Insulation??!

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Gogso1

Member
Posts
11
Location
Falkirk
Hi, I’ve just recently joined, and am new to this Land Rover lark....

I’m looking for some advice, and I’m sure the answer is already on here but......

......can you point me in the direction of the best place to buy rolls of self adhesive closed cell insulation, for lining the back of my hardtop??

I was hovering over 10m rolls for £76 on eBay, but then got cold feet (fire retardant, rip off??)....

Thanks for any help, it’s much appreciated.
 
if you change your mind on the egg box and then decide to fit head lining it's a nightmare getting the egg box peeled off if you've used spray adhesive to stick it on.... from experience. Personally I went for noise killer stuck to each room section and added head lining.

Spent last Christmas paper mache'ing some 2nd hand head lining I picked up, Then fitted stretch fabric (far easier than I expected).

Far better than sticking foam to the roof which won't help to damp any low pitch rumbles.
 
Noise Killer looks great, but expensive. Does this look acceptable??
https://rover.ebay.com/rover/0/0/0?mpre=https://www.ebay.co.uk/ulk/itm/312786126290

Would be for roof, sides, and under lino floor...
That’s the kind of stuff I used. It doesn’t make a huge difference, it does cut down on some of the tinyness and harmonics, but you still get all the outside noises, and when used on the bulkhead, you still get all the engine and gearbox noises. However, the combination of closed cell foam, headlining, side panels and rubber matting does cut down some noise, but it’s expensive. The rubber matting alone, a td5 rubber matting system for the rear, a Wright off road rubber matting system in the front and a td5 bulkhead insulation, plus underbonet insulation and a transmission blanket, comes in at almost a grand for the full gamut of sound proofing, even then it’s no Discovery.
 
Ooft, that’s not happening!!

It’s as much for making it a bit less cold for camping as it is for noise. Maybe it’s because I’m new and it’s still a novelty, but I kinda like all the noise!
 
if you change your mind on the egg box and then decide to fit head lining it's a nightmare getting the egg box peeled off if you've used spray adhesive to stick it on.... from experience. Personally I went for noise killer stuck to each room section and added head lining.

Spent last Christmas paper mache'ing some 2nd hand head lining I picked up, Then fitted stretch fabric (far easier than I expected).

Far better than sticking foam to the roof which won't help to damp any low pitch rumbles.

I fitted my headlining back over the foam. Easy to do
 
Get some flash band on the doors and footwells, best £10 you'll have spent. Once that's out of the way then get some thermal insulation. The are a few key issues (do some searches on the self build camper sites, some good info) :
- condensation - this will occure at the cold boundary which is the inside face of the metal. To stop that you have to glue the insualtion to the metal really well so it behaves like one thing. This is why some is sprayed on. But if its not perfect it will trap water and turn inot a soggy mess and corrode.
- you can have an airgap between the insulatition and the metal so it gets wet but dries out. This needs some ventilation - gaps, vents, grills.
- you can make it removeable - that's how I've done it. This lets me make mods and run wires behind it.
- if its all glued in its very hard if you need to do a repair.
- from expreince i would say none of the bits I've used glue on have stayed stuck (unless of course I wanted to get it off...), but with the removable panels I take them out and re-glue the layers.
- if you do for the airgap then make sure everything is waterproof. This may be as simple as a plastic sheet behind the insulation to keep it dry.
My panels for the roof and sides are made of 4mm corrugated plastic floor protector with a layer of foil/bubble insulation glued on then carpet. They are 100 waterproof, stiff enough to hold their shape and work well. The tub is the foil glued to the tub then carpet. The headlining is 3 panels - a centre flat one and two curved sides. They are held up by ally strips screwed through the roof under the cappings.
https://www.toolstation.com/ybs-general-purpose-thermawrap-insulation/p16779
B&Q do the 2mm, Selco the 4mm
https://www.wickes.co.uk/Proplex-Bl...VxbHtCh2KcwChEAQYASABEgLzF_D_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds
For the sides I made up the panels then cut the windows out so I can push the window bit back in at night.
 
I've not read all the posts, so if someone has said this previously I apologise for repeating it !!
If you are going to glue anything to the underside of the roof, use an adhesive that won't deteriorate when the roof gets hot in the summer. Budget adhesives will dry out and the matting will just fall off.
 
I've been experimenting with adhesives to hold some curtain track to the pop up roof. It gets hot and damp. After a lot of failures Pink Grip held, much to my suprise.
 
Making progress!!
 

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I've not read all the posts, so if someone has said this previously I apologise for repeating it !!
If you are going to glue anything to the underside of the roof, use an adhesive that won't deteriorate when the roof gets hot in the summer. Budget adhesives will dry out and the matting will just fall off.
Oh and don't use quick drying contact adhesive either.

Dad used it in a RRC and you'd ****ing die when the sun heated the inside of the car.. :confused:
 
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