Jatco auto box....is this true...
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Thor1950
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Hippo
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From a merkin anorl.ound:
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Tempus Fugit
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To be honest I'd be wondering why the garage didn't pick up on this before. It may be the case the problem has only just surfaced, which would sort of be ok. But it's bad luck if that's the case after previously having solinoids changed. I would be annoyed if it was there previously or starting to become a problem.
An oil change on the Jatco auto (what you have) can solve all sorts of strange faults. If they changed the oil when you had the solenoids done then that rules that out.
The correct way to diagnose the auto is to check the oil level is correct (special way to do it but easy enough to do if you follow the correct method) and quality of oil is ok. Also measure resistances of the sensors. Even though the garage may have known the fix for the previous fault I would still hope they checked the sensors anyway. At the end of the day it doesn't take long to do. Make sure the barrel connectors close correctly and lock together, and don't slide open. The outer collar twists to lock. But it can still slide a bit if damaged. That may cause signal faults but it's an easy check. Also check the wiring harness to broken/snagged cables. Also check the earth wires which go to the earth studs just behind the passenger headlight is secure.
How to secure them when the fekers come apart
If it were mine I'd be thinking about the miles it's already done, the chance of the repair being the last problem to fix, the value of the car and the miles/life you expect from it. Then get it fixed or a recon or other based on your thoughts.
Doc's which have the tolerance info in them below. Theres a bit of discussion over which pin is common, 17 or 18. There may have been a change over the years. Yours could be wired slightly different to the doc's, like this: http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f9/jatco-drive-1-4-only-192505-4.html
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...jatco-solenoids-sensors-jf506e-jatco-auto.pdf
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f9/34671d1345328849-jatco-solenoids-sensors-jf506e.pdf
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f9/33348d1341534105-jatco-drive-1-4-only-94231.pdf
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attachments/f9/33347d1341534041-jatco-drive-1-4-only-jatco_5_speed.pdf
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/attac...o-drive-1-4-only-jf506e-supplement-part-1.pdf
There's 2 barrel connectors. 1 for sensor/solenoids and the other for the lever position. Pic's of connectors:
Pic's of the solenoids after the cover has been taken oft:
My V6 occasionally has a not very smooth change from 2 - 3 and then back down again. Had the oil change some 2k miles ago which, to be honest, did make a difference but it is still there. I understand that this change problem is probably down to the brake solenoid failing and that it is an easy enough change. However in the photo above which one is it, how do you get access to it and is it worth changing any of the others whilst the cover is off.
Thanks in anticipation.
teddywood1
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with auto boxes some have a rev limiter on and should not be tried to get above that or it can damage the auto box
Hippo
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Measuring the resistance of the solenoids as mentioned above will tell you if the coil is ok, but won't tell you if the solenoid is sticking or leaking, if they can stick/leak that is. Checking the resistance is always a good idea. It's free and can tell you if the solenoid coil is broken or out of spec, or if you have a broken/bad wiring connection. If the fault your eggsperiencing relates to that solenoid, then changing it is the next step. Not sure about changing all of them. Peeps sell them all together or as single solenoids. It depends on your own feeling and the age/use of the car. Some would say to change them whilst you're in there but others would say change them if and when they fail. The fault you have may be down to a failing sensor instead. Resistance check may confirm this.
How easy is it to replace a solenoid? Depends on your skills and if you've done this sort of thing before. Access is ok if you remove the oil cooler. I've never done one on a car. My pic's come from an old auto which has been removed from the vehicle. I guess you would need to:
Remove the rock guard.
Drain the auto oil into a clean well rinsed dry bucket and inspect.
Move the auto oil cooler to one side or disconnect for betterer access. Auto oil and coolant passes through it. I know the pipes to the auto can be undone and disconnected with a spanner. Keep the smaller rubber seals.
Undo all the bolts holding the solenoid cover on. Be careful not to round them oft. A few may need the lip on the solenoid cover bent away slightly so you can get set a socket on them. Be careful with it and you should be ok. You'll need to access the bolts from above and below.
Use a knife/screwdriver to separate the solenoid cover from the auto - be careful not to damage both of them. Some auto oil may drop out when the cover is removed.
Clean the old sealer oft the solenoid cover, the auto mating face and from within the bolt holes.
Change the solenoid and make sure it's seated correctly.
Clean the mating surface of oil/grease. Use sealer to seal the solenoid cover as you refit it, then put the screws back in, and tighten evenly to the correct torque.
Put the oil cooler back - reverse of whatever you did before and make sure it's ok.
Put roughly the same amount of auto oil in that came out.
Follow the correct procedure to level check the auto oil.
Take for a test drive (with yer breakdown membership card and credit card as proof of identity).
Tell us how you got on.
Part numbers:
jatcosolenoids SJ7iXHC
Auto and it's cooler - black cover is the solenoid cover
P9171139 HuQYElR
P9171140 fUFtT4w
Solenoid cover:
DSCN2965 pSrb0no
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Tempus Fugit
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Thank you.
Seems like a dirty weekend is on the cards.
Seems like a dirty weekend is on the cards.
nickcc
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Hippo
I must say that your how to photos and descriptions are the most informative that I've ever seen on any forum, thanks.
I must say that your how to photos and descriptions are the most informative that I've ever seen on any forum, thanks.
Hippo
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Thanks. I take pic's of everything I take apart so I can put it back together afterwards. I int no mechanic. I've been trying to fix my hippo for 8.5 years now. It's become a hobby. I used the main dealer for servicing and repair until we fell out. I try to do it all myself now if I can. The auto was bought as a toy to take apart to see what's inside after mine failed and I had a recon fitted. I always wondered what was inside. I won it cheap on e bay with no other bidders. I'll get round to taking it all apart hopefully. Nearly had it a year.
Arctic2
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I presume the same Auto box is in the R40 MGZT yes ?
Nodge68
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Yes, same box.
Arctic2
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Then this may be of some help.
The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - My ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) flush & fluid change - how to (the75andztclub.co.uk)
The 75 and ZT Owners Club Forums - View Single Post - My ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) flush & fluid change - how to (the75andztclub.co.uk)
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