ignition amplifier

Hi All,
having the same problem as many others did with replacing an old 2-pin IA with a new 3-pin model, I run into the problem of wiring it correctly. I searched for previous threads and found a few, but for some reasons they all stopped with the suggestion of buying the adaptor link lead stc1212.
Even if that would be the most practical solution, yet I would like to know which wire goes to which pin. I already know the central pin is not used, but in particular I would like to understand if there are +ve and -ve pins on the module or if polarity is not relevant and provided there is a tension it will be amplified.
Hopefully it is not too silly a question.....

Many thanks to all replies

Ciao

Adriano

Why don't you get a 2 pin amp from a local motor factor. Intermota make 2 pin amps to fit, I know because I've fitted one on my Rangie (unless they stopped making them very recently)

OK kev, many thanks for the suggestion. I already have my 3pin module and would like to use that one to start with, + have already messed up the cables. As I understand you have the 2pin model, could you kindly provide me with the following info: is the -ve from coil connected to the left or to the right pin looking at it from the coil side of the engine bay? That would be a good starting point.
I would have imagined that if polarity were relevant there would have been marks on the module but there aren't. The electrical scheme gives -ve to the left but it also gives the coil upside down, I imagine for clarity sake, so I don't know which one to believe to...
Many thanks

CIao

Adriano

im considering replaceing my lucas modual with a balast resieter and a 2 pin amp, but like you cant find info for wires, been told to look at one fitted coz plugs are shaped ,and then go off wire colour . is the third pin for rev counter.

The V8 Owners Forum - :: View topic - Ballast resistor on a lucas hotwire dizzy wiring? just found this if it helps

Iansky, simply fantastic......
I'll go and get it wired immediately....
Thanks

Ciao

Adriano

did try to edit that thread but didnt work. google image is good for diagrams and pics of wot your trying to see.as above often go to a link. think im going to use my **** modual to work a 9 volt coil and ballast for now. can you draw a pic and diagram when you get done

It all worked beautifully.... up and running again....
THe module is now displaced to the side of the engine bay, close to the coil, where it shouldn't suffer the same heat problems as before.
Ianski, as far as I know, the ballast resistor is something they used to add to make sure the coil wasn't getting too much voltage during ordinary work (as opposed to cranking, when all power is sucked up by starter and the spark becomes very weak, exactly when you need it to be at its highest...) but I might be wrong.
So all what I can do for now is to add a diagram of my present situation, and you see if that can help you. To be honest, I didn't pick up what exactly is your problem, but if you try to explain it once more I might eventually get to it.
I can also add some more info: the module did run with wrong polarity for a few attempts while trying to work it out, so I think unless you really insist, a polarity swap is not critical and you don't fry it. Or....I have been extremely lucky!

Thanks very much for the help

CIao

Adriano

ive got one of those lucas moduals withe the coil clamped on top, the spark is **** and its a mother to start. im going back to a ballast coil like i had on a old SD1 ,lot better. like you the prib was which way round the wires go if ibought a amp, think im going to try runing my modual at 9volt with a ballast coil, thanks for any input two heads are better than one

if by your pic the condensor is your ballast , ign feed should go through it to + on coil then a cranking feed to + on coil for starting

Hi Ianski, sorry I was missing your post, thinking the topic was over.
As far as I know a ballast is a resistor not a condenser, apart from that I agree with the proposed scheme. But my circuit hasn't got a ballast, the way to tell it is measuring tension between coil +ve and ground with ign ON. If it's 12 no ballast, if less (7.5-9-etc) there is a ballast.
I suspect a module requires a given voltage and they cannot be swapped easily, so why not getting an ordinary coil (no ballast) together with the module?

CIao

Adriano