injectors stuck in the block

concerned, help advice needed.
Can I remove diesel injectors while engine warm? Symptoms are dampness around injectors. Got new washers went to fit and injector is in there solid. Moves but will not lift out. Will the engine being warm cause this?

What engine?

If they move your almost there.
Move em left to right, I used an adjustable, whilst giving some upward pressure and they will eventually come loose, probably just some carbon holding em in.
My Isuzu ones in me classic were a fekkin cuuuunt!
Think I eventually had to lever them out
If you removing them why not get em re conned?

Answer you Q, warm should help you, when I done our merc injectors the engine was warmish
they slipped out lovely.

12 j 2.5 n/a dude. Thanks for the reply. Got a bit worried cos they are recon and only been in about eight months. Will try and wiggle them out with it warm.

Yeah give that a go.
should be ok, they are moving so they should silde out soon.
Clean all the filth from around them so as nowt drops back into the hole.
Don't want and metal or a stone getting into the hole

They normally stick in the bores because of stiff carbon build up and yes you can remove them whilst the engine is warm, it may even help. The most conventional way to remove stuck injectors is with a slide hammer and the appropriate nut. Not everyone has one of these, I'll appreciate that, so there is an alternative method which i've used once and it works great. A lot of people will tell you not to do it, but it really wont do any harm. Simply remove the injector pipes and slacken off the two nuts on either side of the injector so that it has a little clearance to move up and down on the studs. Now, remove the wire to your stop solenoid on the fuel injection pump ad turn the engine over a couple of times. The compression in the bores should push the injectors straight out to the limit of the nuts holding them in place on the studs. Then simply remove the nuts and slide them out. Easy as pie.

-Pos

pos said:

They normally stick in the bores because of stiff carbon build up and yes you can remove them whilst the engine is warm, it may even help. The most conventional way to remove stuck injectors is with a slide hammer and the appropriate nut. Not everyone has one of these, I'll appreciate that, so there is an alternative method which i've used once and it works great. A lot of people will tell you not to do it, but it really wont do any harm. Simply remove the injector pipes and slacken off the two nuts on either side of the injector so that it has a little clearance to move up and down on the studs. Now, remove the wire to your stop solenoid on the fuel injection pump ad turn the engine over a couple of times. The compression in the bores should push the injectors straight out to the limit of the nuts holding them in place on the studs. Then simply remove the nuts and slide them out. Easy as pie.

-Pos

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that is a fekkin brilliant idea!!
I will remember that one.
Nice one pos

cheers guys, out and done though still a bit of weeping, nothing like it was. Used a wrecking bar/ crow bar sort of a thing in the end for levering upwards. Lots of carbon in there and lots of sunburn on the shoulders and that was only number one cylinder, three and four to go.

Vagrent said:

that is a fekkin brilliant idea!!
I will remember that one.
Nice one pos

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No problemo Just make sure that nut(s) that hold the injector in place aren't right at the end of the thread on the stud otherwise it'll go flying. It only needs about 6mm clearance to 'pop' it out and then you'll be able to slide it straight out.

-Pos

parts wanted said:

cheers guys, out and done though still a bit of weeping, nothing like it was. Used a wrecking bar/ crow bar sort of a thing in the end for levering upwards. Lots of carbon in there and lots of sunburn on the shoulders and that was only number one cylinder, three and four to go.

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Are you sure that its weeping from the bottom around the pintle nozzle and not the centre where the top of the injector body is screwed onto the bottom of the injector body? Make sure that when you re-fit the copper washers, the pointy-outy dimple is pointing up towards the injector, not down into the head.

-Pos

yes it is definitely coming upwards, put the washers in as you said with raised bit upwards tightened it down, even re anodised the big copper washer half way up.

Pos, I have rechecked and you may have a point cos the studs are getting wet at an equal rate, as if diesel is tracking down. What does this mean?

parts wanted said:

Pos, I have rechecked and you may have a point cos the studs are getting wet at an equal rate, as if diesel is tracking down. What does this mean?

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I do remember having a similar problem with my old N/A, especially with regards to oil weeping from the studs and I think it may have been totally unrelated to the injectors. They always seemed to look damp even though the injectors were as dry as a bone. I am not too sure as to whether or not the studs are 'wet' or 'dry'. By this, I mean that in some cases the threaded hole that the studs are screwed into does not have an end, but is rather just literally an open threaded hole which might finnish in an oil way or a push rod hole for example, with the stud being slightly tapered to prevent it from screwing continuously into the hole. Whether or not this is the case with the N/A I do not know, but you could soon find out if you tried removing one of the studs and seeing whether or not the bottom end is coated in engine oil. Even sticking a screw driver into the hole should give you some indication as to whether or not it is 'open' or 'closed'.

As for the injector, I think the best way forward would be to dry it right off, including the surrounding area in the cylinder head and then see how far up the injector the diesel starts appearing. Considering you've had them reconditioned it could well be the tiniest speck of carbon / soot buildup inside two mating faces of the injector body that are causing the leak, they really do need to be that clean. The tiniest raised spot will soon encourage a leak when you consider the enormity of the pressure that is being pumped through them.

Try and find out exactly where the diesel / oil is leaking from and then you can take it from there. If its definitely the injector and it's not something that you can fix yourself, i.e. a copper washer or an injection pipe olive for example, I'd see if the company who reconned them will crack them open and take another look.

Do you have any photos?

-Pos

I don,t have the computer genius to do photos, but the dampness is around the part of the injector that disappears into the block. Now its all cleaned off with gunk, washed and dried I can see that it is this part of the injector that is getting wet with the stud as well and as the engine is ticking over I can see the dampness spreading. I know it is not coming from the rocker as that is all clean and dry above the injectors. I think I have three poor injectors.

parts wanted said:

I don,t have the computer genius to do photos, but the dampness is around the part of the injector that disappears into the block. Now its all cleaned off with gunk, washed and dried I can see that it is this part of the injector that is getting wet with the stud as well and as the engine is ticking over I can see the dampness spreading. I know it is not coming from the rocker as that is all clean and dry above the injectors. I think I have three poor injectors.

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I think that you're absolutely spot on there. Did the injectors come with a 12 month warranty following the recon? Generally speaking, if the copper washers aren't sealing you'll be able to hear a very audible spitting / taping sound coming from around the body of the injector as compression escapes from the cylinder. If you can't hear this, then it's more than likely the actual construction of the injector its self, a problem which the diesel company should take care of. As you can see in the photo below, there are at least three places where the injector body can leak:

1) The copper washer between the large hexagonal top section and the central section. Is this the washer that you annealed yourself?

2) The threaded section where the nozzle holder is screwed onto the central section.

3) The bottom of the nozzle holder where the actual pintle nozzle is exposed.



I'd put my money on it being the nozzle holder, this part relies on carbon build up between the opening of the holder and the body of the nozzle to seal absolutely efficiently. If the company who reconditioned the injectors didn't remove every single trace of carbon deposits from the nozzle holder, it will weep diesel.

I hope that's the answer to your problem!

-Pos

Cheers Pos, the washer I annealed is the one before the pintel washer, did not ask for a guarantee just exchanged and went on my way. Will have to sort them out after my France trip as skint untill then.