Instrument panel not working on d2

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Socky77 said:
Hi mate
I was being a prat
I have put my probe in now and I have a love supply which stays when they go out so I think it must be the clocks
Click to expand...
Hi mate.
I have checked the voltage in again at pin 19 and that's perfect, I have also checked the earth path and that shows about 0.6 on my meter. I replaced the clocks but the problem still exists. Could it be because they need syncing with nanocom as the old set of clocks had also been replaced and not been synced by the previous owner and I don't even know why they had them done.
 
Just confirm that with voltmeter hooked across 18 -19(light green wire) you have voltage and no lights with ignition on, if yes make a bridge with paperclip across pins 17-18 and measure again across 18(bridged with 17) and 19.... if it is voltage and no lights it's very strange cos at least the IP should make the warning lights self test but it's not a programming thing cos there are warnings which are not subject of programming like the ABS or MIL .... i'll have to make some research then cos maybe the diagram in RAVE is wrong... i'll come back later tonight

if you have voltage push/jiggle that connector cos it might not make contact to the IP's pins, watch in it with magnifier to make sure one of pins 17-18-19 is not enlarged or something
 
Last edited:
sierrafery said:
Just confirm that with voltmeter hooked across 18 -19(light green wire) you have voltage and no lights with ignition on, if yes make a bridge with paperclip across pins 17-18 and measure again across 18(bridged with 17) and 19.... if it is voltage and no lights it's very strange cos at least the IP should make the warning lights self test but it's not a programming thing cos there are warnings which are not subject of programming like the ABS or MIL .... i'll have to make some research then cos maybe the diagram in RAVE is wrong... i'll come back later tonight

if you have voltage push/jiggle that connector cos it might not make contact to the IP's pins, watch in it with magnifier to make sure one of pins 17-18-19 is not enlarged or something
Click to expand...
I have just done what you said and all the voltages are correct. I looked in the plug and moved connection 18 about and it flickers on and off so I suspect a bad connection in there. Can I buy that pug or new connections
 
Uffff :eek:...at least you found the problem, it's a very rare thing it's the first time i see that there at the IP so sorry that you had to buy a cluster even though without the IP being ruled out we would not have found this issue... you can re-sell it no probs, i presume you could replace those suspect pins in the connector not necessary to replace it all, i dont know exactly what type of connector is that, search the web for videos with "re-pin automotive connector" maybe you can see something similar or at least you'll know how to remove that pin then make a pic of it and i'll help you find something similar or maybe you can bodge it somehow to make good contact
 
sierrafery said:
Uffff :eek:...at least you found the problem, it's a very rare thing it's the first time i see that there at the IP so sorry that you had to buy a cluster even though without the IP being ruled out we would not have found this issue... you can re-sell it no probs, i presume you could replace those suspect pins in the connector not necessary to replace it all, i dont know exactly what type of connector is that, search the web for videos with "re-pin automotive connector" maybe you can see something similar or at least you'll know how to remove that pin then make a pic of it and i'll help you find something similar or maybe you can bodge it somehow to make good contact
Click to expand...
I will have a look at it tonight mate, thanks so much for your help. I cluster did not cost much so will soon get my money back on that. I am guessing I will still need to get the mileage synced by landrover when its working though?
 
No special need for main dealer, find somebody with nanocom near you willing to help though if the IP's mileage is higher than what's in the BCU you'll be stuck with that cos the only way to sync is upwards ... maybe you are lucky to have one of the IP's with lower mileage than the vehicle's mileage which is stored in the BCU and sync that to not have issues with MOT
 
Hi reo24
I have not actually fixed the problem but found that under the dash there is a connector which has 2 plugs going into it, when I disconnect one of them it all works except the fuel gauge. I will try to send you a picture later so you can see what I have done mate
 
Hi, I’ve just got the exact same symptoms. My td5 decided to start knocking so I larked it up for 1 month. The mechanic picked the car up and told me the dash lights or gauges wouldn’t work. I’ve since had the engine replaced and totally forgot about the gauges not working until I collected the car today. Any one have any ideas ?
 
Hi. Have you actually read this whole thread prior of resurrecting it and checked out everything mentioned? ...cos it contains enough instructions what other ideas you need without those being ruled out? :confused:
 
Hi, yes I’ve checked the points mentioned above. I will probably wait til morning to double check though. I’m not sure it’s a loose wire as mine is complexity dead apart from the SRS light and the cluster illuminates when the lights are put on
 
The SRS is on a different circuit than the others, you have to be 100% sure that the feed from F27 and the earth are reaching the IP as shown in some previous post
 
Ok that explains why it works still..... I will have a good check. Again in the morning of all the stuff you’ve mentioned previously. Hopefully a quick fix as I’m Germany bound Friday
 
LNB_Landscapes said:
Ok that explains why it works still..... I will have a good check. Again in the morning of all the stuff you’ve mentioned previously. Hopefully a quick fix as I’m Germany bound Friday
Click to expand...
Yes, I did sort the problem. A vehicle electrician near me fiddled for a couple of weeks & found that cutting the wire to the fuel gauge sender in the tank stopped the dash cutting out when the engine was started. I had it back & replaced the in-tank pump unit, reconnected the cut wire & voila! all working fine!
The float & rheostat part had come unclipped from the pump body but why a problem with this simple component would make the whole dash go do-lally is beyond me!
I looked everywhere else first...
 
Morning, so I’ve been out and doubled checked what you stated above sierrafery.

The earth head to the 2 black earths in the right side instrument plug are fine no breaks.

Wires 18-19 on that same plug are reading 11.77 v steady when ignition is on. Thanks in advance for any advice
 
Did you read my last post? I had the same symptoms & had Reman test the module (no fault) checked the earths, fuse box, dash connectors & even bought another dash in case the fault was internal. In fact I did everything other members suggested on this thread but without success.
Why a faulty fuel gauge sender unit would cause this issue is beyond me but for the sake of lifting the rear load carpet & disconnecting a wire it is worth a look.
 
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