IRD Driveshaft Wobble

Some of you may have followed a thread or threads I have had about this wobble on acceleration which has foxed me and a mechanic I use somethimes. Changed lots of parts including both front driveshafs and lower engine mount etc.

Today I took the prop off and it was worse so went under for a really good probe. I found that the offside driveshaft has a lot of play in it where it enters the IRD - I believe this to be a problem in the IRD not the Driveshaft as it is new and aslo I can only see movement where it goes into the IRD. There is no oil leaking and no nasty noises.

Is this a bearing that can be replaced without a removing the IRD? Any advice appreciated.

Thanks

I think it can be replaced from the outside with pullers. Here's my ird off side bearing (v6 ird):


P3271820 m5XYUIU

Cheers Hippo / that looks promising indeed.

how are you going to get outer race out its a taper bearing,plus you need to ensure bearing coming out is the exact same size to within a few thou unless you want to reset shimming

OK does anyone know how this job can be done? I realy dont want to buy a new IRD. I will go back under the car on Monday to have another look but I seem to think that the bearing may be in a housing that can be removed.

Is this a very specialised job?

if the end housing unbolts then might be possible ,its a long time since i stripped one (couldnt get bits from normal suppliers so never bothered lr refused to release parts and info apparently)never use a punch to fit races it does damage you cant see on the outside but can feel in bearing,generally you check adjust shimming when swapping bearings and normally you do the other end as well,but you can get away with one , genuine bearings tend to be the same size and so dont usually effect shimming

I just dropped an email to Bell Engineering asking if they could advise - it is 7.30pm on a Bank Holiday Saturday and they replied - offering to talk me through the repair I need to do if I ring them on Tuesday. What fantastic guys - they are the best without doubt.

I am told the housing comes off and the bearing can be replaced - we will see how difficult it is next week.

Angeloc can you keep us informed as think i might be looking in that area for my vibration prob. Cheers Andy

cuza68 said:

Angeloc can you keep us informed as think i might be looking in that area for my vibration prob. Cheers Andy

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Yes absolutely - I will post up once I have spoken to Bell Engineering and then as I go about either fixing myself or getting done.

I spoke to Ken from Bell Engineering today - what a fantastic guy - so knowledgeable and so helpful. He talked me through the job so I will give it a go myself.

First problem is that Land Rover no longer supply the bearing and only supply a complete housing at a bit over £200 plus VAT !!!!

Another call to Ken and he gave me a part number and phone numbers - 2 calls later and a bearing is on the way as well as an oil seal. All for around £40 - happy days.

So I will tackle the job once the parts arrive and I am guaranteed good weather - updates and some photos will follow.

Bearing arrived just waiting for oil seal and a break from the rain.

Make sure you take note of the bearing number.

It's a Taper Bearing number - LM603049/11

It's not a Land Rover one as they no longer supply just the bearing.

Good news as well - when I ordered the oil seal I was told it was £18 - a lot I thought but hey ho it must be special - well today a box arrived and it was not an oil seal but a VCU hanger and bearing - they got it wrong! Seal is £4 and will get here tomorrow hopefully - refund on the wrong part.

NOTE : These parts did not come from Bell who have been brilliant with advice and help - and they don't need to - Great Company

The removal of the IRD end case is a very easy job indeed. Hoping it fixes it for you Angel!

Vissie said:

The removal of the IRD end case is a very easy job indeed. Hoping it fixes it for you Angel!

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I was going to do it today but chickened out as I have to do it on axle stands outside the house.

Am I right in thinking I just need to take the bottom ball joint off and pop the shaft out from the IRD - swing it out of the way?

Do you know if I have to drop the sub frame to get it out?

I booked in with my friendly garage for next Friday but may have a go myself - my guy would be on with that.

Well ive never done the bearing change, but im assuming when you spoke to Bell they told you to remove the end casing and then its just a standard bearing change procedure? I've never had to change one, inner driveshaft cv joint wear is a far more common fault for vibration on acceleration.


For the end casing i'd think you could just leave the subframe up, prop on if you wanted. I'd guess you could just go, undertray off, subframe bracket to sump (the one under the driveshaft), undo the 18mm horizontal bolt and 2x15mm vertical bolts that hold the o/s wishbone on, pry the forward bush out and take the driveshaft out the ird (leaving the 21mm nut on the hub). Then top ird mount, drain the ird, ring of bolts that hold the end casing on, tap it off. You will need some sealant to seal the end casing back on with, the Land Rover one is STC50550, but any type will do.


As i say though , end casings ive removed, but never had to change the ird end case bearing.

You'll be able to see what you need to do once its on axle stands. With air tools and a bit of practice, those end casings can be off in 10 minutes.

Cheers for that Vissie. I thought I had to take bottom ball joint off but it sounds easier doing the wishbone
- am I likely to have problems with rusted on bolts needing heat and melting bushes?

Re the sealant - what kind of sealant is best - silicone gasket or something else? I have used blue stuff in the past.

when I changed the oil seal in the IRD for the driveshaft I found it easiest to pop the ball joint and pull driveshaft out of IRD that way..I did a little how to not long ago.
does the taper bearing pull out from internal or external?... either way take loads of pics so we can comment if you come a cropper mate

The bearing comes out from inside the housing so it has to be taken off to do the job.

It doesn't look to difficult a that's stopping me is being underneath the car when it's only on axle stands - I think I will put a big jack with a block of wood under the sump as well. If I go up on ramps and then jack the offside up to take ramp out I will have plenty of room. I just have dig out my old spare jack.

Well in the end I had to get my local guy to do the job of changing the taper bearing - he did it but guess what - wobble is still there!!!!!!

This is really bugging me now. I am beginning to think I need to sell it on.