Instrument panel not working on d2

Hi just unplugged the plug to the in tank fuel pump and no change. I’m going to try swapping the clocks out.

LNB_Landscapes said:

Hi just unplugged the plug to the in tank fuel pump and no change. I’m going to try swapping the clocks out.

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That would be a good move as the IP to be ruled out cos as long as you have voltage across pins 18 -19 or C0230 it means that the IP has feed.

Am I correct thinking I need a cluster with lower miles then mine so I can increase the mileage?

I am trying to remember & I think it was a thin one on the right of the multi plug. The guys had cut it & it was easy to re join after the new unit was fitted. If your dash is cutting out after a few seconds of turning on the ignition you could unplug the lot & see if it stays on for a minute or two. The engine will not start as the lift pump will not be powered so just ignition.

LNB_Landscapes said:

Am I correct thinking I need a cluster with lower miles then mine so I can increase the mileage?

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Yes

reo24 said:

I am trying to remember & I think it was a thin one on the right of the multi plug. The guys had cut it & it was easy to re join after the new unit was fitted. If your dash is cutting out after a few seconds of turning on the ignition you could unplug the lot & see if it stays on for a minute or two. The engine will not start as the lift pump will not be powered so just ignition.

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I see that you have already done that. The dash replacement will mean that the mileometer will just flash (before going feint).

So I’ve just popped another cluster in and still nothing. Would you say BCU next step ?

I've just read your posts again & your symptoms are not the same as mine. You say that you have no normal lights at all on key turn whereas I DID get lights - for a few seconds at least.
That would point to a power supply problem rather than a software issue.
This might be the time to find an auto electrician!

At last the problem is fixed. The cure...... replacement fuse box and cluster. Not sure what has happened but some how it’s blown the fuse box and the cluster inside.

How did you realise that both were shot and not just one of them though? ...cos as you measured the fusebox delivered the feed

Because the clocks didn’t work until after swapping the fuse box out which was corroded

So it seems that it was the fusebox not the instrument pack not both then

No I tried the old clocks after the fuse box had been replaced and still nothing I then put the new clocks back in and they worked after the changed fuse box

That was a strange one then... very uncommon

It was defiantly a scratch head moment, only explanation is it’s a landrover

LNB_Landscapes said:

It was defiantly a scratch head moment, only explanation is it’s a landrover

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I have been searching for this answer for ages. Thought it bizzare but tried it. pulled the connector off the top of the fuel tank and the power came back on on the dash. plugged the connector back in and power stayed on, everything works!. thanks for all the inputs my problem is solved. still spent many hours trying to sort it though

Hi there. So I have the same issue. Turn ignition on and only the SRS light, nothing else. No speedo, no fuel guage, no temp guage, nada. I've done the checks on the 17/18 and 19 pins on the cluster plug and have a solid 12.4V. I also have continuity from 17/18 to the body. I even pulled the plug off the fuel pump to ensure it was not interfering as someone else had found. Still nothing. Is there anything else I can check before looking for a new instrument cluster?

I should also add that from time to time, when I activate the indicators the little orange light on the button at top left of the instrument cluster flashes (not sure what the button is for but kinda looks like a fog lamp or something)