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eightinavee said:
Are the plugs for the fuel rail temp and coolant temp swapped?
Have you done a compression test ?
Does it run Oxy sensors/Cats ? Probably not at 1990,but we need to know.
Has the fuel rail pressure been checked to see that it goes up and down according to demand ?
Click to expand...

No cats, dont know what you mean by "Are the plugs for the fuel rail temp and coolant temp swapped?" do you mean swapped over by accident?

Tell me where thay are and which way round they should be and I will go an have a look, it would be great is thats all it was:D

I ahvnt done a comprssion test (mainly beacuase I dont want to know) but it doesnt use any oil at all.

Thanks for the ideas, let me know about the plugs-swap thing
 
Fett me boy.
If you want to check Timing, compression or even the ecu. I have the tools and the same ecu. And seeing as the rangie aint on the road I can bring down.
 
Khryztal said:
Fett me boy.
If you want to check Timing, compression or even the ecu. I have the tools and the same ecu. And seeing as the rangie aint on the road I can bring down.
Click to expand...


K man you are my hereo!

Do you want to do it when you come for your job on the Island?:welcome2:
 
Can someone please tell me

If I unplug the wires to the stepper with the engine at idle should it make any difference?
 
fett said:
Can someone please tell me

If I unplug the wires to the stepper with the engine at idle should it make any difference?
Click to expand...
No it should carry on at the same speed unless the load on the engine changes.(It will log a fault code by doing it tho - so that code will stay there till its cleared via testbook etc.)
The plug on the fuel rail and coolant temp sensors are the same and the actual sensors are close to each other,look at the injector rail - the sensor is near or at the front of it.Close to it on the inlet manifold is the coolant sensor.
What happens when the plugs get swopped is the ecu only sees the coolant temp get up to 30 or 40 degrees - this is all the fuel gets up to.This makes the ecu provide a rich mixture as part of the warm up cycle.Seen it happen more than once,cant remember the colours of the wires,you'll have to look them up.
Not using any oil does not mean you will have good compression,it can escape via the valves and head gasket too.
 
Ok a bit of an update, and thanks for the answers on stepper unplug.

Just been out in the dark and rain (carport) swapped the brand new stepper for the old one and it actually runs better, so ****part are true to their name!

Looked for loose sparks in the dark and yes there are some particuarly the king lead where it goes past the back of the alternator.

also some but not often on the leads atop the dizzy cap, very hard to see which ones!

These were brand new lucas leads only a few months old, prbably been doing this the whole time,what the hell are you supposed to do-send em back? where can you get decent parts arghh!!

Anyway we (definaly not me but my mate from work, when timing the beast up) pulled the wires off from those sensor for temp, pretty sure we pu them back righ as it ran the same before and after, also sureley it would be overfueling even more crazy than now right? 9.3mpg round town 12.6 on motorway at 65 mph run
 
fett said:
Looked for loose sparks in the dark and yes there are some particuarly the king lead where it goes past the back of the alternator.

also some but not often on the leads atop the dizzy cap, very hard to see which ones!

These were brand new lucas leads only a few months old, prbably been doing this the whole time,what the hell are you supposed to do-send em back? where can you get decent parts arghh!!
Click to expand...
Did you change the dizzy cap too? if not and there was arcing before you changed the leads then there could be carbon tracks burned into the cap causing your continued sparking.
 
The leads and cap dont matter a s-it if the rotor is a rubbish one - ALL the HT components need to be good quality and in good nick,high tension electricity will find the easiest path to complete its circuit,so if the rotor wont pass the current it will escape around the cap - no matter how good the leads or cap are.If the coolant and fuel temp sensors are in the right place thats good - its worth a mention as I've seen it more than once.
 
eightinavee said:
The leads and cap dont matter a s-it if the rotor is a rubbish one - ALL the HT components need to be good quality and in good nick,high tension electricity will find the easiest path to complete its circuit,so if the rotor wont pass the current it will escape around the cap - no matter how good the leads or cap are.If the coolant and fuel temp sensors are in the right place thats good - its worth a mention as I've seen it more than once.
Click to expand...

ahhh iwise man i do see.:D:D:D

yep me leads wernt cheap and the dizzy is eletronic with a new cap.worked sweet with well clipped leads
 
It was all new cap leads rotor and they were all genuine lucas . so why the hell are the leads tracking!! and it is just the leads.

Just been out in it and noticed that the idle although low isnt too bad sometimes but if its left to idle some times revs will drop right of/possibly missing very very slightly and then it will all pick up agian back to about 500 rpm in neutral. I am guessing this could be the leads??? or atleas partly the leads.

Should I try and get my money back on them?

Any more Ideas?
 
fett said:
It was all new cap leads rotor and they were all genuine lucas . so why the hell are the leads tracking!! and it is just the leads.

Just been out in it and noticed that the idle although low isnt too bad sometimes but if its left to idle some times revs will drop right of/possibly missing very very slightly and then it will all pick up agian back to about 500 rpm in neutral. I am guessing this could be the leads??? or atleas partly the leads.

Should I try and get my money back on them?

Any more Ideas?
Click to expand...

It might sound silly but have you go the leads correctly routed and clipped into place. It is not unknown for misfires to be caused by ht leads touching. Check Haynes/Rave/Workshop manual for correct routing of leads and see if it makes a difference.
 
If the plugs are fouled or have too wide gaps you will get the same result.Also is the dizzy has been removed and put back one tooth out the gap between the end of the rotor and the peg inside the cap will be too big.I often see dizzy's in Rover v8's screwed right round from where they should be positioned.Best to check out the correct setting in the book.
 
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