is this k series block clean enough?

after ignoring our freelander which snapped it's timing belt for long enough i managed to pick up a running dizzy type engine for £100. ive stripped the head off it to swap the headgasket and give it a bit of a refresh as i already had the parts ready to do the broken engine, ive cleaned both the head and block up using a mix of scotchbrite pads and brass brushes/drill attachments everything feels smooth with a fingernail, but as you will see the block still has some staining on it and i wondered if anyone has an opinion if it's clean enough as is or can suggest a way of removing the staining if it isn't.



the head will be going away for a skim in the morning, it measures flat over nearly all the surface bar one small part where i can nearly get a .002mm feeler gauge through (it won't pass the whole way through but will go under the straight edge and become trapped). im also not happy with the surface finish in certain areas, im not sure if the brass wire wheel has caused it or if it's just corrosion on the surface but my machine shop will check it for flatness and advise me anyway.





this afternoon i shall be removing the old block ready to hang this one in it's place.

thanks
chris

maybe stating the obvious, but I hope you havent turned the crank while the liners are un-clamped?

No i haven't dave, the pistons aren't in the proper position as i didn't use a cam locking tool and the cams moved as they do whilst removing the belt, ill realign the block once the head is bolted down with the cams removed this isn't the first k series ive done but ive not rebuilt an engine for probably 5 years

Thanks.

Personally, I'd reseal the liners. It's not difficult when you have the block on the bench.

Why do i need to? It's not been turned with the head off. But if i were to reseal them is it just a case of pulling them out applying sealant to the bases then replacing?

Those marks on the head's surface look like marks from your brass buffing wheel. With the head getting a skin it will be fine. The finish on the machined head does need to be quite fine/smooth. Carefully recheck the block face for any buffing wheel marks. If there are marks there too you may have to get the block face resurfaced as well.

The buffing wheel hasn't been near the block it's only had a small hand brass brush and scotchbrite pad on it, it feels and looks smooth

Looks clean enough to me.
Which head gasket you planning to use. My liners were level with the block so I used a Payne Elastomer. Not 100% sure if that was the right choice but from what I've read in MG-Rover.org unless the liners are even and proud by 3 thou it is the better option.
BTW it was a MLS gasket which failed on me. Don't know how many miles it lasted but they ain't the cure all some think.

thomp1983 said:

Why do i need to? It's not been turned with the head off. But if i were to reseal them is it just a case of pulling them out applying sealant to the bases then replacing?

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It's a belts and braces approach tbh. If I have the opportunity, I reseal the liner. If a liner has moved unseen, it will leak when the head goes back on. Obviously if this happens, it all has to come apart again.
It's not difficult to do. Simply mark the liners orientation with felt tip, unbolt the rod caps and remove the liner/ piston as an assembly. Keeping the pistons in the liners, clean the liner and block. Apply a thin bead of Hylomar Blue to the land and reinstall the liner/ piston. Seat the rod back onto the crank pin and torque the bolts. Repeat for all cylinders but make sure you clamp the liners before turning the crank.

Ive a mls gasket in the set and all the liners are at least level with the block.

What anaerobic sealant are people using for the cam ladder?

Thanks
chris

thomp1983 said:

Ive a mls gasket in the set and all the liners are at least level with the block.

What anaerobic sealant are people using for the cam ladder?

Thanks
chris

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If your liners are level with the block, or there is a variation in hight of two adjacent liners greater than 1-2 thou the a MLS gasket will generally fail very quickly. The latest Payen elastopolimer gasket is the way to go.
Loctite 574 is a suitable anaerobic sealant for the cam ladder and sump joint.

Do you have a part number for the payen gasket?

Thanks.

thomp1983 said:

Do you have a part number for the payen gasket?

Thanks.

Click to expand...

Payen BW750. It's got blue elastopolymer instead of red. These are generally good for the remaining life in the engine

Ive just ordered a bw750 and the loctite, could someone tell me the tightening method for the latest payen gasket, from memory it used to be something like torque each bolt to 20nm in a spiral sequence from the centre then tighten each bolt a further 180degs in sequence then a final round of 180degs in sequence

thomp1983 said:

Ive just ordered a bw750 and the loctite, could someone tell me the tightening method for the latest payen gasket, from memory it used to be something like torque each bolt to 20nm in a spiral sequence from the centre then tighten each bolt a further 180degs in sequence then a final round of 180degs in sequence

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Torque settings are the same as a standard gasket. I always split the 180° X 2 angle into 4 X 90°. I do this to minimise over compression in one spot.

Edit. Don't forget that the threads and under the bolt heads must be oiled

I found tightening the bolts on my MGF with a MLS gasket a very different experience to doing the Freelander with a Payne Elastomer. With the MLS I ended up doing an extra 90 or so deg as the bolts just didn't feel tight. With the Elastomer they felt far too tight to the point I thought they were going to break.

I must get myself a K Series. I feel like I'm missing out on all this engine rebuilding fun!

Alibro said:

I found tightening the bolts on my MGF with a MLS gasket a very different experience to doing the Freelander with a Payne Elastomer. With the MLS I ended up doing an extra 90 or so deg as the bolts just didn't feel tight. With the Elastomer they felt far too tight to the point I thought they were going to break.

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There supposed to feel tight
I've found that cheap so called stronger head bolts have a lower clamping load than correct standard bolts.

GrumpyGel said:

I must get myself a K Series. I feel like I'm missing out on all this engine rebuilding fun!

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You really are, it's great fun, especially when the channels the head bolts go down are so gunged up you can't get the bolts out without taking off the oil rail.

Nodge68 said:

There supposed to feel tight
I've found that cheap so called stronger head bolts have a lower clamping load than correct standard bolts.

Click to expand...

Both sets of bolts were good quality. It just seemed the MLS gasket compresses more than the elastomer one after the initial 20Nm

GrumpyGel said:

I must get myself a K Series. I feel like I'm missing out on all this engine rebuilding fun!

Click to expand...

true many hours of happy indulgence await you Grumpy!