How to replace the 19J injectors?

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surf_n_ride

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Anyone out there are familiar with replacing the 19j Injectors? It look straight forward up to the point with the injector close to the firewall of the engine, it seems like it need to be connected by welding?

Any ideas and tips are greatly appreciated.

Many thanks in advance.
 
Nope, undo the bolts and they will lift out, well when I say lift, I mean lots of encouragment and some swearing...
 
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I usually have to tap them a bit with a hammer before I prize them out with a screw driver! Before you buy new ones, give them a spray with brake cleaner solution and drop them back in to see if it improves the performance. The tips tend to build up with ****e.

-Pos
 
Brake cleaner? Get in there with a wire brush and a sharp edge to scrape built up carbon and give them a clean, knock all the carbon off them and check the tips for cracks etc. You want to see how they prepare injectors, there is no faffing about here.
 
discomania said:
Brake cleaner? Get in there with a wire brush and a sharp edge to scrape built up carbon and give them a clean, knock all the carbon off them and check the tips for cracks etc. You want to see how they prepare injectors, there is no faffing about here.
Click to expand...

Haha, thats how I've always done it, it works a treat, i've got a nice grubby wire brush and plenty of white spirit to scrub them down with afterwards.
 
Thanks guys for responding.
Does each injector hole have a designated injector?

After hours of "swearing and Encouragment" (Discomania) and replacing new injectors, what else do i need to do? do i need to purge the fuel system at the lift pump so i can start again?:)
 
Bang em in any hole (the injectors that is!) :D. If you are luckey you might get away with just turning the engine over a bit without having to bleed the system. Otherwise just leave the pipes from the injector pump loose (on the injectors) then as you (or better still av sumone else to crank the engine) wait for pure fuel to seep from each injector then tighten them up. If for any reason you don't get any fuel from all the pipes you may have to bleed your way through the fuel system. (this shouldn't happen though) on top of your injector pump you will find a small bleed screw, loosen that then crank to see if fuel escapes if/when it does lock it off then bleed the injectors. If not go to the fuel filter housing and loosen the bleed screw on that and crank again then work back to the injectors. You shouldn't have to go that far after replacing the injectors though.
 
Did you replace the injector washers? If you were lucky when you removed the old injectors, there should have been a copper washer around the ridge, a few centimetres off the tip of the injector. There are also two alloy washers on either side of the fuel return pipe which should be renewed. If you didn't replace them , it'd be worth your while doing so. They'll allow compression to escape, as well as fuel if they're goosed!

-Pos
 
Pos is right, good idea to replace these, however if you forgot to get them fear not, the copper injector washer can be annealed.

A copper or ali washer relies on deforming to make the seal, they are soft metals that crush up and deform to the shape of the mating surfaces.

You can easily get this function back by a very simple process called annealing:

Get some pliers or something. Clean the washer and take it to a heat source (kitchen). Gas cooker? Or some other source of HOT flame. You need to get it hot enough, but obviously not melt it. You need to get copper 'dull red'. Roast it until it glows a dull red.

Swap sides you are holding it because the heat will travel up the pliers, so change half way keeping it in the flame and heat it evenly.

DO NOT quench it in water, that’s it washer annealed.

With ali washers put some washing up liquid on them, when it bubbles and turns to a black deposit that’s how you know you have heated the ali sufficiently.

Clean them up if need be and fit, or take the next steps for a super good seal. This process will only really work on flat washers. Take the annealed washer, and sit it on a clean flat FILE, push the WASHER down the surface of the file once, then turn 90 degrees and push the washer down the file again. You have now crosshatched it. Get some red sealant or the like, and put a little on your fingers, then rub it into the washer. You now have an annealed washer with little channels full of sealant, when torqued down you will crush up the washer and the sealant will just help everything along beautifully.
 
It don't matter if you quench in cold water as the rate of cooling has no effect.
It just means you dont burn your fingers when you pick it up thinking it has cooled enough. Its surprising how long a copper washer will hold the heat. Dont ask how I know but my finger prints are somewhat circular.

Old school plumbers were taught to anneal copper tube and quench in cold water before using bending springs purely so the pipe would bend with less effort and so that they would not take all day fitting your outside tap waiting for things to cool down. Modern plumbers just use push fit plastic elbows which take up more room and look ****e.
 
On the subject of plumbers - at the hourly rate they charge these days for what is ibasicly connecting up a giant lego set of plastic connectors I would love them to use these so they can hurry up and get the hell off me propertiy before they run my bank ballance into the ground.

But would usualy just do it myslef...................
 
You seen that new "copper glue" stuff, you use end feeds and paint on the solvent stuff then bang in the pipes. Looks dodgy to me.
 
Shifty1962 said:
It don't matter if you quench in cold water as the rate of cooling has no effect.
It just means you dont burn your fingers when you pick it up thinking it has cooled enough. Its surprising how long a copper washer will hold the heat. Dont ask how I know but my finger prints are somewhat circular.

Old school plumbers were taught to anneal copper tube and quench in cold water before using bending springs purely so the pipe would bend with less effort and so that they would not take all day fitting your outside tap waiting for things to cool down. Modern plumbers just use push fit plastic elbows which take up more room and look ****e.
Click to expand...

We were always taught at school that quenching a hot metal when annealing it will make it brittle. Is that bullpoop?
 
I finally got my injectors replaced, with a little help from a mechanic.

It was a challenge, the most challenging part is to get the engine started. going through this process i have learn a few things along the line, here are some tips i will like to share with you all:

1)make sure you have good glow plugs otherwise have someone to standby with their car to charge your battery.
2)Make sure the connection pipes are flush with the injectors otherwise it will leak.
3) Replace copper washers to avoid leaks.
4) Change injectors went the engine is warm, it easier that way or do them one at a time and start the engine and bleed every time one of the injectors is replaced.

I hope these tips will help the other person to do the job easier.

Thanks again to all those who help me and people who posted in this forum.
 
surf_n_ride said:
I forgot to say, that there is more horse power and torque when the new injectors were put in.
Click to expand...
Can I ask the approximate cost of the new injectors please. I was told they could be somewhere from 20 quid to 80 quid each depending on the vehicle:eek:
 
Yeah easy job. When you're putting the new'uns in, be careful of the fine tips as they're very easily damaged.

Also, be careful when you're removing the spill/return piping from the tops of the injectors - it can be brittle and can snap easily if you're being a bit too heavy handed with it. I broke mine when doing my injectors and it's £30 from LR for a bit of thin plastic piping!!

Edit: My bad for not reading the last posts :D
 
a single refurbished injector cost 18 quid and a new one cost 25 quid at John Craddock, and if you live in the UK its free shipping.
 
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