Key sometimes won't turn in ignition

Occasionally (done it 3 times in 8 weeks) the key on my D2 won't turn in the ignition, i have to keep taking it in and out until eventually it will turn. Have tried both keys same thing happens. Is this a common problem with the barrel?

Mine does it as well a common problem if the steering lock is engaged so I now always leave the the steering wheel slightly off center. You can always lub the lock/key with craphite power.

steering lock was on this morning when it happened, can't recall if it was the twice, but noted and will keep lock off cheers

Happens on my 300 very occasionally when the steering lock is on and still applying pressure. I found that when it does happen, turn the steering wheel slightly and turn the key at the same time .. it sometimes needs the steering wheel turning as far as it can on the steering lock.

that used to happen to mine - I just sprayed the key with silicone lube and it's been alright since. I think that sometimes especially if you use your Landy in a dry dusty environment ( fat chance round here ) the ignition lock gets a bit dry.
this also worked on the rest of the locks the other day when me battery went flat - they havn't worked since I got the thing 3 years agao

When the ignition on my TD5 was totally stuck, I pulled the key blade off and then turned the blade with more force using pliers. This got me going. I took the ignition barrell off, ran some contact cleaner through it from the back, then once dry squirted some graphite powder (ebay) in. It's been as good as new for the last 4 months or so.

I got a spare 2nd hand ignition and key off ebay but haven't needed to use it.

Cheers, Andy

A short skoosh of Mr Sheen works wonders in sticky locks.

CharlesY

Any Silicone based spray polish will do a very good job.

This problem has started today for me big time. For over 2 hours nothing would turn the key. Tried WD40 and 3 in 1 spray oil. Eventually it turned, and I could move it very easily. But when I remove the key, then try to turn it again 30 seconds later it is stuck fast again?

I've seen mention of graphite powder. How easy is it to change to lock / take it out and give it a really good clean?

you can remove lock barrel ,replace or remove bent damaged brass keepers the less there are the less key is secure but it will work

Lock lube for motorcycles is a good solution.

Taking the lock apart is NOT a good idea unless you know what your doing, but it's your weekend...

With age the brass " wafers " that the key passes through inside the barrel become worn, causing them to stick out very slightly from the barrel body and stop it from turning.

The only way to cure this is to slightly file the prodtruding ones, with the key inserted, untill they are flush with the barrel.

I cleaned the whole thing with carb cleaner and then sanded down some pencil lead and put that in there to keep it free.

One things for sure. Once your key starts sticking in the barrel it will have to sorted sooner or later.

Del.

50 pence said:

I cleaned the whole thing with carb cleaner and then sanded down some pencil lead and put that in there to keep it free.


Del.

Click to expand...

Bad plan.
Pencil lead is a mix of CLAY and graphite. The clay is hard and very abrasive to brass. The grains of grit from the sandpaper will help to destroy the lock.

My Sheen spray polish is excellent in those sorts of locks

CharlesY said:

My Sheen spray polish is excellent in those sorts of locks

Click to expand...

see post #8

yu can buy a silicone based dry lubricant in all good motor accessory shops anorl

CharlesY said:

Bad plan.
Pencil lead is a mix of CLAY and graphite. The clay is hard and very abrasive to brass. The grains of grit from the sandpaper will help to destroy the lock.

My Sheen spray polish is excellent in those sorts of locks

Click to expand...

Its not a " bad plan " !.

Pencil lead " sanded " on some wet and dry paper has no " grains of grit " in it.

I think it is best to try and keep the internals of the barrel as dry as possible, as more abrasion and damage is caused by dust and dirt sticking to any substances " sqirted " in there.

The biggest cause of wear to the brass " wafers " is re-cut keys. The copying machine leaves tiny scores across the key blade which act like a file when pulling in the brass " wafers ".

Del.

If it keeps giving trouble a good locksmith should be able to tidy up the barrel and it shouldn't cost too much.It's quite easy to take the lock off the steering column but it can be quite tricky removing the barrel from the switch.There's a dowel to hold barrel in place and this needs to be removed for barrel to come out.I just drilled mine very carefully and just worked it gently out.
There are plenty of threads here giving good info on removal.
Good luck.

not on my disco - the barrel was just held in place with one screw....

On my 2002 D2, the barrel was held in, as described in previous post.

The " dowel " has a small head on it which the softer metal of the body is pressed over to stop the dowel from coming out.

I had to gently grind this away with fine pointed dremmel bit and " tease " the dowel out.

Del.

I posted earlier in this thread that I got my lock freed up. It failed again for a 2nd time so I took the barrel apart and right enough there were jammed brass wafers. I messed about with this for a while then decided to fit the 2nd hand ignition that I ordered the last time. I've now got 2 keys on the go but just happy that the ignition is ok, for the time being anyway.

Is a screw holding the barrel in place a genuine fitting? Is it a repair you did yourself? What model disco is it? Can I ask any more questions? Can I?