key code lock out

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daveb284

New Member
Posts
137
Location
Leeds
Hi Guys, can someone help please.
My 96 P38 2.5 DSE, has been stood for a couple of weeks.
Come to start and it has the inevitable flat battry.
After charging I came to resync the key as per normal, all I get on the display is key code lock out.
After waiting for that to disapear each time I try to resync I get the same message.
The fob seems to be ok, just will not sync, been trying for the last 2 days.
Im following the procedure listed on the forum, Turn key to left and hold down lock button for 5 secs, open door put key in ignition, turn on without starting. Remove key and close door, then try remote buttons.
As soon as I start the procedure key code lock out comes back on the dash. Now I'm stuck.
 
did mine a few days ago but i put the key in the door and locked it whilst pressing lock on the fob, dont think i did it for 5 seconds though, just till the key was turned. then i put the key in the ignition, didn't turn it on just took it back out then closed the door and tryed the fob. worked fine.
 
You need to input the EKA code with the key in the drivers door,if you dont have the EKA code you can get it from a LR dealer.(from the VIN)You may be asked to prove ownership of the car.
 
could always try disconnecting the battery for half a hour and then reconnect it, worth a try i suppose
 
Emergency Key Access ("EKA") Procedure
(Disarming Alarm & Starting Vehicle when Remote is Lost or Fails)

Overview and Instructions
The EKA procedure is provided as a back-up method of disarming the alarm and re-mobilizing the vehicle if all else fails. It uses a series of locks and unlocks with the key in the driver's door lock cylinder. From owner reports to date, this feature seems to be enabled on 1996 and later models in Europe, but not North America or Australia -- but see below for a generic EKA code procedure that works in North America. Iif you have more information on this please email me).

The manuals are vague and contradictory on when EKA might be necessary -- the shop manual says it is if you lock the vehicle with the remote handset and then you lose the remote or it fails. (This is understandable on models with passive immobilization which cannot be started without the remote, but the manuals are enigmatic on why this could happen on vehicles without passive immobilization). You still need the key part of the remote, or one of the spare mechanical keys supplied in later model years.

According to the manual, if the remote has failed or been lost and you try to open the door with just the mechanical key, the alarm will sound twice. (Of course, this does not make sense because you should be able to get into all models quite satisfactorily with just the mechanical key. Perhaps they are referring to situations when the remote has malfunctioned in a way that upsets the BeCM, or the alarm has been set off for some reason). If you then try to start the car, the message center will display "ENGINE DISABLED PRESS REMOTE OR USE KEY CODE". (This part makes sense on vehicles with passive immobilization, as described above, or perhaps if the alarm has been activated).

Make sure the doors, windows and bonnet/hood are closed, get out and lock the car again with the key. (Note: on 1996 and later models, you have to turn the key to the lock position four times for this step if the remote handset was not used to lock the vehicle). Then turn the key the required number of times according to the following sequence. (At each step the side lamps warning light on the dash will light to show it has recognized the input).

1. To enter the first digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
2. To enter the second digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.
3. To enter the third digit, turn the key the required number of times to the unlock position.
4. To enter the fourth digit, turn the key the required number of times to the lock position.

Turn the key to the unlock position to unlock the doors. The alarm will now be partially disarmed; if you try to open the hood the alarm will sound. After five incorrect attempts (3 for 1996 and later models) at this procedure, the BeCM goes into a 10 minute lockout mode (30 minutes for 1996 and later models), during which time the message center displays "KEY CODE LOCKOUT" and further attempts at EKA will not work.
The EKA code is supposed to be on your "security card" but I don't have one for my vehicle and Staffan Tjernstrom, who first alerted us to this information, mentions that getting it probably involves knowing your dealer very well, and maybe a few pints of good beer! Alex Rudd informs me that he has used the EKA method to recover from alarm problems, and that in the UK you can present or fax your owner's log book (or email a photo of it) to a Range Rover dealer to prove ownership, and they will give you the code.


taken from: Security and Alarm System Operation & Diagnosis on Range Rover 4.0/4.6/P38A

you will have to set all doors and windows first, including sunroof. also

YOU WILL HAVE TO LOCK 4 TIMES BEFORE ENTERING THE SEQUENCE OF YOUR CODE.

you will hear a beep from the alarm if it doent work on the first attempt try the sequence again but unlocking 4 times first!!!

now to get the code, phone your nearest main dealer and tell them you have just changed your battery and you need the EKA code, have your VIN number(it's in the windscreen) ready and also your cars logbook etc. if they don't give it you PM me and i'll send you the number for the place i got mine from. they may want to see the documents but if they are close enough its worth the trip or tell them you are stranded on the motorway or whatever.

hope this helps

Gav
 
When my battey went flat i got the key code lock out? when i treid to start the car. Turn out to be the bonnet/ when you put the battery on shut the bonnet before you turn the key.
 
yeah cav1 as in set all doors and windows!!! mine had a problem with the sill catch sticking and not making contact that with the micro switch that sends the signal to the ecu hence code not going in properly
 
Check connections on both sides. Behind the fuel cut off switch there is a white connector with 15 pins. These are often green and all eaten up. Same on the other side. If you fix these i dont think you will have this problem as often..
 
does this 15 pin plug have something to do with the srs/airbag fault lights and message? mines on and i have no idea why, the airbag hasnt bee set off, just wondering if its a simple fix?? would the light go out if the connection was made correctly? or is the airbag fubar'ed?
 
Hi Guys, sorted my prob out just. Talked to LAnd Rover and checked EKA code. Mine was correct. However you must start with all doors unlocked, and closed, inc bonnet. Mine were locked.
Also word of warning, Code info on LAnd Rovers data base is being taken off for older cars. The service lady told me not every P38 is now on the database.
 
won't this make the car easier to steal? as in just needing a key!!!

or worse still, hotwire????

i like the eka and all the security, evn if its a pain sometimes!!!
 
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