Is My ECU Dodgy?

I keep getting the same fault codes over and over on my Nanocom, even after I clear them. They are obviously incorrect. Truck runs fine except it will die at odd times. Must wait 20 minutes to restart. Have replaced fuel pump, wire loom, crank sensor recently. Mechanic says to get a new ECU to solve bad fault code problem (and engine dying problem). Not sure he knows what he is talking about since my TD5 is the only one he has ever seen. No sign of oil in the ECU. Any ideas on how to confirm ECU is truly bad?

what are the codes your getting,

johnlad said:

what are the codes your getting,

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^^^ that would help........the fact that u erase the codes with nanocom and they come back doesnt necesarily mean that they are incorrect or the ECU is faulty....it could be a current /"live" fault.

the fault code will come back as long as the fault is present... if u'll get rid of the fault then clear it from memory it will not come back

......... or your presumtion could be correct too ...tell us the codes if u want more help

The codes I get on the Nanocom over and over are:

9-05 turbo waste gate open load
9-06 Egr inlet throttle open load
10-03 tach open load
10-04 gearbox/abs drive open load
13-05 turbo waste gate short
13-06 egr inlet throttle short circuit
14-03 tach open load current
14-04 gearbox/abs drive open load

To me, these seem like they must be false codes but each time I clear them, they come right back.

The truck is a manual 5 speed

All your help in figuring this out is much appreciated.

not fitted items show as faults

usatd5 said:

The codes I get on the Nanocom over and over are:

9-05 turbo waste gate open load
9-06 Egr inlet throttle open load
10-03 tach open load
10-04 gearbox/abs drive open load
13-05 turbo waste gate short
13-06 egr inlet throttle short circuit
14-03 tach open load current
14-04 gearbox/abs drive open load

To me, these seem like they must be false codes but each time I clear them, they come right back.

The truck is a manual 5 speed

All your help in figuring this out is much appreciated.

Click to expand...

1. if the car is de-egr'd but the egr modulator is still plugged the faults related to EGR are not unnormal... unplug the modulator...if the EGR is still on u have a problem with it

2. those related to gearbox/abs might be some false reagings

3. the turbo wastegate fault is generated by the modulator...but this usually gived driveability issues(as u said engine diying) ...replace it it's not expensive

4. tachometer fault might be a bad contact

u said u've replaced the wire loom...which one? the injector loom or the main harness? ... cos if u replaced the injector loom it means there was oil at the ECU and if u replaced the engine harness and u used a wrong one(there are more types) these faults could be generated by that

IMO u better unplug the red plug of the ECU again and give it a contact spray then see if no water ingress at the BCU.SLABS ECU area

turbo faults are probably genuine faults that need looking at, could be stuck actuator arm, is it in a disco or fender

OK, the EGR has been removed and the tach is not hooked up so those faults make sense. I will get a new turbo modulator and check for a stuck waste gate. This is a Defender 110 and the injector wire loom was replaced because of potential problems....there was no sign of oil leaking. But I will clean ECU plug again. I don't understand gearbox/ abs fault though....any ideas?

that gearbox/abs fault is strange i admit...it seems a specific code for automatic... i thought it's a D2 first that's why i said BCU/SLABS ECU... i dunno much about defender but that code looks like it's generated by the ABS ECU rather than the ECM...eventually if u ger near a different tester(e.g. Hawkeye) read it with that too maybe it has other description and we'll get closer to the answer.

sounds like injector seals to me

Really? Injector seals? Did do the head gasket a year or so ago...but not sure I see the logic.

I had a fault with defender td5 losing power at odd times, then stalling, refusing to start for 10-20 minutes.

I found disconnecting then reconnecting battery got it going (rebooting a land rover! what's the world coming to?)

Turns out the immobiliser was at fault it eventually absolutely refused to be rebooted.

Changed it and problem disappeared