is this k series block clean enough?

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Both sets of bolts were good quality. It just seemed the MLS gasket compresses more than the elastomer one after the initial 20Nm

The elastopolymer gasket has compression limiters to prevent over compression. Maybe the MLS gasket doesn't. Or maybe the MLS needs a higher initial pre-load to compress the gasket, before the angular torque is applied. The difference between un-stretched bolts and those at fitted stretch is less than 1.5mm.
 
Ive a mls gasket in the set and all the liners are at least level with the block.

What anaerobic sealant are people using for the cam ladder?

Thanks
chris

Loctite 574 ;)

Cheers
Simon

D'oh: shoulda read the whole thread first :oops:
 
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Collected the head yesterday and rebuilt it this morning. It required 10 thou skimming off.

Refitted block in engine bay this afternoon and like a prize turnip snagged the gearbox input shaft and turned the crank with it so tomorrow morning will see me dropping the sump and resealing the liners.

Oh well at least by the time im done ill know everything in this engine is 100%.

Is hylomar blue the only recommend sealant for the liners or will any non setting gasket sealant do?

Chris.
 
Collected the head yesterday and rebuilt it this morning. It required 10 thou skimming off.

Refitted block in engine bay this afternoon and like a prize turnip snagged the gearbox input shaft and turned the crank with it so tomorrow morning will see me dropping the sump and resealing the liners.

Been there, done that. I now always clamp the liners if I'm going to touch the crank/ flywheel. It's just to easy to turn the crank and lift a liner.

I know of a couple of engines that had the liners sealed with silicone sealant. I don't know how long they stayed water tight for. Presumably it would be OK but I couldn't guarantee it.
Blue Hylomar was used in the factory and is the recommended sealant.
 
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I've a mate who's a bit of a numpty took his head off to see what head gasket he should fit then bolted it back on again. He then took the engine out and is getting it soda blasted. I would be concerned he might have been messing about too much with the head either off or loose. How could he tell if a liner has come loose when he goes to fit the new gasket? I suspect he will ask me to help and I am concerned he will has water pishing out of it after bolting everything back together.
 
No idea if you can tell by looking but it didn't take me much longer than an hour to reseal all 4 liners.

Does anyone have a picture of where to apply sealant on the oil ladder? I went for a ring of loctite 574 around the 5 central holes the only picture i could find wasn't overly clear.

Head is now back on and torqued down and having looked at the oil ladder after I've the same amount of bolt protruding so im happy it's torqued down evenly, i went with 20nm and 4 rounds of 90 degrees in the end.

fingers crossed, short of any more mistakes it should be running this week.
 
thought i should update this, the freelander is now back running well, had a stuck tappet ticking away for the first 10 minutes after restart but other than that in respect to the running of the engine all is well, however as usual when you do one job a couple of other issues have popped up but ill make other threads for them

thanks
chris
 
thought i should update this, the freelander is now back running well, had a stuck tappet ticking away for the first 10 minutes after restart but other than that in respect to the running of the engine all is well, however as usual when you do one job a couple of other issues have popped up but ill make other threads for them

thanks
chris

Good news, glad to hear you got it going again. Now the paranoia starts and will continue for at least the next 3 months. You'll not be able to go a week without lifting the bonnet for a wee peek at the oil and coolant. :D
 
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