Disco 2 Insa turbo tyres

So I bought a discovery TD5 to go green laning, mods so far are snorkel and winch bumper.
I have some Insa Turbo special track tyres that I would like to fit.
My question is what will I need to do for them to fit?
I have a 2” lift block kit to fit but will I need to do more?

Depends how big they are.

Oh yeah that would help I guess.
235 85 16

Those tyres are about 2.5"-3" taller than standard so you won't have to lift it much if at all and I don't think the width will be much of an issue. Just check the clearance between the top of the tyre and wheel arch/suspension.

I did wonder that, I’ll put the lift blocks in and see what clearance it looks like I have.
Anyone have similar tyres?

Those tyres would probably foul a standard bumper without a lift, but with a winch bumper you may be OK.
If you must lift it and are planning on going off road then you would be better off doing it properly with +2" springs and shocks, together with extended brake lines. Just putting in blocks extends the standard shocks by 2" and reduces the amount of axle articulation remaining.

I run the same size Special Tracks on our TD5 D2 for RTV trials. They will fit with a 2 inch lift and a winch bumper.
However, unless you use spacers on the front or modular wheels with increased offset, you'll lose a lot of steering lock due to the larger diameter.
If you use spacers or increased offset wheels, you'll probably need to cut / grind the steering lock stops shorter to regain as much lock as possible.
On ours, the "square" shape of the tyre tread does cause the edges of the tyre to contact the plastic wheel arch liner at the top when at full articulation or full suspension bump occasionally (might be less of a problem if you have fixed roll bars rather than ACE, as there'll be less wheel movement).
With spacers / modulars on the rear the tyre tread outer edges / sidewalls will be very close / may contact the wheel arch lip at full articulation - causing tyre damage or wheel arch bending depending on tolerances. I use standard offset D2 commercial steel wheels at the rear to ensure I don't get this problem & because it improves the turning circle. Other D2 drivers typically don't.

As said, with a 2 inch lift, you should use extended brake hoses & pull out more of the ABS sensor cables from the grommets in the front inner wing or mtg clips at the rear.

Great info thank you,
So other than the steering lock I should be ok with the lift kit, at least that’ll get me moving, after that I can modify whatever else needs to be done, what size spacers would you suggest, and will I need extended wheel bolts?

What wheels have you got currently, are they suitable for 235 wide tyres ? If not, it might be cheaper to buy new wheels than spacers - although you only need spacers for the front.
You won't need extended studs & you won't find much if any choice of spacer width - as far as I'm aware there are only 30mm wide spacers - with the wheels studs & extra nuts included (the standard studs are used to fasten the spacer to the hub & the studs in the spacer retain the wheel).
Your questions suggest minimal experience with these type of modifications - so make sure you tighten the spacers correctly OR you might lose a wheel ).
DON't buy unbranded spacers, you won't have any idea whether the alumimium alloy is strong enough to do the job.
What are you planning to do ref the rear dampers if you fit 2 inch lift blocks to either the airbags or existing spring mounts ?
Standard rear dampers will reach full extension 2 inches sooner than designed (as mentioned in an earlier post), reducing your off road articulation to a lot less than standard.

Standard wheels with 235 on at the moment just not 85 profile.
Had plenty of experience driving them but not modifying the suspension, don’t want to spend a fortune in it just yet but want better tyres hence the special tracks

Another question is would any 235 85 16 mud tyre fit with lift blocks? And if not what would be the largest tyre that I could fit?

Should do - but beware the really extreme mud tyres eg Insa Turbo Extreme K2 & similar from other makes - as the tread is likely to be wider at the full tyre diameter , whereas more road biased / less extreme tyres are usually wider somewhere lower in the sidewall.

As an aside, are you aware that with the lift blocks on the front, your front propshaft is likely to contact the front gearbox crossmember at full droop ? With the alternative of +2 inch lift springs & longer dampers, you might not get the same problem, but it will depend on free length of the dampers. Contact can damage the propshaft rubber boot (cut it in 2 !) or maybe the destroy the grease nipple if left in place. You can reduce / eliminate the problem with spacers for the cross member mtg.
Lifting will also accelerate wear of the prop UJs.

To be honest I’m only using it for green laning just need a small amount of extra clearance, one of the guys I go with has the 2 inch blocks with 235 85 16 tyres and it works better, his aren’t special tracks though hence my original question, I’m happy enough to sell the special tracks and buy some less extreme tyres if it’ll save me a lot of hassle.
Full lift kit is my next purchase after the tyres just need to get it ready for the weekend hence the blocks. After the weekend it’ll be a while before I use it again so can save up for the shocks and springs.

Fit them,and use a jack to simulate full articulations and see if they foul.
If they don’t you’ve saved block money towards your lift kit.