Freelander 1 intermittant start prob. 2.0 l series

freelander is a 1998 2.0 l series diesel.

its got some sort of starting issue I thought it was just a dodgy connection to the solenoid but alas it has returned.

here is what I have checked-

12 volts to the main starter connection and it turns over if I short the solenoid out.

2 yellow relays behind the batteries coils are intact, resistance is the same.

took the ignition switch off the steering column

now when you turn the key it seems to flicker 12 volts on and off very quickly on the starter soloniod so thinking dodgy connection?

took the ignition switch apart it seems ok bit of oxide about. I cleaned the starting contact with a thin bit of emery.

I have attached the wiring diagram I am using but I can figure out which wires need shorted out on the brown ignition switch connector block to see if the switch is knackered inside.

just incase, the immobiliser light is on solid when I am trying to turn it over. I take it this is normal?

any ideas?

If the imobiliser light is on - then it won't let the engine start!!!
I presume the L Series is the same as the 1.8, the earth for the starter relay is via the imobiliser ECU - if the car is imobilsed the the ECU won't ground that earth and hence no feed to the starter relay.
You may just need to change the battery in the key fob.

so to confirm is the immob light is on solid the car is immobilised?

Yes

as above - swap the battery in the fob. But get a decent brand in there, otherwise you'll just be changing it in a few months again

ok boys cheers!

new battery in fob pressed the buttons done nothing, probably seen better days.

locked and unlocked the drivers door the immobiliser flashes quickly when the drivers door is locked and slowly when it is unlocked.

still on solid when the key is turned.

ordered a new switch maybe that will cure it.

Try pressing the remote 5 times in quick session - This resets the fob to the car

so the switch didn't fix it,

pressed the buttons on the fob 5 times it didn't seem to do much.

also something silly is going on with the alarm I opened the bonnet and the alarm went off, I locked the driver door and it went off repeated it and it went off again.

ive disconnected the battery for now as this alarm going off fault wasnt there beginning of the week.


what are my options here lads?

These problems usually are a pain to sort out. There's another recent thread where the remote pickup in the dash had come lose.
When the immobiliser on my Disco activated itself I called the AA out and they reset it.

pop open the keyfob again, and check the 3 solder points that hold the battery clip in place, and the solder points on the buttons. These often crack, and need reflowing (just heat them up with a soldering iron, and a tiny blob of solder)

yea I had a good look at the fob under a magnifier it dosent look too shabby actually. I will redo the larger solder joints anyway.

would it be worth buying a new immobilizer unit?

seems pretty cheap worth a punt?

If you do, make sure you get the fob that goes with it.

Immobiliser unit and fobs are matched - unless you go and pay at the dealer to have them synchronised iirc.

ok cool,

so if I get the new immobilizer I cant sync the fob to it by pressing it 5 times as the fella above suggested?

You may have to get the matching engine ECU as well - I seem to remember they are coded together.

Gel's correct, immo, fobs, and ECU, are a matched set unfortunately. Quite costly to get re-matched too (unless you know someone with a T4 machine to recode it for beer tokens)

Sorry, forgot about that bit!

Yeah, fobs are matched to the remote receiver, then the receiver sends a four digit (?) serial code to the ecu, all of which are matched.
So, immobiliser, ECU and fobs to do the change.

so new immobilizer unit is out too much bread. jeep only cost me £200 but i've done fair bit of work in welding it up and getting it MOT ready which is booked for the 19th.

ive been reading a little about emergency key access so think this is my next step to see if it clears the immobilizer and lets me start her?

anyone any thoughts i'm all ears.

[USER=1367]@turbo[/USER] said:

jeep only cost me £200.

Click to expand...

Wait, I thought you had a freelander? lol

EKA code can be had relatively cheap from people with the right kit - wasn't aware the hippo had one, but does make sense as other Rovers of the same age use the EKA system too

I think you need to get back to the basics of what's wrong.
If the alarm is set and the bonnet is opened, the alarm will go off - so in that respect the system is working.
I believe securing the car via the remote is some form of 'master' lock, that can't be unset by the key, so in that respect the system is working.
So it does look like the system is working but has been master locked by the remote and now the security ECU is not getting a signal from the remote to release the master lock. I believe this master lock is described in the handbook, it may say a way of unsetting it without the remote. Try Google, there may also be some info out there as well. I believe I have also seen an outfit who you can courier your security ECU to and they will reset it, code a new fob to it and send them both back to you. I recall their prices were pretty good. However, if the problem is in the IR pickup (in the dash housing?) that won't fix your problem.
Plugging in diagnostics tools into cars can monitor the network messages, eg they can see when a window open button is pressed, the radio is turned on etc. I'm wondering if they can detect an incoming IR fob message? It might be a good way of analysing the problem. I highly doubt a cheaper tool would be able to do this and I also doubt that a Hawkeye could do it - as DD says, you're probably looking at a LR stealer/indie Rover/LR specialist with with Textbook T4 kit. The 90's L Series may not have all this functionality anyway - but you could contact a garage with T4 to see what they say.