Is my VCU due to be changed?

Apologies for going over old ground (I’m new to this site), I have recently bought a 2002 Freelander Td4 S with 106k on the clock. Previous owner insisted the VCU had been changed at 85k, externally the VCU looks cleaner than you would expect for a 20 year old one has 01 on the serial number so might be a reconditioned one. The prop has definitely been off at some point. Very tight reversing on full lock, like brakes are binding (it’s the only Freelander I’ve driven so not entirely sure how tight it should be). I’ve done the 1Wheel up test, definitely not seized as it moves quite well but took 1 min 5 seconds to move through 45 degrees with 8kg at 1.2m. I know there is some conflicting viewpoints but what the consensus on this sort of time? Grateful for any help
Thanks

Sounds tight, depends on type of refurb or, as you say may be original.

My rule of thumb is 1.2m bar, 5Kg, 1 minute indicates a change should be planned in.

Other key signs things are not right will be damage to vcu bearing rubbers and/or diff front rubber mount.

I'd be looking for a good replacement soon. Bell Engineering has good reviews and have used myself. They will post and credit your old one. They will also fit bearings as an extra.

As Andy said, it's tight and needs a refurbishment, ideally by Bell Engineering.
Also make sure it has identical tyres front and back, with the least worn on the rear.
The Freelander is hyper fussy about tyres, and so they need to be the same all round, or serous damage is done to the IRD, as well as shortening the life of the VCU.

8kg and 1 minute isn't tight - its very tight.

Regardless of whether its a recon or not, it needs to come off and be replaced.

As stated, matching tyres are hugely important to (same make and model required not just size).

Cheers for the heads up guys, beginning to think I was being bull******* about the VCU being done 20k miles ago (no paperwork supplied). Luckily I have use of another car so have not been driving it since I smelt a rat about the VCU. Other than the tightness when reversing on full lock I’ve not noticed any other issues apart from a dull rumbling after about 50mph, sounds like a worn bearing. Fingers crossed the rear diff and IRD have not been destroyed (will be a very short Landrover ownership if they are) I will take off the prop and VCU and give it a spin in 2WD, should hopefully diagnose if it’s the VCU bearings or a rear wheel bearing. Is there enough access to get the prop off by just propping the drivers side with axle stands or will I need to lift all four corners.
Cheers for the help!

I just drive them on to a 4" block of wood, which gives enough height to access the propshaft.
Keep in mind you'll need to rotate the propshaft, so you can access all the bolts. The 6 front bolts (2 will be uppermost) are more difficult that the 4 at the rear.
I can normally get to all 6 front bolts without turning the wheels, but it takes practice, and helps if you're a contortionist.

Support the VCU with a trolley jack, while you remove its 4 mounts, but mark floor around the brackets, so you can fit the replacements back in the same position.

Thanks
Nodge68
Will have a go at removing the prop shaft and VCU next weekend, will probably use a combination of blocks under the front wheels and axle stands at the rear, banging round underneath a car held up with 4 axle stands strikes the fear of god into me. Luckily it has 4 matching tyres with virtually no wear on them so fingers crossed, after shelling out for a recon VCU and new bearings I will be up running without any further major bills for a while!

Kneebee said:

Will have a go at removing the prop shaft and VCU next weekend,

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You'll need a set of E Torx set (E8 for the front bolts E12 IIRC for the rear), so if you don't have an E Torx set, order one now from Amazon.

Kneebee said:

after shelling out for a recon VCU and new bearings I will be up running without any further major bills for a while!

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Change the oil in the IRD too, as they are seldom changed at 75k. Make sure you can remove the filler plug, before the drain plug, as the plugs are made of a very soft material, which round easily. Its best to use a 6 sided socket for IRD plug removal.
The IRD takes about a litre of 75w90 GL5 fully synthetic gear oil.

Thanks for the advice, will get an E torx set ordered, will save me some time and choice words trying to make do with what I’ve got swimming around in the tool box.
Really appreciative of the advice given, hope I can reciprocate when I’ve spent a few weekends tinkering