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How to: Series 3 Swivel Replacement guide

Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by joe27979, Oct 3, 2013.

By joe27979 on Oct 3, 2013 at 8:04 PM
  1. joe27979

    joe27979 Well-Known Member

    Joined:
    Jun 1, 2009
    Posts:
    1,349
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    Location:
    west Norfolk
    Hi all,
    I'm taking pics step by step of my swivel replacement using the Britpart DA3181 kit.
    The kit was from Paddocks at £69.57+vat

    DA3181 | Swivel Housing Kit (later type with steering arm on the bottom - from mid 1960s)

    This is what you get:
    (library pic)
    [​IMG]

    First off put front axle on stands, I was replacing brake cylinders so I stripped all brake parts off:
    [​IMG]

    Next I had to remove free wheeling hubs so I marked em up
    [​IMG]

    and took cap off by undoing ring if Philip head screws, 6 of them:
    I then needed to put the gear back in to stop drive shaft turning when taking nut off, take split pin out of case and unscrew mechanism-put it back on shaft:
    [​IMG]

    remove castel nutand pull hub away:
    [​IMG]

    bend back washer and remove stub nuts, making note of order and pull off stub:

    [​IMG]
    [​IMG]

    to reveal:
    [​IMG]

    now check distance piece oil seal, mines rusty so will replace:
    [​IMG]

    next release tabs and remove brake back plate:
    [​IMG]

    more to follow.......
     
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Comments

Discussion in 'Technical Archive' started by joe27979, Oct 3, 2013.

    1. GingerPuss
      GingerPuss
      That is excellent mate.....well done. I like a good photo-guide.
    2. joe27979
      joe27979
      pull out driveshaft and inspect your joint..my hardy spicer looks ok and feels tight, but it's rusty and I can see pins in bearings-this normal?:
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]
      [​IMG]

      now take note if how many splines you have :

      [​IMG]

      housing with shaft removed:
      [​IMG]

      next release steering arm ball joints, and then undo bottom king pin:
      [​IMG]

      undo top king pin, keep all your shins in Order as a reference although new ball will require different amount of shims.

      lift housing off to reveal this, your bottom taper bearing will fall out:
      [​IMG]

      my balls were hidden under a leather pouch...they were pitted!!

      [​IMG]

      everything off:
      [​IMG]

      took pic off existing ball, I take it new one goes in the same way-sloping top in from vehicle to bottom away from vehicle??


      [​IMG]
    3. Rattlegun
      Rattlegun
    4. joe27979
      joe27979
    5. Rattlegun
      Rattlegun
      I didn't get bearings for the hubs as the timkens that were in there felt good. The swivel taper bearings and railko were the ones in the kit. It hasn't been driven yet though! Must update thread. Have you taken the swivels off yet? The six bolts are a total arse as they're whitworth. I slightly ground a 16mm spanner I think. I replaced them with M10 metric with nylocs on as they were in a poor state. I think I bought a bag of 100 if you want a dozen.
    6. joe27979
      joe27979
      swivels tomorrow...hopefully!!!
      Would love a dozen if you can spare em?
    7. samc88
      samc88
      The bearings with pins in them are roller bearings I think with pins instead of ball bearings
    8. joe27979
      joe27979
      yep they are roller but I've not seen them exposed before :-/
    9. divie
      divie
      Nice work there. When I did mine I modified the top swivel pin (kingpin) to make it greaseable by putting in lathe and drilling/tapping for grease nipple and a grease groove around the pin diameter. I also run free wheeling hubs and do not always lock em up every week or so. The odd pump of grease gives me piece of mind and does no harm mixed with the one shot lube.
    10. samc88
      samc88
      Oh I see what you mean now :eek: I have no idea sorry, will have a look at mine when I sort it out
    11. RobertP
      RobertP
      Good pictures. I'll be very interested to see how you get the half shafts back in. I found that was the worst part of the job. The long one was a real pig! :mad:
    12. Rubins4
      Rubins4
      Dear god I need this thread to finish before I start my front axle :eek: :D
    13. joe27979
      joe27979
      continued a bit tonight, off with the swivel-I found 15mm spinners suitable.
      Wire brushing and spraying with plusgas last night had them undo really easily:
      [​IMG]
      to reveal the axle oil seal...that I forgot to order!! doh!:

      [​IMG]

      back of swivel reveals a bearing:

      [​IMG]

      [​IMG]


      knocked out as it seems ok to reuse:
      [​IMG]

      tada:
      [​IMG]


      next was railko bush and new bottom taper bearing race:
      [​IMG]

      then slip on your new swivel seal and backing plate..

      [​IMG]

      bearing in new swivel:
      [​IMG]

      swivel hanging on two threads temporarily, popping to Landrover tomorrow to see if they have new axle seals in stock..gutted as I have a craddocks delivery tomorrow of new axle bolts that cost me £22 delivery charge!!!!

      [​IMG]

      remember washer inside railko bush!:
      [​IMG]



      more tomorrow if I get my oil seals, should be cleaning up swivel housing!
    14. Thor1950
      Thor1950
      you use new bearings and race?
    15. joe27979
      joe27979
      new bearing and race for bottom of swivel? yes..

      used old bearing in back of swivel-it has no race
    16. joe27979
      joe27979
      dunno wether to stick ep90 back in or the grease...surely the needle rollers in shaft uj work better in oil rather than grease? I guess it's the age old question!
    17. Blackburn
      Blackburn
      Disc in Railco bush should be soaked in EP90 before ftting.
    18. joe27979
      joe27979
      good tip!

      I'm now off to get a new axle seal and swivel half shaft bearing...thought I might as well, Landrover say 244150 is now obsolete so I'm driving an hour away to get a couple...grrrr
    19. jamesmartin
      jamesmartin
      it does its on half shaft