I want to go off-roading in a Freelander

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Winu said:
Yup, it's a good stuff. Together with TC (helps to switch locking it up, or you can do it manual by handbrake) do great job wth one rear wheel up, or on ditch
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Just been reading about it on the Ashcroft engineering website - the combination of an LSD and HDC/TC would be a very good one! :)
 
For me, so far, the HDC/TC is more than capable of getting the FL out of the sticky situations I've thrown at it so far. But I have not attempted any rocks etc.
 
With permanent 4WD (eg Winu's "Classic type" LR/RR) - if you're on a slippery surface and 1 wheel loses traction - that's it, no other wheels get drive, you are stuck just as you would with a 2WD car. If you engage the center diff lock - then you will get drive to at least 1 wheel on each axle (not on D2!). With Freelander AWD the VCU provides the same functionality as an automatic center diff lock - so you'll get drive to at least 2 wheels. You have to be doing some pretty serious off roading if you want to guarantee that more than 2 wheels will be driven. TC makes locking more wheels even less beneficial. HDC (I think) is just a bit gimmicky.
 
HDC puts the TC into a more aggressive mode: HDC can be used on the flat; you don't need to let it crawl you along, it'll maintain any speed to set with the accelerator pedal :) If you lift off, it'll reset to the crawl speed and apply 4-wheel braking to achieve it.

One day I'll get time to sort out that pesky ABS sensor on mine and get normal service restored!!!
 
From http://www.ashcroft-transmissions.co.uk/limited-slip-differentials.html

For the 'Green Laner' doing non extreme off roading or those driving frequently on low traction surfaces i.e. pulling a horsebox off a grass, or on ice/snow the Limited Slip Differential is an ideal upgrade for your vehicle.



The Limited Slip operation differs from the Locking differential in that it is never 100% locked. It operates by applying torque to the wheel with traction when the other wheel looses grip.



The ATB gear type limited slip relies on the internal friction generated by gear sets within the diff centre, these gear sets are unsupported and designed to be ineffecient. In a normal situation, i.e. on road this diff will be totally transparent, you will not know it is fitted. Provided both wheels have grip no torque biasing takes place, on a bend or corner the faster outer wheel will try to bind up the internal gears but the inner slower wheel constantly unwinds the gears, so again on a corner no bias is felt. On low or no traction surfaces where one wheel has considerably less traction than the other and thus tends to spin, the gear action within the diff causes friction which in turn applies load to the wheel with traction. The amount of torque applied depends on what is termed the 'Bias ratio'. Bias ratios can be varied by different pre-loads and different gear profiles but the most common have a bias ratio of approx 2:1.



The advantage of a Limited Slip differential is that it is totally automatic, no driver interaction and retains drive to both wheels at all times.



The disadvantage of ATB is that if one wheel is totally off the ground ,i.e. no drive then the other wheel similarly because the bias ratio is still 2:1 i.e. 2 x nothing is still nothing. Attempts at changing the preload or left foot braking can then fool the ATB into working or better still if the vehicle is fitted with ATC (automatic traction control) the ATB will enhance the action.
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May be all sales hot air, but seems appropriate?
 
GrumpyGel said:
With permanent 4WD (eg Winu's "Classic type" LR/RR) - if you're on a slippery surface and 1 wheel loses traction - that's it, no other wheels get drive, you are stuck just as you would with a 2WD car. If you engage the center diff lock - then you will get drive to at least 1 wheel on each axle (not on D2!). With Freelander AWD the VCU provides the same functionality as an automatic center diff lock - so you'll get drive to at least 2 wheels. You have to be doing some pretty serious off roading if you want to guarantee that more than 2 wheels will be driven. TC makes locking more wheels even less beneficial. HDC (I think) is just a bit gimmicky.
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Not according to Rache GG ;). Although we are all aware that his information was flawed!!.

The FL1 could benefit from the torque biasing rear diff though. They are clever as they bias the torque to the wheel with the grip.
 
Ok so I still want a Freelander despite all your tales of woe and I think it's going to be a v6. There don't seem to be many about. Most are in England (I'm in Scotland)
I'm not too worried about mpg as it will be used mainly for off-roading.
What should I be looking for when I see one-is there anything that can be tested-I presume it's easy to see if there's no prop shaft-any comment/ideas welcome
 
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Dribbler said:
Ok so I still want a Freelander despite all your tales of woe and I think it's going to be a v6. There don't seem to be many about. Most are in England (I'm in Scotland)
What should I be looking for when I see one-is there anything that can be tested-I presume it's easy to see if there's no prop shaft-any comment/ideas welcome
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The V6 is by far the nicest FL1 to drive, on and off the road.

However all that refinement does come with some down sides. It's thirst is quite staggering, for a small 4X4. You'll not see more than 20 MPG on the urban cycle and under 10 MPG off road. Motorway MPG is up to 30 or so, if restraint is used.

There are some reliability issues with the engine. It's not as bad as some will say, but issues there are. These are centred around the cooling system, especially the thermostat. It's a horrible plastic thingy (thanks BMW). This has a marginal life and eventually leaks coolant. The main problem is the leakage is hidden in the V, so isn't spotted. The engine is hyper fussy about coolant levels. A drop of a litre or two is enough for air to be drawn in. This then cooks the head gaskets in seconds. The net result is an expensive repair job. Because the engine is easy damaged and extensive to fix. Many are sold already damaged, being bodged to hide a possible problem.
So you need to check the engine carefully, to reduce potential problems.
The engine also needs the 3 timing belts changed every 5 years. This is costly and often skipped as a result.

This sounds like a recipe for trouble, but they are not all bad. The V6 is a good engine and if looked after correctly, will do huge mileage.
 
Well finally got my Freelander delivered this evening. It's a 2002 3 door v6 in black. 94000 miles and MOTed til next April. It's got the small soft top in the boot with all the bits to put it up. Also got the bag for roof cross bars but no bars! Also got a larger bag which is empty-think that might have held a full size soft top. Will try to get some pics up tomorrow.
 
They don't do very well in Shetland peat bogs. Though to be fair I got it stuck on purpose as we were having a recovery training day. My Defender was also bogged down in it.
 

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DefenderPilot said:
They don't do very well in Shetland peat bogs. Though to be fair I got it stuck on purpose as we were having a recovery training day. My Defender was also bogged down in it.
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To be fair. Even the D3 got stuck in a Scottish peat bog, when Jeremy Clarkson drove it up a Scottish mountain!!
 
So the first thing I want to do is a body lift-probably 40mm. Who has done one and is it pretty straightforward. Do you also need castor correction bolts for the front--and back? And last of all where is best to get them?
Any info greatly received.
 
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