There was a company in canada or america that redesigned the v6 bolts for more meat to get better clamping force on liners.
I'm happy to go with MHM suggestions on the K series as he and several others have had years of them.
K series Expertise Can you sdvise
- Thread starter redrenger89
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There was a company in canada or america that redesigned the v6 bolts for more meat to get better clamping force on liners.
I'm happy to go with MHM suggestions on the K series as he and several others have had years of them.
redrenger89
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Thank you Fanatic.
All your points are relevant and have been noted, I thank you for them.
Yes I am aware of the possible flexing issues but am not likely to be able sort them out.
I believe this engine was originally designed as a 3 cylinder and possibly a 4 cylinder 1.4 and just as they did with V8 when they bored it to 4.6 caused a whole host of problems.
Plastic dowels were fitted to avoid the problems they had with the steel ones rusting and preventing removal of the head without damage. In retrospect probably not a good idea but at the time plastic manufacturers were producing new high temperature plastics that at the prototype stage worked fine but when in production failed miserably. Easy to find when your washing machine sump hose melted on a boil wash and dumps boiling water all over the the kitchen floor but not so easy when its inside an engine.
These dowels cause the gasket to slip I believe.
Then there was the "New" type of single piece head gasket with single line of sealant again seemed like a good idea at the time but failed miserably only to be replaced by another failure.
I thought that as long as the engine had not been subjected to excessive heat the new gasket and bolts had sorted that one out.
The stretch bolts were given a tolerance and if found to be within limits could be re-used. Not agood idea and should be replace with new genuine ones.
At the same time cooling issues were found too late for too many owners who had damaged engines. Another design flaw.
LR had so many returns they ran out of space to store them.
The coolant passages are also restrictive and are prone to air locks if not bled properly causing overheating and also blockage .
Water pump is inefficient at low revs when the car is waiting in a cue for example just the time when the engine needs efficient cooling.
Radiator had issues with design and caused further problems again plastic issues.
Leaks from coolant reservoir splitting another plastics issue.
Redesign of the cap and reservoir on Mk2 to try to solve coolant loss. Hopefully with better plastic.
No coolant level sensor again, rectified on Mk2 what a cock up when they new they had problems.
Designers are not always allowed to produce what they recommend but are driven by finance and market sales issues.
As I well know in our R&D dept at the time of the first Freelander we were being pushed to use plastic moldings instead of castings because of cost both in manufacture and distribution. Sometimes with disastrous results.
Our company manufactured the first in flight entertainment and had enormous problems with weight, electronics and mechanical issues that it almost stopped research but we persevered and when you watch your Video in flight it was British prototypes that proved it could be done then the yanks bought us out and said they did it. Sound familiar?
I know I can't redesign the engine but just want to repair it as best possible for my wife who loves the car.
So you van see I have been trying to find out as much information as I can
That said you have not mentioned any of the coolant mods that should sort out the temperature issues.
Have you tried any ?
If the car lasts another 28000 miles after the repair it will outlast me but at least I have tried.
I respect you knowledge but not the way you put them across
All your points are relevant and have been noted, I thank you for them.
Yes I am aware of the possible flexing issues but am not likely to be able sort them out.
I believe this engine was originally designed as a 3 cylinder and possibly a 4 cylinder 1.4 and just as they did with V8 when they bored it to 4.6 caused a whole host of problems.
Plastic dowels were fitted to avoid the problems they had with the steel ones rusting and preventing removal of the head without damage. In retrospect probably not a good idea but at the time plastic manufacturers were producing new high temperature plastics that at the prototype stage worked fine but when in production failed miserably. Easy to find when your washing machine sump hose melted on a boil wash and dumps boiling water all over the the kitchen floor but not so easy when its inside an engine.
These dowels cause the gasket to slip I believe.
Then there was the "New" type of single piece head gasket with single line of sealant again seemed like a good idea at the time but failed miserably only to be replaced by another failure.
I thought that as long as the engine had not been subjected to excessive heat the new gasket and bolts had sorted that one out.
The stretch bolts were given a tolerance and if found to be within limits could be re-used. Not agood idea and should be replace with new genuine ones.
At the same time cooling issues were found too late for too many owners who had damaged engines. Another design flaw.
LR had so many returns they ran out of space to store them.
The coolant passages are also restrictive and are prone to air locks if not bled properly causing overheating and also blockage .
Water pump is inefficient at low revs when the car is waiting in a cue for example just the time when the engine needs efficient cooling.
Radiator had issues with design and caused further problems again plastic issues.
Leaks from coolant reservoir splitting another plastics issue.
Redesign of the cap and reservoir on Mk2 to try to solve coolant loss. Hopefully with better plastic.
No coolant level sensor again, rectified on Mk2 what a cock up when they new they had problems.
Designers are not always allowed to produce what they recommend but are driven by finance and market sales issues.
As I well know in our R&D dept at the time of the first Freelander we were being pushed to use plastic moldings instead of castings because of cost both in manufacture and distribution. Sometimes with disastrous results.
Our company manufactured the first in flight entertainment and had enormous problems with weight, electronics and mechanical issues that it almost stopped research but we persevered and when you watch your Video in flight it was British prototypes that proved it could be done then the yanks bought us out and said they did it. Sound familiar?
I know I can't redesign the engine but just want to repair it as best possible for my wife who loves the car.
So you van see I have been trying to find out as much information as I can
That said you have not mentioned any of the coolant mods that should sort out the temperature issues.
Have you tried any ?
If the car lasts another 28000 miles after the repair it will outlast me but at least I have tried.
I respect you knowledge but not the way you put them across
don't take this the wrong way- your not being victimised by me and this is how I have always been. We are also discussing a topic which has been done to death.The K series freelanders are hated with good reason and MHM has made some suggestions and postings to try and improve reliability.
I have tried several things with the 1.8 k series and there are mgf/tf racers using standard gaskets-it's a combination of things on the 1.8
poor cooling
block rigidity issues
plastic dowels
cavitation/thermal shock etc etc -MHM and myself and others have repeatedly discussed with similar and different views.
The most reliable k series was the 1.1 sohc as found in the metro / rover 100 which from memory used loose steel dowels and generated less flex due to capacity and block rigidity.
Time the engine up and do not turn engine with head removed
check liners are not loose/tipped and liner height
check that head hasn't had liners eat into it.
get head checked and skimmed.
clean up immaculately block face and degrease with brake cleaner
new headset and bolts
Oil Rail- it can't hurt sump off
don't make the camshaft pulley mistake (peg location in pulleys and timing marks)
look at Pressure release thermostat , electric water pump and coolant level sensor (MHM design)
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redrenger89
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No probs
I thank you all for your help
End of thread
I thank you all for your help
End of thread
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op2:
storm99
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Is it the end of the month?
redrenger89
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The thread had been closed because
Because the car was bought by my wife to keep me occupied and take my mind off our chronically sick son .
Every day could his last, we live day today
I thought a forum with like minded people may be interested and like to pass on sensibly their experience, only few have been kind enough to do this and I thank them sincerely.
What I don't need is inane comments and in particular the aggression telling me what a fool I have been to buy one.
Or, we have gone over this time and time again. You may have but I have not and that is why I asked for help.
I was looking for a site similar to RangRover.net that shared experience and gave descriptive and pictorial information relating to the relevant faults and not be ridiculed.
The banter may be great fun for some of you, but if you live like we do you don't need it all you want to do is have a sensible chat to try to give at least a few moments to try to switch off from worry not increase it.
Because the car was bought by my wife to keep me occupied and take my mind off our chronically sick son .
Every day could his last, we live day today
I thought a forum with like minded people may be interested and like to pass on sensibly their experience, only few have been kind enough to do this and I thank them sincerely.
What I don't need is inane comments and in particular the aggression telling me what a fool I have been to buy one.
Or, we have gone over this time and time again. You may have but I have not and that is why I asked for help.
I was looking for a site similar to RangRover.net that shared experience and gave descriptive and pictorial information relating to the relevant faults and not be ridiculed.
The banter may be great fun for some of you, but if you live like we do you don't need it all you want to do is have a sensible chat to try to give at least a few moments to try to switch off from worry not increase it.
Last edited:
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the problem for yu is...................
it aint closed
it aint closed
chromiumuk
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What makes you think YOU can declare when the threads are closed on this here public forum matey?
Oh & if RangRover.net is so wonderful then maybe they would relish the challenge you have presented.
Me, I did my research & bought a Td4.
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Northern Irelander
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Step down comrades.......the OP has a point.
Stay out of the thread unless you are offering techie advice
Stay out of the thread unless you are offering techie advice
The thread had been closed because
Because the car was bought by my wife to keep me occupied and take my mind off our chronically sick son .
Every day could his last, we live day today
chromiumuk
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Fur Trapper
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Anguslives!
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Because the car was bought by my wife to keep me occupied and take my mind off our chronically sick son . Every day could his last, we live day today
Step down Fanny, or I'll have to drive down to your roundabout in my 1.8 which is working great by the way and slap you sensible.
Some people don't want the crap that comes with Landyzone, so if your sick of seeing the same old thing, why don't you try not reading it or being involved in anyway shape or form. Or leave Landy all together....
If someone asks a question it doesn't take much time to help if you don't have the time then don't reply at all, it's much nicer me thinks.
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why should established long term members have to leave, because a nooby gets all umpity about stuff? Thats just the way it is.
Fur Trapper
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Oh please please do try and slap me, as festival security I'd relish the challenge
But then again it's not worth the effort and you'd need breakdown cover and a dry day
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wet lettuce leaf anybody? :bolt:
