Huge temp spike and leaky carb

thats much deeper job!

check rad while hot to see if its hot all over core if it isnt replace it .if top hose is hot thermostats working

fett said:

thats much deeper job!

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I wont be doing it, I'll be leaving that to the experts at Landrover Spares as they're trained to do it right

jamesmartin said:

check rad while hot to see if its hot all over core if it isnt replace it .if top hose is hot thermostats working

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I have disconnected the fuel tank as I'm welding near the back

But the top hose was hot as was the bottom, the rad was hot at the top and cold at the bottom

Dr_evil said:

I wont be doing it, I'll be leaving that to the experts at Landrover Spares as they're trained to do it right

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Sounds like a plan but int it time you sorted your temp issue instead of talking about it

haha well I'll order a new one on sunday night and fit it on monday so while my mate welds the chassis I'll work on the engine

Wont know if it works til I put the tank back on though at the end of the day

jams is right about the hose , but i think we are thinking your stat is lazy hence the temp spike not completly shut all the time so best to replace. its worth checking the rad too though

fett said:

jams is right about the hose , but i think we are thinking your stat is lazy hence the temp spike not completly shut all the time so best to replace. its worth checking the rad too though

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I'll replace the stat and then if that doesnt work I'll check the radiator and water pump

Will a larger rad fit like from a 4.6 as that would probably be more efficient

Also does the fact that I dont have an alternator fitted affect anything temp wise ?

maybe your guage.

larger rad good for hot place but not critical here

Ahh well I'm gonna be fitting a new custom dash once I give the measurements to the metalworkers that will fit a RR classic one into it

So hopefully the gauge problem should be fixed as its newer, also new 70amp alternator is on the way so that should help too

Out of question which one of these mounts do I need ?
All I can see coming out of the engine block at the mo is one long bolt thats a little bent so I'll have to straighten that up before mounting


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Thermostat arrived today so I'm hoping to fit it tomorrow if theres sun for an hour or two

A mate did say, would it matter that the temp gauge is from a 2.25 petrol rather than the V8 ? or are they the same gauge

no clue mate , mines got a 2 door range rover binnicle cos its a 2 door range rover

haha mines a mix of old parts thrown together in some pikey's garage before I rescued it


Might have to look into that one, I'm planning to put in a RRC gauge set at some point anyway as it's got a rev counter in it as well as all the other things I need

Rather surprised, just put the new thermostat in boiling water to test it and it only opened a couple of mil. I'da thought it would have opened all the way given that the water is 100* and the thermostat is meant to open at 82*

Is that normal for a waxstat or have I got a bad one, just want to make sure before fitting

how big a tub of water was it ,i just fit them and feel top hose

jamesmartin said:

how big a tub of water was it ,i just fit them and feel top hose

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So you dont recomending testing a Thermostat, then?

top hose tells you its working in actual working conditions

One litre tub, tested it twice once just dumping it in then secondly pouring it over the pin area

jamesmartin said:

top hose tells you its working in actual working conditions

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Yes but shouldn't an 82* thermostat be more than a couple of mil open in 100* water ?

Dr_evil said:

Yes but shouldn't an 82* thermostat be more than a couple of mil open in 100* water ?

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best to put the thermostat in water and bring to the boil. they dont react very quickly, but in answer to yo Q 0 yes it should open completely.