im sorry to say this is not an aprils fool joke

As far as I am aware, it is required by the US EPA that All 1996 and newer vehicles (cars and light trucks) sold in the United States must be OBD II compliant and this includes all Domestic, Asian and European vehicles. It was only mandatory for all petrol vehicles sold in the European Union, for those starting in MY2001. EOBD is a version of OBD-II required in Europe since Model Year 2003 for diesel vehicles and since 2001 for gasoline vehicles[6]. With Euro V and Euro VI emission standards, EOBD emission thresholds will be lower than previous Euro III and IV. EOBD refers to Europe On-Board Diagnostics.

OBD II (OBD2)

OBD-II
OBD-II is an improvement over OBD-I in both capability and standardization. The OBD-II standard specifies the type of diagnostic connector and its pinout, the electrical signalling protocols available, and the messaging format. It also provides a candidate list of vehicle parameters to monitor along with how to encode the data for each. Finally, the OBD-II standard provides an extensible list of DTCs. As a result of this standardization, a single device can query the on-board computer(s) in any vehicle. This OBD-II came in 2 models OBD-IIA and OBD-IIB.

OBD-II Diagnostic connector


Connector
The OBD-II specification provides for a standardized hardware interface—the female 16-pin (2x8) J1962 connector. Unlike the OBD-I connector, which was sometimes found under the bonnet of the vehicle, the OBD-II connector is required to be within 2 feet of the steering wheel (unless an exemption is applied for by the manufacturer, in which case it is still somewhere within reach of the driver). SAE J1962 defines the pinout of the connector as:
1) Manufacturer discretion. GM: J2411 GMLAN/SWC/Single-Wire CAN.
2) Bus positive Line of SAE-J1850 PWM and SAE-1850 VPW
3) Ford DCL(+) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000, Usa, Europe, etc.
4) Chassis ground
5) Signal ground
6) CAN high (ISO 15765-4 and SAE-J2284)
7) K line of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
8) -
9) -
10) Bus negative Line of SAE-J1850 PWM only (not SAE-1850 VPW)
11) Ford DCL(-) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000, Usa, Europe, etc.
12) -
13) -
14) CAN low (ISO 15765-4 and SAE-J2284)
15) L line of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
16) Battery voltage
The assignment of unspecified pins is left to the vehicle manufacturer's discretion

The Mad Hat Man said:

As far as I am aware, it is required by the US EPA that All 1996 and newer vehicles (cars and light trucks) sold in the United States must be OBD II compliant and this includes all Domestic, Asian and European vehicles. It was only mandatory for all petrol vehicles sold in the European Union, for those starting in MY2001. EOBD is a version of OBD-II required in Europe since Model Year 2003 for diesel vehicles and since 2001 for gasoline vehicles[6]. With Euro V and Euro VI emission standards, EOBD emission thresholds will be lower than previous Euro III and IV. EOBD refers to Europe On-Board Diagnostics.

OBD II (OBD2)

OBD-II
OBD-II is an improvement over OBD-I in both capability and standardization. The OBD-II standard specifies the type of diagnostic connector and its pinout, the electrical signalling protocols available, and the messaging format. It also provides a candidate list of vehicle parameters to monitor along with how to encode the data for each. Finally, the OBD-II standard provides an extensible list of DTCs. As a result of this standardization, a single device can query the on-board computer(s) in any vehicle. This OBD-II came in 2 models OBD-IIA and OBD-IIB.

OBD-II Diagnostic connector


Connector
The OBD-II specification provides for a standardized hardware interface—the female 16-pin (2x8) J1962 connector. Unlike the OBD-I connector, which was sometimes found under the bonnet of the vehicle, the OBD-II connector is required to be within 2 feet of the steering wheel (unless an exemption is applied for by the manufacturer, in which case it is still somewhere within reach of the driver). SAE J1962 defines the pinout of the connector as:
1) Manufacturer discretion. GM: J2411 GMLAN/SWC/Single-Wire CAN.
2) Bus positive Line of SAE-J1850 PWM and SAE-1850 VPW
3) Ford DCL(+) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000, Usa, Europe, etc.
4) Chassis ground
5) Signal ground
6) CAN high (ISO 15765-4 and SAE-J2284)
7) K line of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
8) -
9) -
10) Bus negative Line of SAE-J1850 PWM only (not SAE-1850 VPW)
11) Ford DCL(-) Argentina, Brazil (pre OBD-II) 1997-2000, Usa, Europe, etc.
12) -
13) -
14) CAN low (ISO 15765-4 and SAE-J2284)
15) L line of ISO 9141-2 and ISO 14230-4
16) Battery voltage
The assignment of unspecified pins is left to the vehicle manufacturer's discretion

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So all Land Rover petrols from 2001 and all diesels from 2003 should be readable with a standard OBDII connector and software. Are they i don't know?

wammers said:

So all Land Rover petrols from 2001 and all diesels from 2003 should be readable with a standard OBDII connector and software. Are they i don't know?

Click to expand...

exactly

Getting back to the original problem Here's a suggestion.. Do you have a significant difference in tread depth between the tyres on the rear axle? Can't remember the exact figure but you're only allowed about 2mm max difference. A big difference in tread depth over sufficient distance driving fairly straight could cause the centre diff to lock and the disparate tread depth to break the diff on the axle they are fitted on.

mikeateves

the tyres where put on brand new shortly before i bought the motor+ive done less that 1400mls in it ,the tyres still look new +theres no paticular wear pattern showing,when i bought it last may i noticed it whined slightly on the way home.i checked it on getting home plenty oil in diff,no play in bearings ect but it is fitted with wide road type tyres std 18" alloys as per p38 .i put it on a wheelfree 4 poster lift and ran it no noise from the diff,we assumed it was tyre noise( the lads camero does the same thing ie wide tyres noisey) its just got worse until the diff started to knock,pulled it to bits and found 1 tooth missing +several chipped teeth? fitted a s/h diff it was tapping more or less straight away,the guy i bought it of swapped it no bother but so far circumstances have prevented us from changing it as yet(this weekend hopefully) as i said i dont mind buying a recon diff but ide like to make sure of things first........dave

mikeateves said:

Getting back to the original problem Here's a suggestion.. Do you have a significant difference in tread depth between the tyres on the rear axle? Can't remember the exact figure but you're only allowed about 2mm max difference. A big difference in tread depth over sufficient distance driving fairly straight could cause the centre diff to lock and the disparate tread depth to break the diff on the axle they are fitted on.

mikeateves

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Not likely unless the viscous was siezed solid. The rear prop is direct coupled to the centre diff. The centre diff is coupled to the front prop by the viscous coupling. Any difference in tyre size would be compensated
for by centre diff that's what it's there for. Unless viscous was siezed that is. Dave said the diff failed after a very short distance so cannot see the tyres being the problem.

after the input one lz + checking about with contacts ect i leaning to wammers theory i got a bad s/h diff there dont seem to be anyother reason,however time will tell,the sons got the weekend of so he,s talking about doing it on saturday....heres hoping folks....dave

WAY-HEY at long last the saga is at an end,the son and i took the diff out yesterday and found 1 tooth whitch looked as if the case hardening had come off hence the tapping noise,no teeth missing a per the first one ,we must have been unlucky with the s/h diff. I,LL run this s/h diff for a while then get the origonal reconned,now theres just the low range +blend motors to fix,well if you cant take a joke you should'nt have joined,thats what they told me on my first ship ffs ,thanks to all who posted offering help ,advice ect......dave

big dave2 said:

WAY-HEY at long last the saga is at an end,the son and i took the diff out yesterday and found 1 tooth whitch looked as if the case hardening had come off hence the tapping noise,no teeth missing a per the first one ,we must have been unlucky with the s/h diff. I,LL run this s/h diff for a while then get the origonal reconned,now theres just the low range +blend motors to fix,well if you cant take a joke you should'nt have joined,thats what they told me on my first ship ffs ,thanks to all who posted offering help ,advice ect......dave

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Well done mate. Got there in the end. S/H items are sometimes S/H for a reason.

cheers wammers i cant complain cos the first diff was given free of charge from a pal ,he believed it was a goodun,the last one only cost me £80 with a garantee it was just bad luck,lets face it it would have no bother if i,d have been fit,once again thanks for the input mate.....dave

PS the son changed the diff in 3hours,thats the trouble with youth "ITS WASTED ON THE YOUNG UNS FFS"........dave

big dave2 said:

cheers wammers i cant complain cos the first diff was given free of charge from a pal ,he believed it was a goodun,the last one only cost me £80 with a garantee it was just bad luck,lets face it it would have no bother if i,d have been fit,once again thanks for the input mate.....dave

Click to expand...

No problem. I just fitted a recon rear to mine i got from Crowndiffs. He does a good job. Was going to recon it myself but cost of all the bits came to not much less than i got one for delivered, so not worth the hassle. Would never fit S/H on something like that asking for trouble really.

I know what you mean wammers,but im retired now so income is fixed ,i cant afford to buy new then find out its foobared so s/h first ,as i said a pal giave me the first one F O C,i cant complain,,,,dave