dual valve type that diverts the water through the heater and the oil coolers when the main rad valve is closed. Once the rad valve starts to open, the other valve progressively closes off the heater and oil coolers. By removing the valves the water will take the easiest flow path which I suspect is the radiator!! Hence no heater and possibly an overheated transmission??

How do you remove the guts on a kv6? It's a sealed unit.

The Mad Hat Man said:

How do you remove the guts on a kv6? It's a sealed unit.

Click to expand...

It is possible to bend all the valves, springs, capsule and carrier enough to get them out through the large holes, i'v used an empty stat on an engine that was going onto a dyno where only the radiator needed piping. It's of no use on a road car as all the water will take the easy route through the rad!!

I went for a drive today with the heat set to max, air flow from outside (3 degrees) and the fans oft. After 5 miles at 50mph the engine was easily up to temp so I put the heater on fan speed 1 and put me thermometer in the dash air vent. Temp was 58 to 60 degrees. :flame:

Flushed the matrix out again yesterday afternoon and started to bleed the system, Owing to time restraints I will do this a bit at a time.There seems to be a lot of air trapped but I will persist, also restricted the flow to the top hose this improved the heater warmth

dac5 said:

Flushed the matrix out again yesterday afternoon and started to bleed the system, Owing to time restraints I will do this a bit at a time.There seems to be a lot of air trapped but I will persist, also restricted the flow to the top hose this improved the heater warmth

Click to expand...

The only way i'v found to flush the system is with the bleed screw. I do it with the engine hot with the cap fitted as it seems to force the air out. Is a pain as you burn your hands and you have to keep stopping to refill the tank. Once all the air is gone, allow the engine to cool but make sure the tank is above the max mark as the water will be drawn in as it cools. Sometimes this needs done a few times to remove an air lock. I've found that revving the engine helps push the water out the thin pipes too.

Hopefully on Monday I will be able to machine and fit a restrictor for the top hose and finally bleed the system.
I agree you do burn your hands and in my case if you wear brown leather gloves you stain your finger tips brown Oh the joy's of motoring.
Dean