Immobiliser problem

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siwil1

New Member
Posts
3
Location
essex
Hi Guys.

Please be gentle I'm a newbie in here !

I have a 1998 Freelander xei with the beloved 1.8k series engine in it.

I seem to be having a bit of a problem with the central locking / immobiliser. The battery is fine no beeping on entry and was changed a few months ago. But it does not seem to be disarming the immobiliser and all I seem to get when the key is turned is the sound of the fuel pump priming and then nothing, no turn over. If you press the key fob again sometimes you hear the car unlock again and the immobiliser resets but this can take quite a few attempts.

Is their any way to by pass the immobiliser, I'm not even bothered about locking it as all its used for is dog and mud duties just need it to start ok as swmbo uses it regularly.

Any help much appreciated
 
Hi Guys.


Is their any way to by pass the immobiliser?

Any help much appreciated

Go to the nearest ruffty-tuffty housing scheme and ask a 13 year old? ;)

Alternatively find an auto electrician - as if there was an easy way to by-pass it, it would defeat the purpose of having it.

Bit like what my Dad said when his burglar alarm went off, and he couldn't remember the code - "Can't you just switch it off? :confused:

Singvogel. :cool:
 
I believe the engine will still spin on the starter but won't start!! Also if the imobilizer is active I think it will sound some sort of chime inside the car??
 
Hi Guys.

Please be gentle I'm a newbie in here !

I have a 1998 Freelander xei with the beloved 1.8k series engine in it.

I seem to be having a bit of a problem with the central locking / immobiliser. The battery is fine no beeping on entry and was changed a few months ago. But it does not seem to be disarming the immobiliser and all I seem to get when the key is turned is the sound of the fuel pump priming and then nothing, no turn over. If you press the key fob again sometimes you hear the car unlock again and the immobiliser resets but this can take quite a few attempts.

Is their any way to by pass the immobiliser, I'm not even bothered about locking it as all its used for is dog and mud duties just need it to start ok as swmbo uses it regularly.

Any help much appreciated
Try waggling the small wire that goes onto the started motor. If all you get is the fuel pump winding up but no click etc then its probably this at fault. If it fixes it get some wet and dry and pull the wire off the terminal and give it a good clean then use contact cleaner to stop it happening again
 
You should be able to open and start the car with just the key.....
Your key has a chip inside that is coded to your instrument binnacle which is detected by a hall effect pick up around your ignition barrel.
You may have a faulty pick up on the barrel but sound's to me like you may have a problem else where. If you fuel pump is priming and your fob occasionally works. I'd be checking fuses on the ignition circuit IE starter motor, alternator
 
You should be able to open and start the car with just the key.....
Your key has a chip inside that is coded to your instrument binnacle which is detected by a hall effect pick up around your ignition barrel.
You may have a faulty pick up on the barrel but sound's to me like you may have a problem else where. If you fuel pump is priming and your fob occasionally works. I'd be checking fuses on the ignition circuit IE starter motor, alternator
Early cars have the Rover immobliser in with the alarm/locking, the later transponder in the key is BMW.
 
Cheers for the replies guys, The key is not a transponder type its just a Key ! the fob has the buttons on it open and close, When I press the open button you hear the c/locking open and then it will disarm, but the c/locking dosent always seem to disarm every time you press the fob, May be the fob thinking about it, but as I said the battery is quite new and no chimes in the cabin.

I can see this costing a few £££ when I havent got any at the moment :(

Will try the starter motor wire.

The engine definately wont turn over at all.
 
If you have the key that has a kind of hinge in it then the transponder is in the fob!! The transponder operation is independent of the remote buttons. It could be you have a duff unlock button on the fob as the micro switchs only have a finite life. If the fuel pump primes I would think it's just a dirty connection on the starter. You only need the Emergency Access Code if you loose the fob!!
 
Thanks for the answers guys most useful.

I'm off work tomorrow so will have a look at the starter motor connections.

Just to clarify one point though, If the transponder in the key fob works independently to the lock/unlock buttons in theory as long as the fob is near the ignition barrell it should disarm. I assume then there is some form of receiver in the ignition barrell, Is this a servicable part ?

Would there be any benefit in getting a new case for the fob as they are cheap as chips on fleabay?
 
Thanks for the answers guys most useful.

I'm off work tomorrow so will have a look at the starter motor connections.

Just to clarify one point though, If the transponder in the key fob works independently to the lock/unlock buttons in theory as long as the fob is near the ignition barrell it should disarm. I assume then there is some form of receiver in the ignition barrell, Is this a servicable part ?

Would there be any benefit in getting a new case for the fob as they are cheap as chips on fleabay?

The imobilizer transponder is in the fob of the pre-2001 models if you have the hinged key! If you have the tear drop shape key the transponder is in the key!! There is a sensor coil around the ignition lock which can fail. You can't get any old fob off ebay though as it needs to be programmed into the alarm ecu using T4 with a code that is normaly not with a second hand fob iirc. But if you are not getting a chime when you try to start then I reckon the imobilizer is working. I'd be looking at the starter wire first.
 
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