Hub Nut Torque

I need to do the IRD driveshaft oil seal on my Td4. I only have a torque wrench that goes up to 210Nm, but that's nowhere near the prescribed 400Nm. I'm not paying £100+ for a large torque wrench I may use once in a blue moon either.

Now, being a good boy, I intend to replace the hub nut so I can't just tighten the old nut up to where the staking meets the notch on the driveshaft and knock it back down. Does anyone happen to know what the angle of turn would be after I get the new nut done up to 210Nm? I have an angle gauge, so surely it's just a simple case of using a breaker bar plus the gauge and going x degrees further clockwise.

Anyone know how much is x in this case though?

Is there any way to work it out?

I failed my A level maths 20-odd years ago as I simply could not grasp the applied section. Wish I'd studied harder now...

Could find a friendly local backstreet garage with a decent torque wrench and get them to check the nut tightness for you. Would only take a couple of minutes to do.

If all else fails, FT.

just use a large breaker bar .it only has to be tight

My first thoughts were VFT, but I'd like to be scientific about this if I can!

Ye Olde Haynes Manual suggests there are safety issues at stake if it's not done up correctly. Personally I think this is bollocks, as all that will happen is the wheel bearing will knock a bit if it's not tight enough.

However... I'll see if anyone can suggest a way of doing it, but if all else fails I'll take it to a a garage with a big wrench and get them to tighten it past the 210Nm point.

Or maybe do it VFT

To be honest , if you know what a tight bolt feels like and stake it, you cant go far wrong.

But as always , gotta say get a garage to torque it up

Breaker bar plus an extension tube and horse it over! Tight is the torque very tight!

Yes, I realise it's VERY tight.

Maybe what I'll do is torque the old nut up as far as my wrench will go and then see how much further it needs to go until the staking lines up. I could use this as a guide for the new nut. Genius...

That's what I did. If I remember I had a very cheap bendy bar torque lever and they go very high.

dont use old staking lines nut just has to be tight enough that you feel thread stretch as with any bolt it might not be with old staking point

jamesmartin said:

dont use old staking lines nut just has to be tight enough that you feel thread stretch as with any bolt it might not be with old staking point

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But he was going to use the old marks with the old nut as an indication of just how tight it has to be. I must admit on my last Hippo I just used a 2 feet bar and then added a 3 feet tube and tightens until it felt really tight! It seemed to be ok.

yes large bar is fine as you did,marks might line up when not full tight ,when i did my apprenticeship large nuts were done till they cracked (sound made )

You mean like when you do wheel nuts up and the make that cracking sound sometimes when they reach a certain point?

yes was taught it ,but it aint allways a 100 % as not all nuts do but the theory was that you knew by the time you had done a few that did ,what correct tight felt like

Yep, I know what you mean.

To be honest I've got a fair idea about what feels right as I've worked on my own vehicles for years, but I've never come across anything needing to be done up that tight!

Creeg, apologies for jumping in, I am back on my laptop now and was able to search this forum for an answer to my question (damn iphone wont search this webpage!)
Anyhow, is the seal easy enough to do? Noticed mine leaking today...ive fitted new diff to my freelander so am fairly handy, just never done a front end with big hib nuts...does the suspension arm swing away nicely once the driveshaft nut is undone or are there other bots to tae off first? cheers chaps and apologies this is adouble posting but I though whoever has replied to Creeg must have done the job before

I bought a Sealey AK629 torque multiplier for about £120 when changing my seal. Handy for tight bolts.

jamesmartin said:

yes large bar is fine as you did,marks might line up when not full tight ,when i did my apprenticeship large nuts were done till they cracked (sound made )

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Many years ago when working for Shell we lost a set of drive axle wheels in the Tyne Tunnel, after the court case we introduced Torque wrenches for all wheel nut tightening, if you don't know how tight a nut/bolt is (through experience) then use the correct torque wrench. Cracking nuts do not confirm that it has reached the correct tightness.

Joe,

No, I've not done it yet. I've got the parts sitting there waiting, but I need a few daylight hours to sort it out and they're in short supply at the mo.

Still, it's the shortest day in 3 weeks or so. S'looking up...

I'll let you know how it went when I finally get round to doing it.