im sorry to say this is not an aprils fool joke

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big dave2

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637
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MONKEYHANGERLAND. HARTLEPOOL, NE ENGLAND
morning folk i was readin a thread in the freelander section(i know,i know sad git)last night and i wondered if it had any relavance to my problem,im @ to replace the third rear diff in my p38 d s e,when i spotted the thread @ viscous couplings in gaylander section,could my vc be seized and feckin my rear diffs up,can i test it the same way as a g lander?,,can replace my rear diff and take the front prop off to drive ie whilst i get new/sh vc,how much are they? where the fook are they?and the biggie how the hell do you get em out? to change em,,,heres hoping!!!!any comments ,help,ect greatly appreciated,,,thanks dave:cool:
 
big dave2 said:
morning folk i was readin a thread in the freelander section(i know,i know sad git)last night and i wondered if it had any relavance to my problem,im @ to replace the third rear diff in my p38 d s e,when i spotted the thread @ viscous couplings in gaylander section,could my vc be seized and feckin my rear diffs up,can i test it the same way as a g lander?,,can replace my rear diff and take the front prop off to drive ie whilst i get new/sh vc,how much are they? where the fook are they?and the biggie how the hell do you get em out? to change em,,,heres hoping!!!!any comments ,help,ect greatly appreciated,,,thanks dave:cool:
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Lots of threads on this lately. A siezed viscous coupling is easy to check for. Jack one front wheel up and put box in neutral. Try turning wheel, you should be able to turn it with great effort. If you cannot turn it the coupling is siezed. A siezed coupling will have a much greater effect on the front diff than the rear one, this is due to the steering causing great stress on the sun and planet wheels in the diff. It is replaced by removing the front prop and the drive flange from transfer box then unblot the coupling housing and twist off. The coupling will come out with the housing, press old one out press in new refit with silicone sealant on housing. About an hours work. It is unlikely that a siezed coupling has caused rear diff to go much more likely for front one to go first if it is siezed.
 
CHEERS wammers ive read loads of threads on gaylanders @ this dunno about p38 though ,like you said i coulnt see how this would feck the rear diff up but this is the third in 11 months im stuck i dont wanna put the diff in and feck it up and have to do it again,,,aaaarrgh it as fustrating as f**k the lad helps no bother but its time away from the little un,all we wanna do is fix it ffs,,its a bugger,the lad keeps apolagising cos him and the wife pushed me to buy it,they thought it would be LESS work being newer an that. ha ha ha sob,im still driving my old rattly classic cos the p38 is tomducked lol,thanks wammers look like another big job :doh: thanks for the feedback,,,,dave
 
big dave2 said:
CHEERS wammers ive read loads of threads on gaylanders @ this dunno about p38 though ,like you said i coulnt see how this would feck the rear diff up but this is the third in 11 months im stuck i dont wanna put the diff in and feck it up and have to do it again,,,aaaarrgh it as fustrating as f**k the lad helps no bother but its time away from the little un,all we wanna do is fix it ffs,,its a bugger,the lad keeps apolagising cos him and the wife pushed me to buy it,they thought it would be LESS work being newer an that. ha ha ha sob,im still driving my old rattly classic cos the p38 is tomducked lol,thanks wammers look like another big job :doh: thanks for the feedback,,,,dave
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Third diff in eleven months. Are you fitting new ones or second hand? Are you towing. If you are fitting new, are you allowing them to run in for five hundred miles or so WITHOUT overloading them. No sudden acceleration heavy towing Etc. Or are you fitting S/H?
 
SORRY wammers for the late reply but ive been out all day,just got back on the net now,the diffs are s/h mate i aint shellin out for a new un until its sorted mate,the 1 ive got ready to put in i heard while driving its a goodun,in reply to goony they,r the standard 18" alloys mate wiv road tyres mate ,good for posing thats about it they where brand new last may when i bought the motor ,i aint buying anymore till these are worn out mate...........dave lol
 
TELL yer what wammers i like that mind "are you doing any heavy towing,sudden acellerating" its a d s e ffs,jokin aside its not turned a wheel since before christmas i bought it last may so far ive managed to get to go 1276mls in that time ffs!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the feed back mate....dave
 
drive it slowly onfull lock if it crabs or is not smooth then centre diff issue⁻classics suffered this
 
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eyup fanatic ive only done less tham 1300miles in the damb thing ,it drives beutifully no issues whatever,ive had the classic stuck difflock its never done anything like that its smoooooth,the last diff lasted long enough to get it out the garage by the time i turned it round ,parked up the street ,i could hear the diff tapping,now the son and i checked it before fitting ,it was sound otherwise i would,nt have fitted it ,never mind PAID for it,,,all the usuall p38 faults no bother but this is a bugger......dave
 
big dave2 said:
TELL yer what wammers i like that mind "are you doing any heavy towing,sudden acellerating" its a d s e ffs,jokin aside its not turned a wheel since before christmas i bought it last may so far ive managed to get to go 1276mls in that time ffs!!!!!!!!!! thanks for the feed back mate....dave
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Then do the check as described and you will know if the coupling is siezed. Second hand diffs are always a bit of a gamble. But as i said it should do the front one in long before it effect the back one. Maybe you have just had a couple of bad ones. If coupling is siezed take your front prop shaft off until you get it changed.
 
we ve been in the garage this pm the lad and i ,checked the viscous coupling the wheel was hard to turn but turn it did ,we turned it one full turn so it looks like the vc is ok,thats good news but it still leaves the question of whats knacking the rear diffs up
im going to put a new diff in but take the front prop off to try it dunno if it will work or not but i cant think of owt else,,,,,,,,,,dave
 
big dave2 said:
we ve been in the garage this pm the lad and i ,checked the viscous coupling the wheel was hard to turn but turn it did ,we turned it one full turn so it looks like the vc is ok,thats good news but it still leaves the question of whats knacking the rear diffs up
im going to put a new diff in but take the front prop off to try it dunno if it will work or not but i cant think of owt else,,,,,,,,,,dave
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What part of the diff actually fails?
 
eyup datatek the first one had teeth missing of the crown wheel 3 if i remember rightly,this one SOUNDS like it has a tooth missing but we havent stripped it down yet,the origonal one howled like a banshee,we cleaned the diff out before we put anything back ,like wammers said we must be unlucky with s/h diffs,i would buy a new one but i want to know the problem,s solved first if i can a s/h one to run for a few weeks then ill get a newun,,,,,,,dave,,,sorry @ the time lapse been out shooting all day
 
big dave2 said:
MMMMM sumit i never thought about data,when we strip it ill put em in the lathe and check em, cheers mate.....i must admit when you,r wrestling with a long ,drawn out job the old grey matter gets a bit stale,you get brain fade, eeeh,eerrrr emm,wot?.....dave:( :confused:
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Grasping at straws a little with this one. A bent half shafts would certainly stress the sun wheels. But cannot see how it would strip teeth from the crown wheel. Then again how do you bend an halfshaft?
 
wammers said:
Grasping at straws a little with this one. A bent half shafts would certainly stress the sun wheels. But cannot see how it would strip teeth from the crown wheel. Then again how do you bend an halfshaft?
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NICE one wammers i must admit the one and only time ive managed to bend a half shaft was nearly 40 years ago flying downthe road in an ELVA COURIER went over a filled in trench across the road ,big bang after that i had what can only be described as a THRUMMING noise+a small vibration,turned out to be a bent halfshaft,i havent done anything like that in the p38 though....dave
 
wammers said:
Grasping at straws a little with this one. A bent half shafts would certainly stress the sun wheels. But cannot see how it would strip teeth from the crown wheel. Then again how do you bend an halfshaft?
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Bent half shafts cause all sort of strange diff failures:eek: How do they bend? Not sure but could be from violent torque reversals, used have that problem on a race car using Morris minor axle.
 
Datatek said:
Bent half shafts cause all sort of strange diff failures:eek: How do they bend? Not sure but could be from violent torque reversals, used have that problem on a race car using Morris minor axle.
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It is quite possible to snap a Range Rover or Land Rover halfshaft by applying the hand brake carrying an load and with grippy tyres. Or even shear already worn splines in a sun wheel or on the shaft. But i think bending one is a little beyond the bounds of probability in normal use. Anyway that would only effect a Sun wheel, not the crown wheel, the Sun wheels are going to give way long before the crown wheel will. Teeth are usually lost from crown wheels when the wear is such that the pinion climbs out of mesh. Or the main crown wheel and carrier flex enough for the pinion to run on the edge of the teeth when under extreme load. Normal road use would not cause this to happen, unless the S/H diff was knacked in the first place.
 
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