Knock Knock, Who's There?... Rattle

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RikWilson

New Member
Posts
563
Location
Merseyside
Morning all!

I am going on a green lane trip in the new year, and wanted to get a bit of advice in case I need to do something to my defender before the trip.
Its a 1998 defender 300tdi.

It may not actually be a fault, might just be a defender thing, as I have only had the car for a few months.

When the car is in neutral with the clutch released, I can hear a rattle. When I press the clutch, the rattle goes away. Sounds like something is turning. It does it in high and low range, and with the transfer box in neutral also.

My mechanic friend down the road said defenders rattle, and its normal. He told me that its because things are connected up when the car is in neutral inside the gearbox that are not connected when the clutch is depressed. I just wanted to run it by the experts to see if that is correct, or if not what the problem could be and how to fix it?

Also, if I take up drive a little harsh, I get a knock, and also a similar knock when changing gears and taking up the drive. If I drive very very smoothly, it does not happen. Any ideas what it could be?

I mentioned it to my mechanic friend that I had looked through the Haynes Manual, but he said what you need to remember is the Haynes manual is written on the basis of the car being new, and as the car isn't new there will be a few things like that that are not really to be concerned about. Its just the fact that the car is 12 years old.

So, I just wanted a bit of reassurance that is it something I should just not worry about, or is it something I should be concerned about and look at fixing it before my off road trip to Snowdonia.
:rolly:
 
has yo mekanik never heard of a clutch release bearing?

live with it until yu need to change the clutch.

Evidently not...

What about the knock? I have been under and checked for any play on the drive shafts but they seemed pretty tight.

Im planning on checking gearbox oil and all the fluids, and greasing all the nipples before I go, just to make sure everything is lubed up.

Think I may need to change my thermostat, because its not getting above the white on the temperature gauge, even with a tesco value car mat over the grill.
 
doesnt sound like release brg to me they squeel when you press the clutch sounds like clutch as you used to get when fitting new ones about 10 years ago,had it again since with h/duty clutches and ones with knackered clutch plate springs,do check oils as gear box isnt usually changed enough ,only hold just under 3 litre,often contaminated doesnt do brgs or any thing else inside any good ,same with t/box, for knock check a frame ball joint (top rear axle) all drive flanges ,diffs, props ,and you can remove pto cover and check input gear /mainshaft splines,often r380s have cross drilled input gear but not all
 
if the the dampener springs in centre of clutch plate lost some tension they will rattle at low revs until centripital force shuts em up as the revs increase.
 
Mine does that knock thing to.

I thought it was coming from somewhere round the back axle. It defo sounds like its behind me.

Tbh i wasn't too worried about it. But planned to have a look for any worn bushes before the next mot.
 
Mine does that knock thing to.

I thought it was coming from somewhere round the back axle. It defo sounds like its behind me.

Tbh i wasn't too worried about it. But planned to have a look for any worn bushes before the next mot.

When ye're checkin' yer bushes, also have a look at A-frame ball joint and drive flanges;)
 
if the the dampener springs in centre of clutch plate lost some tension they will rattle at low revs until centripital force shuts em up as the revs increase.

Your right, when I rev in neutral with clutch released it stops, but when revs go down again it stops rattling. Is it something to worry about or does it not really matter that much?
 
doesnt sound like release brg to me they squeel when you press the clutch sounds like clutch as you used to get when fitting new ones about 10 years ago,had it again since with h/duty clutches and ones with knackered clutch plate springs,do check oils as gear box isnt usually changed enough ,only hold just under 3 litre,often contaminated doesnt do brgs or any thing else inside any good ,same with t/box, for knock check a frame ball joint (top rear axle) all drive flanges ,diffs, props ,and you can remove pto cover and check input gear /mainshaft splines,often r380s have cross drilled input gear but not all

Would you say it is worth renewing the oil in the gearbox and transfer box oil before the run? Can the job be done on the drive from under the truck? Is it easy enough to do? Im starting to get used to working on the truck now and want to learn as much as I can to be able to work on it myself.

Are the knocks something to worry about?
 
Would you say it is worth renewing the oil in the gearbox and transfer box oil before the run? Can the job be done on the drive from under the truck? Is it easy enough to do? Im starting to get used to working on the truck now and want to learn as much as I can to be able to work on it myself.

Are the knocks something to worry about?


**** easy to change oils Haynes will show you where the drain plugs and filler plugs are make sure that you can open the filler plugs before you open the drain plugs. You don't wanna drain all the oils out and discover you can't get the filler plugs off.

when refilling either get an oil syringe from screwfix or toolstation etc. or get a 1ltr plastic bottle with a flexible plastic tubing ont the top and squeeze oil out of bottle when oil flows back out of filler plug you've filled the box.
 
get a 1ltr plastic bottle with a flexible plastic tubing ont the top and squeeze oil out of bottle

Any suggestions on what such a thing is called and/or where to buy one? The oil syringe I bought from ScrewFix was really leaky and I got way too much oil on the drive. I ditched it after a go on the rear diff, then wedged a small funnel into some plastic tubing I had laying around. It was a kludge, but cleaner than the syringe. I think the bottle w/ tubing is the way to go...but where to find it?
 
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Any suggestions on what such a thing is called and/or where to buy one? The oil syringe I bought from ScrewFix was really leaky and I got way too much oil on the drive. I ditched it after a go on the rear diff, then wedged a small funnel into some plastic tubing I had laying around. It was a kludge, but cleaner than the syringe. I think the bottle w/ tubing is the way to go...but where to find it?

There's this..

http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f41/handy-wee-tip-63809.html

or buy one of those garden sprayers..

gearboxfillerupperer.jpg


works a treat;)
 
Right, ive just been for quite a long drive, and would say that when the car has been driven for a while, it makes no noise when the car is in neutral with the clutch out. Sounds much better. Doesnt rattle at all. Could this be something to do with the gearbox/transfer box oil?

It seems to do it much more when the car is cold.
 
Right, ive just been for quite a long drive, and would say that when the car has been driven for a while, it makes no noise when the car is in neutral with the clutch out. Sounds much better. Doesnt rattle at all. Could this be something to do with the gearbox/transfer box oil?

It seems to do it much more when the car is cold.

Unlikely It would seem that you have a std disco noisy fooker rattle. As said before it'll be the release bearing. and once warmed up it'll go.
 
My 1996 300tdi has clutch spring rattle, nothing to worry about, had it 18 months now, done loads of green laning and days out in north wales, drive the clutch smoothly and don't ride the clutch.
Remember to fit wading plugs if you are wading and take them out after your trip. Enjoy your trip and above all, enjoy your truck!!
 
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