Freelander 1 Another VCU Fred.

Hi All,
As per my signature below my FL1 has now done 150k, and has no previous service history. While in my ownership I’ve done:
Fluid changes - engine oil, gearbox, IRD, in Nov 22. Diff in Feb this year.
All filters - oil, pollen, PCV, air, and turbo breather I think it’s called. It’s a little white plastic thingy and lives behind the engine, took less than 10 seconds to replace. Nov 22.
Auxiliary belt and tensioners Jan this year.
All front suspension bushes and lower arms, March this year.
As I really like this motor and it’s relative simplicity (exception being the transmission) and would like to keep it running for as long as possible the time has come to focus on the VCU. I’ve seen recommendations for a recon one from Bell and a new one from here:
My man for the Jag recommends British Parts for the Jag, but not BritPart.
I’d replace the VCU bearings at the same time too.
Your recommendations between Bell and British Parts or other thoughts would be appreciated.
I’ve not got any of the usual symptoms apart from it’s lukewarm after a good few miles. I’ve just done 250 upto the Highlands of Scotland and it’s lukewarm.
Irrespective, it’s going to be changed for long term peace of mind.
Regards,
Michael.

A VCU from Bell Engineering will be reconditioned.
A VCU in a Britpart box will be made by GKN Driveline, and will be new.
GKN were the original supplier of VCUs to LR, so a Britpart one will be to the original specification, or at least it should be.

I also wonder how "new" new VCUs are and how long they have been sitting in warehouses.

Dunno if GKN still make them or whether its just stocks being used up.

Having said that, I don't suppose they deteriorate that quickly.

GrumpyGel said:

I also wonder how "new" new VCUs are and how long they have been sitting in warehouses.

Dunno if GKN still make them or whether its just stocks being used up.

Having said that, I don't suppose they deteriorate that quickly.

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I asked that exact question a few weeks back, when a forum member fitted a brand new VCU. It was dated a couple of years before purchase IIRC.

Hi,

The problem with VCU is that you never know when to change it.
Some says, if it gets too hot, so it 's problably knacked.
Some says to do a torque test.
Some says if the u joints don't last, the VCU is too stiff.

If you change change the VCU, put new VCU brackets, change all the U joints, and also don't forget the front diff support.
At every service, all should be checked and replaced if needed.

Regards

Alteredtech said:

Hi,

The problem with VCU is that you never know when to change it.
Some says, if it gets too hot, so it 's problably knacked.
Some says to do a torque test.
Some says if the u joints don't last, the VCU is too stiff.

If you change change the VCU, put new VCU brackets, change all the U joints, and also don't forget the front diff support.
At every service, all should be checked and replaced if needed.

Regards

Click to expand...

You're making this sound correct...

MaxTheDog1 said:

As I really like this motor and it’s relative simplicity (exception being the transmission).

Click to expand...

The car is simple, but so is the transmission. It is AWD - so there's got to be lots of props on the car and a couple of diffs (unless its an EV!), but it is quite simple really.

Its a bit like using LZ, its quite simple - but you don't know how the electronics in your device work to make it happen. Same with Freelander transmission, you don't need to know how the IRD, VCU or diff work. You just need to know that you must keep tyres matched and occasionally test the VCU. If bits fail, just swap them out.

The UJs very seldom need replacing. You start getting warnings when the diff front mount (banging) or VCU support bearings (whining) are failing. Presumably it is better to preempt more failing by checking them, but it is unlikely to cause serious issue if you go by the warnings. With a failing VCU on the other hand, it is to late to wait for warnings, it should be checked.

That's my opinion anyway.

Thanks to all for your contributions. Still away in the Highlands so will update more as and when. But it’ll be new tyres all round first then sort out the VCU with Bell Eng.
BTW, as it’s quite a trek from near York down to them, is changing it , bearings, diff bearings etc a job for any adept mechanic or does it require specific tool rot knowledge? I’ve got a very good car restorer a mile away who’s done the FL front suspension arms and bushes recently.
@Alteredtech : what part number is the front diff support?
Cheers,
M.

Any competent mechanic can do VCU work, as long as they understand how it works, and how to install a replacement.

Update.
Back home, tyres changed, now at least I’ve got 5 matching on board. I managed to offset the cost of them by selling the ‘old’ 5 - the tailgate one was brand new complete with the coloured lines, the rear axles has 6mm on, the fronts about 5. All were dated 2021.
As I don’t get any symptoms, definitely not “handbrake on feeling” when on hard lock I’ll monitor it. Hopefully my paranoia will go for a while now.
It reminds me of the Boxsters IMS ‘issue’ this, in fact that was one of the factors that swayed me to the Jag. My Jagman has done a few VCU’s so when the time comes that’s where I’ll go.
Thanks again to all who replied, it’s really appreciated, next job - fuel tank straps!
Michael.

Nodge68 said:

I asked that exact question a few weeks back, when a forum member fitted a brand new VCU. It was dated a couple of years before purchase IIRC.

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Sorry for not updating
it’s all good generally I was a bit worried when the date and deterioration was brought up but glad to say it’s as Free running as I can remember when I actually had a brand new 04 sport
the original vcu was excellent and only reason I changed it for the new one is i was extremely lucky in getting this one for £75 and already had a complete spare prop in bits so it was the simplest way of putting it back to a actual Land Rover when the berings had gone on the original prop
I haven’t done the wheel up test but can say full lock forwards and reverse is all acceptable very little tightening if anything at all
( I also have 2 second hand VCUs all fully functioning I have. used them both myself so if anyone is struggling I don’t mind donating one )

Hi,
I was thinking(!) the other day regarding the ‘even a difference of 5mm between the front and rear tyre diameters can cause problems’ for the VCU. If as the FL1 manual states for normal driving a tyre pressure of 30psi all round is adhered to, the added weight on the front axle of the engine/ gearbox should ‘squash’ for want of a technical term the front tyres more than the rear. So I went and checked my pressures and measured the diameters top to bottom and the fronts were 3mm less. I suppose I’ve answered my own query but if my logic is off please feel free to correct my ignorance.
M.

MaxTheDog1 said:

Hi,
I was thinking(!) the other day regarding the ‘even a difference of 5mm between the front and rear tyre diameters can cause problems’ for the VCU. If as the FL1 manual states for normal driving a tyre pressure of 30psi all round is adhered to, the added weight on the front axle of the engine/ gearbox should ‘squash’ for want of a technical term the front tyres more than the rear. So I went and checked my pressures and measured the diameters top to bottom and the fronts were 3mm less. I suppose I’ve answered my own query but if my logic is off please feel free to correct my ignorance.
M.

Click to expand...

This was covered by a member (was it @dfossil ?) putting speed sensors on front and back axles (props?) I believe to test for this.

He found that once moving the props turned at the same speeds. Pretty sure there is some physics on weight distribution of a moving object.

I’m sure there’s plenty of physics on that topic. Thanks.

MaxTheDog1 said:

I’m sure there’s plenty of physics on that topic. Thanks.

Click to expand...

Here's the post...

https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/vcus-the-sweet-spot.291258/page-7#post-3638628

Regarding the tyres. If the rear pressure is higher than the front, say 01bar, then certain the diameter of a rear wheel will be biger than a front. So, this way you can control the situation, even if the tyres are worn.
At least this is the way I do it.
Any thoughts?

best regards
Stefan