P38A I’ll be first person ever with a fob Sync problem 😂 help please!

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

Sorry guys I know this has been asked a million times because I’ve spent hours reading all the threads to find the answer but to no avail.

So…..

Key fob batterys got replaced yesterday more than 1 minute and I’ve lost sync. Tried the sync procedure both pre 97 and post 97 but sure mines is passive as it is 2001

I can still open with central locking on the key blade but ‘engine disabled’ ‘press remote’ when I try to start her up.

Key fob blinks when inserted so somethings happening, also blinks rapid when pressing button whilst in the ignition barrel but can’t get her to start.

Any ideas, ohhh also I don’t have my EKA code but if I’m reading the posts right that’s not the issue and the dash Isint asking for it.

Any advice much appreciated, or if there’s anyone in North Lanarkshire who could assist it would be much appreciated!

Sorry, better add She’s a 2.5 diesel

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2023

Does the fob normally work at a distance, or do you have to be right at the car to unlock? If the latter then the antenna is unplugged. Plug it back in and it might start to work. It's just behind the c pillar, near the push button to release the right hand side rear seat, under the plastic.
Failing that you need the EKA code. The JLR dealer should be able to provide that.

Datatek · Oct 22, 2023

Rsjohnb said:
Sorry guys I know this has been asked a million times because I’ve spent hours reading all the threads to find the answer but to no avail.

So…..

Key fob batterys got replaced yesterday more than 1 minute and I’ve lost sync. Tried the sync procedure both pre 97 and post 97 but sure mines is passive as it is 2001

I can still open with central locking on the key blade but ‘engine disabled’ ‘press remote’ when I try to start her up.

Key fob blinks when inserted so somethings happening, also blinks rapid when pressing button whilst in the ignition barrel but can’t get her to start.

Any ideas, ohhh also I don’t have my EKA code but if I’m reading the posts right that’s not the issue and the dash Isint asking for it.

Any advice much appreciated, or if there’s anyone in North Lanarkshire who could assist it would be much appreciated!

Sorry, better add She’s a 2.5 diesel

Have you tried the key in the drivers door lock, turn to lock and press the lock button on the FOB, turn to unlock and press the unlock button on the FOB?
If you have a Nanocom or can find someone near you with one, turn off the EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM, then if the FOB fails to operate, you can open and operate the car with just the key blade.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2023

Datatek said:
Have you tried the key in the drivers door lock, turn to lock and press the lock button on the FOB, turn to unlock and press the unlock button on the FOB?
If you have a Nanocom or can find someone near you with one, turn off the EKA and Immobiliser in the BECM, then if the FOB fails to operate, you can open and operate the car with just the key blade.

Done this a few times to fix central locking, but for me it was..

Press and hold lock then turn to lock until light stops flashing then repeat for unlock. Sometimes had to do it a few times

Datatek · Oct 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Done this a few times to fix central locking, but for me it was..

Press and hold lock then turn to lock until light stops flashing then repeat for unlock. Sometimes had to do it a few times

Either way should work as turning the key primes the BECM and you have about 5 seconds to operate the FOB but it may vary from year to year of car. It does require the micro switches to be working.

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

Sorry meant to say she’s a 2.5 diesel.

kermit_rr said:
Does the fob normally work at a distance, or do you have to be right at the car to unlock? If the latter then the antenna is unplugged. Plug it back in and it might start to work. It's just behind the c pillar, near the push button to release the right hand side rear seat, under the plastic.
Failing that you need the EKA code. The JLR dealer should be able to provide that.

thanks for the quick response guys, yes when operating the fob would pop the locks when at a bit of a distance so think the antenna is plugged in.

Didn’t know about holding the key in lock position until it stopped blinking so going to try that now. Failing that I’ll dig out the V5 and head to the dealer for the EKA code.

Will update

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

Yeah tried the hold it till the lights stops blinking method but no joy,

The hunt continues

Datatek · Oct 22, 2023

Rsjohnb said:
Yeah tried the hold it till the lights stops blinking method but no joy,

The hunt continues

If you cannot sync via the door lock method, there may be a problem with the door lock micro switches, in which case the EKA code will not help. I hope I'm wrong on that.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2023

Datatek said:
If you cannot sync via the door lock method, there may be a problem with the door lock micro switches, in which case the EKA code will not help. I hope I'm wrong on that.

But should still be able to open the door and fix/replace the switches

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
But should still be able to open the door and fix/replace the switches

Thanks @Datatek, think the next steps are to get the EKA code, try that, if that fails then check the key RF somehow and then that only leaves the barrel housing which should be picking up the signal.

Keep coming back to if when I slide the key in it starts slow blinking somethings happening

pwood999 · Oct 22, 2023

Better get yourself a Nanocom. Location might help in case someone near you has one !!

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2023

Ignition is passive, simply tells the fob to broadcast a signal instead of pressing a button

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

pwood999 said:
Better get yourself a Nanocom. Location might help in case someone near you has one !!

Thanks @pwood999, my mechanic will have one I’m sure bit he’s in Kinross and I’m in Wishaw so but if a jaunt. If anyone close by has one happy to Square up for the use of it

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Ignition is passive, simply tells the fob to broadcast a signal instead of pressing a button

Hmmmm so must be the fob then??

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2023

I wouldn't expect a regular mechanic would have anything to touch a p38. If they do, likely not nanocom

pwood999 · Oct 22, 2023

If you have a ohmmeter, check the door latch switches are operating. Procedure is in the Tech Archive at top of this forum.

kermit_rr · Oct 22, 2023

Rsjohnb said:
Hmmmm so must be the fob then??

Is the battery cover a bit loose? Mine was generally ok but sometimes needed to apply pressure to it while pressing the buttons. The led would flash but wouldn't send a valid signal

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

kermit_rr said:
Is the battery cover a bit loose? Mine was generally ok but sometimes needed to apply pressure to it while pressing the buttons. The led would flash but wouldn't send a valid signal

No it’s pretty tight on, I bought battery’s out the local store which after swapping found out there were duds so by the time I got other ones I’d went well past the two minute change window.

Gutted as she’s being going great too, 11k miles this year!

Rubberknees · Oct 22, 2023

Once you get EKA code and it works PM me with an email and I can send you a copy of syncing a dealer gave me to use if keys don't work after putting them in ignition

Rsjohnb · Oct 22, 2023

Rubberknees said:
Once you get EKA code and it works PM me with an email and I can send you a copy of syncing a dealer gave me to use if keys don't work after putting them in ignition

@Rubberknees thank you! I’ll do that

P38A I’ll be first person ever with a fob Sync problem 😂 help please!

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