I need your experience about 1990 Range Rover Classic

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Ehanrex

New Member
Posts
6
Location
Turkey
Hi everybody, I was searching for a Range Rover Classic 3.9, and I finally found it. But my knowledge is very short about those cars and I need your experience. I got some photos of the car from engine, inrterior, exterior and under of it. I can say that interior looks vey clean even it is not cleaned for a long time. Also body shape looks perfect and even there is no scratch on it. But I saw some oil leakege at the engine and under car components, like differentials and hoses. This car is from goverment so I couldnt turn the engine on. But I talked with some people about it, they told me that this car was never driven at hard offroad conditions but mostly city driving and sometimes light offroad conditions and was waiting at that place for 1 year. From those and from pictures;

- Is it possible to tell form the pictures that this Range Rover Classic is a good and a clean car?
- Will be there a major problem with it?
- Are there any Chronic problems with this car?
Thank you so much

Detailed pictures

. rr-081.JPG rr-070.JPGrr-081.JPG rr-070.JPG rr-046.JPG rr-065.JPG rr-054.JPG rr-074.JPG rr-071.JPG rr-075.JPG rr-078.JPG rr-077.JPG rr-051.JPG rr-073.JPG rr-053.JPG rr-056.JPG rr-057.JPG rr-064.JPG rr-067.JPG rr-071.JPG rr-058.JPG rr-044.JPG rr-063.JPG rr-059.JPG rr-061.JPG rr-052.JPG rr-056.JPG rr-066.JPG rr-068.JPG rr-048.JPG rr-043.JPG
 
in the uk rust especially around the sills and boot floor is the biggest issue, the engine was prone for cracked blocks if over heated but you cant know until its had a good run a healthy cooling system is vital, the odd leak is normal
 
in the uk rust especially around the sills and boot floor is the biggest issue, the engine was prone for cracked blocks if over heated but you cant know until its had a good run a healthy cooling system is vital, the odd leak is normal
Thanks for the reply :) So in general, what do you think about the car?
 
Bad news. I found somebody to know something about the car and he told me that there is a crack at the engine block. They kept the the car outside about 3 years and never drained the coolant. So engine block cracked at very cold winter days I guess
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Hi there, James got in before I did but he is an expert whereas I can only advise as the owner of four V8 RRC's & paid the many invoices over the last 16 years! Up to your last post re. the cracked block I would have said buy it, get rid of that bloody awful bull-bar & lamp guards & then give the thing a good wash - that's when you will find more rust. Now that you know about the block either walk away or look into the possibility of having a 'known good' used engine retrofitted, but be warned - all 94mm bore RV8's, that's all except the original 3.5, are susceptible to liner slippage caused by the block cracking around the liner & they don't necessarily have to be over-heated to cause this problem - I'll leave you to guess how I know :rolleyes:
 
Thanx to eveybody for your help. I really scared of this block crack and didn't bid to RRC. But I'm sure nobody bidded to the car. To find a used 3.9 RV8 engine block is hard to find in Turkey but engine stitching is common. So If I have a chance to buy it with a lower price, may be half or lower than half of it, I will get the car, I will let you know :)
 
You could always go for a 3.5 if available, unsure of what changes would have to be made to the EFI wiring but you could convert to carbs. instead.
Despite the factory figures depicting lower power/torque figures, having owned both examples I found little difference in real-world performance, plus the 3.5 is pretty well bullet-proof.
 
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