Hi All - Im new, with some Questions..

Hi Everyone

New to this forum and Land Rovers. Just bought a 300TDi, and have a few probs.

On over run I get a vibration through the floor, think this could possibly be the props?

Rear leccy windows dont work, cant find a thing wrong, fuses switches etc all look ok!

Alarm not working, put new plip batteries in ...no joy! (drivers door lock not working, possibly related?) but the plip does nothing to make the alarm work.

Anyone know where I can buy a torque deflector to tension the cambelt?

Thanks in advance.

Pete

at the top where it says search i dare say if you type each problem in their will be a topic on each one on here and you will get your answers if not soon enough a guy or many guys will help there a very good group on here

peteluc said:

Hi Everyone

New to this forum and Land Rovers. Just bought a 300TDi, and have a few probs.

On over run I get a vibration through the floor, think this could possibly be the props?

Rear leccy windows dont work, cant find a thing wrong, fuses switches etc all look ok!

Alarm not working, put new plip batteries in ...no joy! (drivers door lock not working, possibly related?) but the plip does nothing to make the alarm work.

Anyone know where I can buy a torque deflector to tension the cambelt?

Thanks in advance.

Pete

Click to expand...

Do a search for electric windows fix on here, took me about 15 mins to sort mine with a bit of soldering the other day.

I'm guessing the door lock spring has gone, can you open the door if you hold the latch up? If yes then you can get the springs on ebay for next to nothing.

When mine suffered with vibration, it turned out to be a very sh*gged rubber doughnut on the rear prop, have a peak underneath just in front of the rear wheels and see what state it's in.

The remote might want re-programming, if it is the single button type this might help.



Procedure for re-programming Landrover discovery remote transmitters.

Start with the doors shut,
drivers’ window open, bonnet up but the bonnet switch held down (I use a tin of paint or something similar) and the key in the ignition.

The first part of the procedure has to be completed within ten seconds.

Ignition on
ignition off
lock doors (using the sill switch)
unlock doors (using the sill switch)
move the tin of paint, (or release the bonnet switch)
lock doors (using the sill switch)
unlock doors (using the sill switch)
ignition on
ignition off


if you carried the above out correctly the horn should have sounded momentarily, the indicators flashed and the red LED indicator on the dash should now be illuminated. If not you must start again.


Now press and hold the first transmitter button, the light on the transmitter should flash rapidly while receiving the signal from the system and after about five seconds the LED on the dashboard should blink once and remain lit, that is the first one done.
Now press and hold the second transmitter button and the same thing should happen to the light on the transmitter and after about five seconds the red LED on the dashboard will go out.

Job done!!

If (like me) you only have one working transmitter you can do it to the same one twice to complete the sequence on the car.

I have done this many times without any problems and with a bit of practice and forethought it can be done in less than two minutes

And welcome to the world of Landy's bye the way.

:welcome: to LZ

Where are you mate? Windows is quite an easy fix if you know what you are doing...

Thanks for the reply chaps

Im in Hemel, Hertfordshire.

I will do a search on the rear windows, ive looked at the door lock on the drivers side looks like part of the plastic mechanism has given up.

Thanks again everyone

PS - are 300tdis supposed to be that bloody slow!

peteluc said:

Thanks for the reply chaps

Im in Hemel, Hertfordshire.

I will do a search on the rear windows, ive looked at the door lock on the drivers side looks like part of the plastic mechanism has given up.

Thanks again everyone

PS - are 300tdis supposed to be that bloody slow!

Click to expand...

When you say part of the plastic mechanism on the door lock has given up, do you mean that the lock catch pops up and falls straight back down?

Here's where to go for your window fix guide Fixing non functional rear windows. Really is a very quick easy job.

peteluc said:

Thanks for the reply chaps

Im in Hemel, Hertfordshire.

I will do a search on the rear windows, ive looked at the door lock on the drivers side looks like part of the plastic mechanism has given up.

Thanks again everyone

PS - are 300tdis supposed to be that bloody slow!

Click to expand...

Remember that Disco's weigh about 2100kgs and only have 111bhp (manual gearbox) so they are NEVER going to be quick.

However there are a couple of cheap mods that you can do to improve things. But before you go down that road make sure, by giving it a full service, that yours is running properly.

New oils, new filters (kit of all three filters from www.paddockspares.com for only £6.28+vat) and clean out the fuel sedimenter.

Also, if you haven't yet got one, get yourself a Haynes manual. You'll need it !!!!!

Cheers and good luck

Dave

Hi all im poppy

:welcome: to LZ poppy..................... hope you enjoy the site

Thanks for the welcome all

Aviator - thanks for that tip, alarm and plips are spot on.

Flex - again thanks for that tip, i had a dry soldered joint on the ECU! Cleaned, re- soldered, now fine!

The big lad - Ordered all genuine bits from paddock and a cambelt kit and loadsa other odds and sods all for 120quid which i thought was very reasonable! (oh and i do have a very used Haynes manual).
Also going to block the EGR see how that goes..

Then just vibration on over run to sort