JATCO update

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bukko

bukko

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My car has done 500-600 miles since changing the transmission fluid (a few times) so I thought I'd post an update and see if there are any new ideas.
Also I think I have a better feel for the problem now.

Prior to changing the fluid transitions were very lumpy.
I'm not sure if the problem is now better, or if maybe I've learned to compensate more.

The problem isn't there all the time, but there are definitely more bad periods than good. I reckon 70-80% bad.
Gear changes are all bad, although 2-3 seems to take slightly longer but I think this may have been happening before this problem arose.
Down changes are much worse than up changes, but I can get around these by slipping into neutral before slowing down and back into drive when I need it. Changing in and out of neutral is always silky smooth.
When the lumpiness is at its worst, the whole car pitches forward quite violently with a thump from the transmission. At their best, you wouldn't know there was a problem.

Any further suggestions gratefully received!
 
Couple of possibles , speed sensor , there are two that synchronize shaft speeds in box ,
thumps can be caused by partial engagement of drive and rev at same time , caused by or causing crack in flower pot shaped piston . Have you got any slip in 5th or F4 showing on annunciator panel , or just normal prnd or gear indications 4, 5 ? You dont want to be driving about of iths hard changing as you will cause more damage , you need to plug in diagnostic to get fault codes !!
 
tacr2man said:
Couple of possibles , speed sensor , there are two that synchronize shaft speeds in box ,
thumps can be caused by partial engagement of drive and rev at same time , caused by or causing crack in flower pot shaped piston . Have you got any slip in 5th or F4 showing on annunciator panel , or just normal prnd or gear indications 4, 5 ? You dont want to be driving about of iths hard changing as you will cause more damage , you need to plug in diagnostic to get fault codes !!
Click to expand...

Thanks - tempted to agree, but the thinking was to put some miles on it to get the gearbox solenoids cleaned (by the cleaning agent in the fluid).
There isn't any apparent slip in 4th or 5th, but I don't understand what you mean by "or just normal prnd or gear indications 4, 5 ?" (and what is an annunciator panel?)

MIL is not lit and nothing shown by my standard cheapo fault code reader. Would Testbook or Hawkeye show more?
 
bukko said:
Thanks - tempted to agree, but the thinking was to put some miles on it to get the gearbox solenoids cleaned (by the cleaning agent in the fluid).
There isn't any apparent slip in 4th or 5th, but I don't understand what you mean by "or just normal prnd or gear indications 4, 5 ?" (and what is an annunciator panel?)

MIL is not lit and nothing shown by my standard cheapo fault code reader. Would Testbook or Hawkeye show more?
Click to expand...

He is referring the dash display P park, R reverse N neutral and D drive. Basically is the display showing the correct gear instead of F4 which is a fault!
 
bukko said:
I have no idea - going to Google to find out what it is, then I'll have a look! :D
Click to expand...

It's known that they go soft. This allows the power unit to flop and wobble about. Now the power unit weighs in at around 300 Kgs so you will definitely feel it if it's rocking about uncontrolled!!
 
Ok, I've had a scramble about under the car and the only tie bar I can find that looks similar is attached to the sump/crank-case (whatever it's called).
That one feels pretty solid.

Is this the one or is my eyesight even worse than I thought?
I can't actually find one attached to the gearbox :(

I suspect it's one of these but I can't find the mofo on the car!

Otherwise I guess the line pressure duty solenoid could have gone intermittent - not really looking forward to changing that!
 
Last edited:
Another question:

Rave shows the gearbox as the same for the V6 and TD4, except for the electrics, ECU etc.
Does anyone know if there is a real difference, and if not why won't a TD4 manual box fit a KV6?

Just curious...
But I'd still really like to know where that tie bar is... :D
 
bukko said:
Another question:

Rave shows the gearbox as the same for the V6 and TD4, except for the electrics, ECU etc.
Does anyone know if there is a real difference, and if not why won't a TD4 manual box fit a KV6?

Just curious...
But I'd still really like to know where that tie bar is... :D
Click to expand...

The V6 auto box is unique to the V6 Freelander. The TD4 manual won't fit as the bell housing is different.
The tie bar is between the drivers side of the sump and subframe. The small bush at the sump end never fails. The large bush at the subframe end goes soft. This allows the engine to flop about uncontrolled.
With the box in park and handbrake off with the bonnet up. Rock the car forward and backwards on the Park pawl. If the bush is soft the engine will flop back and forward.
Alternatively use a screwdriver in the large bush housing lever the bush. If it moves easily, it's nackered.
 
Thanks for that. Tad stormy right now but I'll have another look when the flooding subsides.
I found Hippo's video on testing the solenoids as well, so I'll do that when I can see the car.
 
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