Just a quick one . . .

Does anyone know if I can raise the EAS with the nanocom without the engine running - my starter has seemingly self-destructed and won't turn it over, it would be much easier to remove if I can use the eas to lift the car (before blocking it) rather than buggering about with the jack . . .

TIA - Alastair

Should be possible. Don't run the compressor for more than five minutes without letting it cool though. Then go to select heights screen and lift car.

Just remember that it'll probably have the rear valves open so when you switch it on the arse is gonna shoot up and the front will do nothing.

Open/close the valves first

Might end up with a flat battery!

Well it certainly wasn't a quick one . . .

I finally got time to make a serious effort to get the starter off today, having tried a couple of times during the week to get it to lift with the nanocom.

I have discovered 3 things:-

1) Nanocom has to have the engine running to lift the car. Tried many different approaches and finally gave up and used the jack and wood blocks.

2) I hate the man who designed the manifold heat shields/starter top mounting bolt. Even going via the rave recommended way of using a long extension, it's very, very difficult to get the hex socket (specially purchased when I did the same job on the LSE - much easier) into a bolt you can't even see at the not-quite-right angle of approach.

3) My starter is well & truly F***ed - see pic.

However - it's now off and at least it wasn't the starter ring gear that gave up . . .

Alastair

Were the bolts both tight ? Last time I saw that, something had got loose and the starter was said to be sluggish, just before it jammed into the starter ring gear. I know it's a b to do, but make sure the bolts are tight. RAVE should have the torque.

If starter is that bad it might have blown the fuse. EAS runs off the same fuse.

When I took the starter off my diesel I had to go in from behind over the top of the gearbox because it was jammed in solid.

tnseal said:

Were the bolts both tight ? Last time I saw that, something had got loose and the starter was said to be sluggish, just before it jammed into the starter ring gear. I know it's a b to do, but make sure the bolts are tight. RAVE should have the torque.

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Yes, both were tight, the top very tight. I've never had any starting issues other than a dirty earth strap connection over a year ago - easily solved with a clean and tighten. Torque is 33ft/lbs.

This was sudden, no warning at all, just made a horrible graunching noise on the first turn of the key, I thought it may have been the bendix sticking on the shaft and tried a second time, same noise so stopped to preven any more damage. at least it was outside the house.

Grrr - fuse is OK - starter still turned on second try and EAS pump ran with nonocom.

Thanks for the responses anyway.

A

odyssey said:

1) Nanocom has to have the engine running to lift the car. Tried many different approaches and finally gave up and used the jack and wood blocks.

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I tried this yesterday and mine would lift the car with the engine off. I simply put the key to position 2 then clicked the send to high profile button on the Nanocom. It said the function needs the engine to be running but it did it anyway.

jacckk said:

I tried this yesterday and mine would lift the car with the engine off. I simply put the key to position 2 then clicked the send to high profile button on the Nanocom. It said the function needs the engine to be running but it did it anyway.

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Thanks jacckk - that's interesting. I tried it on position 2 , (doors & tailgate closed) ran the pump for 5 mins, then pressed send to high, the bar went across showing 'working', but no movement.

I'll try again later today and maybe try running the pump longer and just opening 1 valve to start with . . .

A

jacckk said:

I tried this yesterday and mine would lift the car with the engine off. I simply put the key to position 2 then clicked the send to high profile button on the Nanocom. It said the function needs the engine to be running but it did it anyway.

Click to expand...

It all works fine with the key in postion 2 as long as the battery is man enough using the EAS software, so no reason it should not be the same with Nanocom. You do need enough air pressure in the tank though.