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take some pics
How to hand paint a landy(with pictures)
- Thread starter landrover11019
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take some pics
chris123321
New Member
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- 31
Ill try and whip some up.
Have taken the front bumper into my spare room, cranked the heating, flatted it back and layed on the thinnest coat i thought possible (loaded roller up, took off as much excess paint as possible and that was enough for the whole bumper)
And yet, still some orange peel.
Maybe I'm being picky, will see after 1 more coat.
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could be the roller. you tried laying off with a brush? youtube it
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
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thx, will try some of that
honolulujoe
Well-Known Member
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are you using a brush? I tried one of those cheap brush packs thinking they are so cheap I can just lob them and not have to clean them. They were worse than useless, I got that effect, might as well have used a fork.
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as anything, you usually need quality kit. purdy brushes are nice.
and if you lay off with a brush, then you do it horizontally. idea being you smooth the roller out and allow the paint to flow together.
and if you lay off with a brush, then you do it horizontally. idea being you smooth the roller out and allow the paint to flow together.
Maroondestroyer
Active Member
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A great post with a lot of knowledge and info provided. Has most people painted/rolled straight onto the vehicle, or removed panels and doors?
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Unfortunately I cannot see any of these pictures because it talks about updating account to support 3rd party hosting.
Shame.
Shame.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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Same over most of the forum. Photobucket decided to change their business model. Free accounts that supported third party hosting suddenly cost $300 dollars a year!
Most didn't bother, including me.
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I use Postimg.org it costs about 30/yr and provides direct links.Same over most of the forum. Photobucket decided to change their business model. Free accounts that supported third party hosting suddenly cost $300 dollars a year!
Most didn't bother, including me.
Turboman
Mab An Gov
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I have all the pics I had posted off PB on a hard drive.
One day, I might get round to reposting them direct, but seeing as there were about 800 of them, it may take some time.
landyboots
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Hi all. Hope you are well......I'd like to revive this thread. I am planning on hand painting my classic Range Rover soon and a lot of the pics of similar efforts are no longer available. Has anyone else done this type of job in the interim? Any pics and advice would be very welcome.
Thanking you in anticipation.
Thanking you in anticipation.
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
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Your going to struggle on smooth panels with no experience. The reason people get away with it on defender or series models is because they are full of rivets and have reasonably small flat areas.
It’s not an easy task and you will risk completely destroying the finish as has been proven many times.
If you use a roller you will get a degree of stippling dependant on thickness of coat and viscosity of paint and if you brush it you will get some brush marks, made worse when going round anything curved.
It’s a balancing act that comes naturally to a painter. A bit like a good stick welder. He never knows just how the bead will go down until the sparks start flying but by experience his welding rod will be adjusted via distance and speed to achieve the best result.
The ideal brush application is at maximum weight. In other words at a thickness that is at the point of running and creating curtains but not quite. Having said that, synthetic enamel skin dries reasonably quickly leaving the paint under the surface to continue moving for more time that is comfortable. This risks runs you can’t go back into due to the risk of pulling up the surface into a complete mess. Also synthetic enamel oxidises rather than evaporates to dry. Again if it’s too thick the drying surface can starve the underneath of air and make it soft for weeks.
I wouldn’t attempt an acceptable (for me) brush or roller finish with modern paints. Fine for an old shed but miles away from a good paint job.
You can pick up a small DIY compressor and gun for a couple of hundred quid And with a few hours practice on an old bonnet make yourself a reasonable attempt.
Everyone will recommend big expensive gear but with a small cheap set up at a panel at a time you’ll crap all over any brush job.
neilly
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landyboots
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Nothing spectacular but something tidy if possible. I have been looking at coach paint in high gloss Lincoln Green which looks nice.....
landyboots
Active Member
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A lot of helpful info there. Thanks for that. I was planning on using coach paint from paintman which I believe is made especially for Brush/Roller hand painting techniques. I am not looking for a spectacular finish. Just something acceptable which would be a huge improvement on the current lacquer shedding blistered mess. It's my daily workhorse so I am not looking for a show car finish.....
Cheers.
Marmaduke
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This was my experience of paddocks paint but a different type of roller might help. The paint has little bubbles in it when rollered with screwfix mini rollers which pop as the paint dries giving the orange peely look
https://www.landyzone.co.uk/land-rover/scot-and-ben.289532/page-4
Bobsticle
De Villes Advocaat
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Youd be as well getting half a gallon of dulux gloss. The formula isnt that much different and itll dry slightly slower so the paint will relax more and youll end up with less brush or roller marks. Pound for pound it also has more pigment in it and more solids at a similar size so the finish will be shiner and almost as hard. Early enamel was called so to identify the size of the solids. It was ground finer to give a better finish but these days a top quality domestic 'trade' gloss is as good as an old school enamel. ICI produced most of the countries pigments so you got more in Dulux their paint company. This tradition is being held up by todays Dutch owners.
Prep as normal, one coat of thinned undercoat, one coat of thinned 50/50 undercoat and gloss then a final coat of thinned gloss will give you a very good finish indeed. Cutting back to smooth with a fine wet and dry between coats. Dont be tempted to get dulux from anywhere other than a trade center as B&Q and the like stock a DIY formula of dulux and it is made for out of the can application. Its not a patch on the real gear that has to be thinned for any use never mind flatwork. Oh and use white spirit not turps substitute from the same Dulux Decorators Center. Its important
Try and use a good quality 'USED' brush to lay the paint off. Even a house painter wouldnt dream of using a new brush for a front door never mind steel. They must be worn in over time and ask any decorator that knows his onions and he will tell you. A new brush only goes in emulsion for at least six months.
