Killajoules Series 80" upgrade project

Bugger, that's why it took so long to get out

Your prop nuts will be 1/4 whitworth, still got my slightly cranked 1/4 whit just for Series prop nuts.

So Sunday Jai_landrover, stutab and I had a roadtrip to pick up Jai's latest ebay purchase



This evening I had a few hours with the box, it was my intention to split it appart and clean it all up and invetigate for wear.

I started by removing the tc bottom plate, bu to get at the internal nuts you have to remove the intermediate gear and shaft, this of course requires removing he handbrake.

Until recently my handbrake had been great, but topping up the tc resulted in this awful mess.



As I could not get the drum off I removed the drive flange still attached to be tapped out at a later date.



Finally I managed to split the box appart, however just as it was beginning to separate I realised that the hi-low lever was still holding them together so this too needed removing



Finally separation.



A bit more cleaning of the split bits tomorrow then I will start to open the main box up. I have a full set of gaskets an seals on order from Dingo's

Slowly moving forward despite a torrential downpour as I started!

New bits arrived at work during the week. A new 1st motion shaft and bearing.



Then of course I realised I had forgotten the oil guard, lock washer and nut. Fortunately they arrived from Paddocks yesterday.



I left the shaft in the freezer overnight as swambo was out at a cub scouts camp Then with the help of a soft hammer and a bit of wood I drifted the new bearing on



Then I fitted the new washer and nut.



The next job was to pop the bellhousing off and replace the 1st motion shaft. Unfortunatly I need some split pins so left the clutch release mechanism off.



I also got it all back on and tightened up then noticed the layshaft distance piece sitting on the side, so off came the bellhousing again!

Interestingy the Haynes says to torque the layshaft nut to 75 lbf but not sore how as there is no way at the moment of stopping the shafts from turning (though I did try using the old clutch plate)

Besides, what happens if you cannot get the split pin into the shaft?

Whilst it was still persisting it down I pulled the speedo housing off the transfer box ...



Cleaned it up and replaced the oil seal.

Looking good Joules!!

Hows the 300 auto coming along?

Getting there it's all pulled apart! Pistons out pot 3 has a nice score mark and melted Pistons. but we think we can polish it out. My collecting a spare 300 engine from Krams300 and a autobox at some point next week for spares. The gearbox is suspect because it smells Like it's full of ep80! plus when cranking it ****ed some oil out which we are yet to know where from.

If we can make one good engine out of the 2 and get it running the old man can try the auto with his hammy left leg. If he likes it we can rebuild the other engine as a better unit so it has a chance to be half decent. Then again this disco isn't worth it! The sills are erm. Well not very good!! Getting there!! I popped in and ended up covered in oil getting the dump off! All fun!!

Looks like the 80 will be sorted soon!!

Hope so, I bought a new bendix sleeve for the starter that needs to be fitted too.

Now I have som split pins I can start putting it all back together after first changing the front prop oil seal.

Helping Stu tomorrow so we will see what time is left

If you select two gears at once it will let you tighten the layshaft without the selector shafts detents in place or just by putting a screwdriver down the selector orifice to push into say 3rd and reverse.

OK tried ro lock 2 gears together, but the selectors were not having it.

Then lightbulb moment. the output gear clamped nicely into the workmate jaws. That allowed me to torque the nut up

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Which of course leads to the next problem. Properly torqued the splitpin hole is obscured by the castellations, so I backed it off slightly ...



... Added a split pin ...



... and then bolted in the clutch release unit.



Finally I fitted the dust seal. hoever I think fitting the clutch pin will be a bugger.



OK next problem. The front output transfer box oil seal. Am I over complicating this or do I have to separate somthing to get the old oil seal out?



Is this a metal bodied oil seal. or is there metal cover over the original oil seal?

Old metal and leather oil seal , comes out upwards in last pic.

Cheers.

Thats a job for tonight then.

I have been using a nice full gasket service kit from Dingo and replacing all seals as I go.

Picking up the Starter again at lunchtime.

Looking forward to getting SFF back on the road!

Blackburn is correct, its an original leather oil seal. Looks like it has never been replaced in the last 50 + years !



OK, slight moment of success followed by Muppetry!

In a hurry I used a square piece of timber in the vice to smoothly press th new seal in.

All went smoothly, then I decided it needed to move another mm. I succeded in over tightening it gnash gnarr .



A closer inspection of the flange shows a bit of pitting, but little or no scoring so I think I am happy to reuse this flange. Need to reinspect the rear one, however I have still to extract it from the handbrake drum.

Taking those leather seals out can be a pain had to do output seal in the street took some shifting I get out!!

Hope you had purchased extra's.
I always have spares to cover that eventuality.
Need a little bit of instant gasket around the outside of the new ones when you fit them and don't forget to lube the new seal lip and the pinion before you reassemble.

LOL I have now

Just ordered a new front flange plus lots of spare seals from Craddocks. and a Speedi-Sleeve to fix the much more worn rear output flange (a new one of those is £200+ from JC) as per recomendation from S1 club members.

I wont know what to do with my drip tray when I'm finished.

... well theres the engine leaks / diff pinions / swivels DOH :frusty:

If you need the flange taking down we have a lathe here. Is it unique to a series 1 flange then?? I have loads of series flanges!

Just thought, that as I was semi rebuilding the box I may as well fix the oil leaks rather than replace the seals onto worn parts.

If I had thought about it I would have let you guys have a look.

The front flange has some pitting so could possibly be turned as there are no grooves per-se. The rear flange on gloser inspection has a distinct step where the oil seal rides. ergo rather than £200 for a new flange or getting it sprayed and machined the speedi sleeve seems an excellent option.

Lovin the Son of Jai piccies mate.

A bit more detailed discussion here Jai

LRSOC - "Gearbox bearing intermittent howling" thread

I think I have found the true culprit!

Ironically the component I never initially looke closely at when I removed it. The transfer box intermediate shaft !

It would appear that despite filling the transfer box prior to the 300 mile round trip to the Nationals the seals allowed most of said oil to seep out.

It was only when I went to replace the oil seal on the intermdiate shaft I saw this:



Likewise, upon closer inspection it was obvious which of the bearings had been taking the load:



As you can see it looks like the shaft had been starting to get very warm from the discolouration too:



Well at least the primary box is back in. Just awaiting the front flange / oil seals / split pins / handbrake shoes and now of course a new shaft ad bearing. Fortunatly I cannot detect any wear within the intermediate gearitself.



I am replacing all oil seals as I go along so with luck this wont occur again for a long time.