I havent got the three amigos but its still bad!

Hi, I bought a 99 td5 auto disco 2 last Friday and shortly after realised the HDC, TC and ABS light didnt light up on ignition to self test... should have realised before purchacing... oh dear. Checked all the fuses relays etc which are fine so today I removed the dash and rather than bunging up the light holes or taping over the dash as I have now read about they have removed the surface mount leds! Insert naughty word hear ********. The iluminated leds read 1.9v on a multimeter but between the two contacts where the leds used to be read 10.4v. Is it highter as it is an open circuit? Im after ordering some surface mounts leds to repair them but need to know if 1.9v leds will do and then have the three amigos before sorting the real issue. Any ideas? Oh and the abs doesnt work when tested at 40 mph on a straight country road it locked up. At least the brakes are good:doh:

Never crossed my mind to measure voltage there... imo is due to the open circuit... take out a working led and measure the voltage there... or swap the SLS warning(cos this is same type) to ABS, TC or HDC and see what happens... in the worst case u'll need one led more after u'll sort out the overvoltage(if there is any).... but voltage measurement there with LED removed is unconclusive cos the BCU sends voltage on the earth path to iluminate warning lamps so it's a kind of serial circuit. IMO if u put proper amber LED's there they will all be all on.

thanks sierrafery. Im fully expecting the three amigos when the new leds are fitted but at least I can then tell when I change a component if its sorted when the lights go out or not. Im thinking abs sensor as the sls bulb is still in and throws a fault light on when going quickly round a corner (ACE fluid level fine). Red with beeps and resets on engine off and restart. sls under normal driving self checks at start up then goes out for normal journeys but goes bong bong bong on twisty country roads. Shes now parked up till further investigations can be carried out and the dash lights are repaired. Rave says warning lights for abd hdc and tc are 1.2w a voltage would have been nice

Make somehow to plug it in a tester ASAP(at least u'll most of the faults).... that sls thing is not good(and it has nothing to do with ACE)... u might end up with a burnt compressor. If it dives over night u have a leak somewhere and the sls warning is due to compressor overrun....if not it could be a sensor or valve issue...or the worst, the SLABS ECU faulty and that's the reason of overvoltage, erratic warnings or ABS/SLS system missbehaviour...take the LED from the water in fuel warning(quite useless anyway) and make tests with it on the ABS part

You only bought it last friday, cant you confront the seller and ask for a full refund? phone trading standards and see what your rights are, You have dishonestly been sold that truck as far as im concerned (how did it pass its MOT?)and I personally would definately be looking at seeing the seller again - in short you got skanked.

Yep thats what you could do if it hadnt been a private sale. Buyer beware! To be honest I dont know when it was done and if the previous owner (The 2nd owner) of nearly four years knew or not but even so she has only covered an average 8000 miles a year with all mots and main dealer history upto just over three years ago then she was maintained by a big overland preperation company with all receipts of work done. I would guess previous owner (Who had his new landy there when I went to view) + 3 amigos and a chat with a back street garage before advertising for sale seems most likley. Seemed a bit to easy to secure for £1900 but fortunatly sound engine, gearbox super smooth with well kept rust free chassis and body with a very high spec. It is just down to sorting out the gremlins and she will be a good en again. I have faith... hopefuly not missplace. Oh and all chassis / vins engine numbers match up and hpi clear so I almost checked everything I may well change my tune in a few weeks if I end up shelling out for 4 new hubs but shes a Landy and I love her Im currently working through the basics (All fluids and filters and I do mean all) to get her to the point where the bits that need doing are beyond me e.g the computer diagnosis of the amigos she realy does drive like a gooden until you consider the non operational abs so she will be a keeper when done. Just looking on autotrader now within 40 miles the cheepest td5 is showing 40000 miles more with no mention of history and is £850 more than I paid and theres nothing to say a month down the line that one wont develop some similar faults. Thanks though and I dont supose you know the voltage of the leds do you

Edit and update a recipts that makes me think shes a keeper

2000 miles ago tentioner and all belts changed £500
2100 miles ago new key cut and coded exterior bulbs and mot with 1 advisory mid exhaust box has slight deteriation £300 (Ive just replaced with stainless straight through pipe)
6000 miles ago full rear suspension overhall new shocks, bags, bushes, shocks £750
8000 miles ago front radius arm bushes and fuel flap clip £270
9000 miles ago 4 new 225 55 18 general uhp tyres £441.60
12000 miles ago all new discs and pads £400
previous to this is all main dealer and the only mot advisory is the last one 2100 miles ago for the mid box.

Will have her on a diagnostic machine asap and have the slabs checked out but shes not being driven since the sls warning light. I thought sls and ace was all the same thing? self leveling / active cornering enhansment (hydraulic anti roll bars)???

sierrafery just found another invoice for a slabs ecu fitted 16 months ago and invoice states due to being unable to clear fault codes.

Disco Inferno said:

1.
1. I thought sls and ace was all the same thing? self leveling / active cornering enhansment (hydraulic anti roll bars)???

2. sierrafery just found another invoice for a slabs ecu fitted 16 months ago and invoice states due to being unable to clear fault codes.

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Short variant:
1. SLS > pneumatic self levelling suspension on compressor, height sensrs and airsprings managed by the SLABS ECU(so sls and abs in the same ECU)
ACE > hydraulic high pressure(135bar) enhancement based on pump, valves and actuators/torsion bars, managed by ACE ECU

2. IMO there is a wiring or other system fault and the second ECU wasnt able to clear the faults aswell .. that's why they decided to "shut down" the warnings.

Right then... Repaired the dash with new leds (5mm high intensity yellow leds. Voltage range of leds used min 1.8v to 2.4v - 2v typical) and all voltages read correct on the dash pcb now and have droped from 10.4v open circuit to 1.9v with the led installed and iluminated. I now have the 4 amigos! HDC / TC / ABS and brake warning light. Hawkeye reports the following....

4022 reference earth not connected to ground

4066 sensor left hand front dc failure, broken wire, sensor impedance too high/low

It also reported turbo overboost and I have now got the wategate operating again after a good dose of wd40 and some big mole grips which should sort the over boost and the up hill issue problem I was getting round to investigating.

And yes I bought a Hawkeye today so I can check whatever you think I should.

Replace the sensor and the amigos must go away...after u exceed 8mph... i think the ECU is healthy cos the 4 amigos is the normal behaviour for ABS sensor failure... the 3 amigos is strange... and strangely most common.

That "reference earth" thing is above my knowledge

a few years ago mine kept on doing a silly thing, central looking and dash lights kept coming on, took it back in to landrover and they messed around and found it to be a earth wire under passenger seat was not connected to floor properly so was causing a fault, i have heard of this since on another 2 occasions,
try and try!! maybe you will get there, you got it cheap enough and if the mechanics are ok, a few swear words and a bit of rubbing your head you will get the electrics ok

Have you sorted yours, see my post I think I've cleared it, hopefully your the same

Solly I have posted this on your thread too incase different people are following different threads. Solly great news! I didnt check the earth point under the brake pedal but I unpluged and checked the ohms on both front sensors which were fine so I pluged them back in then when I checked the abs block the round plug with the single wire was loose so a quick push and a click and I thought I'd try my luck. Switched on with no lights selected reverse and as soon as I touched the accelerator the abs unit did its pulsing as if the abs was activated under heavy braking and all lights came back on Switched to live data and both rear sensors read 2.23v and 0Kph front right 2.23v and 0Kph front left reads 0.00v no now its 0.57v hang on now its 0.8v and then 0.00v again... Ah harrr we have a culprit especialy as hawkeye reports the front left wheel is doing 5Kph when stationary Im just wondering if I should do just the sensor £46.20 with vat or chuck a new hub on £198 with vat both are Wabaco parts at that price. Just changing the sensor aint suposed to last that long and that would be a waste of £46... Hmmmmmm decisions decisions.

IMO go for the sensor first...it's not wasted money cos u'll have one for spare anytime, and these are quite unreliable. The hub related issues are usually giving u "air gap ... " fault codes and they are intermittent at the beginning.

Ok so what ive done is be thorough and technical for a change I cleared all faults with the ABS system and have used the Landy for some short trips to and from work and have retested the system. The following goes for both front left and front right as the faults were identical... 1) air gap too large 2) intermitant signal while driving 3) sensor dc failure, broken wire, sensor impedance too high/low. Is this just sensors or as mentioned before is this hubs due to the air gap problem? Id rather do it right first time so all help is appreciated.

tool doesnt know just means theres an incorrect reading in wiring to or sensor,intermittent could be poor connection in wiring etc or wheel bearing as play alters gap between sensor and reluctor ring ,i would check bearings,not allways easy to be sure unless really poor,check wiring connector in arch,remove sensor and blow down hole to clean ring and refit been careful its fitted correctly (ive had problems get them to fit right with new oring),you can test the other sensor on that side if cleaning removes fault,my guess would be bearings but check

jamesmartin knows what he's talking about... he understands perfecly what's going on... IMO though, if u can afford replace both wheel hubs now(with OEM not "replacement part iso....")...they will come with sensors fitted.... u will put your mind to rest on this issue for a while then... i did it two yearrs ago with similar fault codes... i'm still happy

mine has the three barstewds , changed front o/s hub , cleared faults great,
2 days later lights come back on , boo,
i had the codes read , showing shuttle valves , changed them , cleared faults great , woohoo no lights ,
2 days later boohoo lights back on. will have codes read again , luckily the lr garage i use dont charge me for reading the codes but its so time consuming .
i really love this disco but it is starting to look like scrap man fodder if i cant sort this

spikey said:

mine has the three barstewds , changed front o/s hub , cleared faults great,
2 days later lights come back on , boo,
i had the codes read , showing shuttle valves , changed them , cleared faults great , woohoo no lights ,
2 days later boohoo lights back on. will have codes read again , luckily the lr garage i use dont charge me for reading the codes but its so time consuming .
i really love this disco but it is starting to look like scrap man fodder if i cant sort this

Click to expand...

u have to do the shuttle valve bypass mod .... the SVS fault is rarely fixed by replaceing the valves os switches...it's a construction error made by LR.... they overcomplicated it and made it too sensitive... see this ABS Mod - LAND ROVER CLUB V.I.

so doing option B is the way forward?

i have a spare shuttle valve so will try it with this one and pop it in .
fingers crossed

Thanks to all involved for the help. The front passenger sensor is duff as its live voltage reads all over the place when stationary but the front drivers side one reads correctly however there is a slight noise when I get rough with the wheel and rock it (not sure if its wheel baring or track rod end yet but will investigate further soon. Ive booked myself in for some overtime at work this weekend so ill have some more cash to play with when fixing her up. Cant wait to get her spot on