Huge temp spike and leaky carb

My temp spikes from nothing to about 3/4 even if I'm doing nothing.

I moved the 109 about 20 meters rather slowly just to get all the oil back round the system and moving in the diffs, the coolant mix is about 60/40 in favour of coolant.

Is this a case of water pump not working right ?

The top pipe was hot to the touch and the bottom cold so I guess the radiator is working so what can I do to cool this beast down further ?

Thanks



Also the carb has had a pipe cut on the front of it in order to re-route fuel from the pump through one split pipe coming off the other carb rather than one split pipe coming off the fuel pump or two single pipes on a divider, whats the best way to change the fuel flow ?

Take off the old cut pipe and put it back to a double off the pump or completely seal off the old inlet ?

Didn't work re-flushing with hose, still spiking.

Bit slower today but it was cooler out, put in a stronger mix of coolant too

Apparently it could be a spring in the thermostat being stuck closed an not allowing full flow through ?

Thats what someone told me, how do you go about checking of is it a case of entire front end off and just look

yeah its the stat I would say, take it out and see if it stops it hapening , or get a new one in but buy waxstat no ****part rubbish.

my carbs are set up that way which is standard l/r I think. if its not broke dont fix it.

if th epumps pumping as it should the fuel will get to both no probs

How do you take it out without losing the rad fluid ?

I know its meant to shut off flow in winter to make sure the engine doesnt freeze up but tbh I don't think a V8 isn't gonna be in much danger with how hot they get anyway

lol the idea is they shut the flow off to the rad to warm up the engine quicker so its not running on choke and killing you and it. in the winter without a stat it prob wouldnt warm fully up to temp at all which would do you and it no good as never at designed operating temp + gassing you with rich mix!

sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs here but there is a spring in wax when the wax goes soft in the hot water of the engine the spring opens the stat to let the water get to rad and cool down before it cooks your engine.

when stats are fooked they dont open or open late giving you your temp spike.

a good waxstat one is only about £5 just change it

oh and I think its about 90 degrees or a bit less they open on a 3.5 which I am guessing you have as its a carb model

fett said:

lol the idea is they shut the flow off to the rad to warm up the engine quicker so its not running on choke and killing you and it. in the winter without a stat it prob wouldnt warm fully up to temp at all which would do you and it no good as never at designed operating temp + gassing you with rich mix!

sorry if I am teaching you to suck eggs here but there is a spring in wax when the wax goes soft in the hot water of the engine the spring opens the stat to let the water get to rad and cool down before it cooks your engine.

when stats are fooked they dont open or open late giving you your temp spike.

a good waxstat one is only about £5 just change it

oh and I think its about 90 degrees or a bit less they open on a 3.5 which I am guessing you have as its a carb model

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haha no probs, the more I know the easier it'll be to fix in the end or when it happens again

I'll order one then and attempt to fit it, is it straight forward to do ? it appears to be at the base of the hose by the engine so it looks a bit awkward to get to

Found a V8 one for 88* on Craddocks so I'll probs go with that unless I can find a different one, would it also be possible that due to the age of the dials the dial itself is a little dodgy and reading high ?


And yes it is a 3.5 dual carb

yeah that sounds about right , make sure its an oem waxstat one not ****part though mate. if you take the parts number from craddocks and put it in on lrdirect it tells you the differnt brands you can choose!

I sucked all my coolant out of the expansion bottle and put a rag on the valley before taking the housing apart. I did loose a bit but not much. be carefull on the bolts as if you snap one your fooked.

you will need the stat housing gasket too which are about 11p lol

i did mine on a freezing cold jan night in the dark so yours will be cakewalk lol

fett said:

yeah that sounds about right , make sure its an oem waxstat one not ****part though mate. if you take the parts number from craddocks and put it in on lrdirect it tells you the differnt brands you can choose!

I sucked all my coolant out of the expansion bottle and put a rag on the valley before taking the housing apart. I did loose a bit but not much. be carefull on the bolts as if you snap one your fooked.

you will need the stat housing gasket too which are about 11p lol

i did mine on a freezing cold jan night in the dark so yours will be cakewalk lol

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haha well I found one on a site that says waxstat as the brand Thermostat for Land Rover Range Rover Classic V8 ETC4765 - 1992


How do you go about it then ? not the coolant bit the changing the thermostat

Do I have to take off the entire front end in order to get to it properly or can I get to it easily from the top
I'll drain it the way I did today I think, I put a PVC drain pipe onto the diff and let it drain out down into a box


Hope the bolts arent rusted though as I dont want to ruin the engine or have to take a drill to it

drain coolant , top hose off ,undo two bolts, take housing off take out stat put in new stat (with lil hole at 12 oclock) put hylomar on mating surfaces, put gaket on , put back together , do up bolts , put hose on, fill with coolant , run engine up tot temp with cap off untill water comes over the top, put cap on run/drive for abit. leave cap on over night to pull out any air locks. and top up in the morning to level

Ahhhhh, excellent that sounds much simpler than what I was imagining

I'll pop down to Landrover spares to see if they have any non Britpart parts or maybe Kentdale Landrover as they're a Landrover dealer.

I was thinking it was a hidden or covered bit like the water pump so I'd have to take off many other parts to get to it

Thanks Fett, hope this works if not it looks like it might be a water pump change or possibly the rad read on another thread though that changing the dial can work too but I'd rather eliminate this variable first

I'm putting a RR dash inside at some point before the MOT anyway just to give me a rev counter and everything in one block

they will be pricey at landrover lol

I'm going to remove the thermostat today or tomorrow I think and drop it in some hot water to test it

If it doesnt open I'll go buy a new one if it does I know I've got another problem to look for, once I've put the fuel tank back on I'll test the carb area by spraying some WD40 on the plate to see if its the head gasket as apparently if you do that and the engine runs better its the gasket, getting a new dash with instruments off a Jag fitted so thats going to eliminate the gauge as the problem as its new and then finally I'll look into getting the sender checked

Only other thing after that would be a compression test I guess, and a change of the water pump.

Today I've got the wire brush the chassis a bit more and trim some metal pieces for the inside of the rear crossmember as I'm building a winch mount for it

Ok mate , I think your a little mixed up there, spraying wd40 around your inlet maniflod with the engine running would check for induction leaks not hgf.

re the stat I would just put a new one in as your doing as much work anyway.

Ahhhh my bad, yeah I think I will as it'll save a bit of time in testing and then if it doesnt work I have to order one and take it apart again, might as well just do it all in one go

Then if that doesnt work I'll look into a new water pump

Oh and what temp one do I want ?

The V8 ones are all 88* but there are 74* ones for 300tdi's etc so would they fit or is 88* the best ?

These are all 82 for V8

Land Rover parts, spares, Land Rover accessories, all models - WAXSTAT

These are all 82 - 88 for a V8

Thermostat for Land Rover Series III 3.5 V8 Petrol 602687, ETC4765 - all

and this is the 74 from LR

http://www.rimmerbros.co.uk/Item--i-ETC4761

Theres also this one

Matt Savage Land Rover Parts V8



Not sure on which ones best LR or wax stat and what temp, what one do you suggest seeing as you've been through this before ?

Cheers

I got an 88 degree one from LR direct. make sure its a waxstat one!

Ok, will do. They all say Waxstat as the brand so I guess its alright

They're around £5 so should be about right, just debating what temp would be best.

Will it affect the engine if I get an 82 over the 88 ?

i went for 88 which is standard for uk cars as it warms the engine up to temp in our ****ty climate. the lower ones are for hotter countries. I have a 78 one in my 3.9 range rover as its all I had on the shelf when the old one broke and it doesnt get as hot as it used to now lol

haha ok thanks for the reply, I'll get ordering the Waxstat one over the LR one

Waxstat is around £3 cheaper anyway so a bit easier on the pocket, I'll put that saving towards the timing chain :L