help!!!!!!p38 stalling

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gti power

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123
hi guys 1/2 way through a gas conversion and have fitted my cut injector loom but due to bad weather we got rained of yesterday so now we have justed plugged the cut injector loom into the gas ecu to close the injector circuit. i spoke to tinley tech and they said it would be fine to do this.
i have since done aprox 30miles in it since this and has been fine, i went to work this morning with no prob's went to fetch a oil filter at 12 and came back did a oil and filter change then left for home in the terrible rain 4miles down the road it start's missfiring reving irraticly i did have the fuel light on so i thought maybe im lower than i thought went to a petrol station put in some fuel and off i went then it started again this time cutting out.........look's like it was not lack of fuel.
i thought maybe it was due to the amount of rain,puddles etc maybe something got wet anyway has a quick look checked the ht lead's were still intact,checked the cut injector loom etc nothing seemed wrong again it started and ran irraticly so i managed to get home have checked over it again nothing seem's wrong i have come in for a warm drink and to post this due to a heavy downpoor but will return shortly has anyone got any idea's?
seem like will be a pain due to the work i have done could be the cause or am i being parranoid and the bad weather has caused this somewhere?
 
i don't think the rain should have affected it as its not a freelander, mr tinley seems to know his beans i spoke with him at billing about 4 years ago and he was a proper ok chap(i was camping next to him) check all your connections and give them a squirt of wd40 just to be sure, it might just be you have picked up some crap fuel from the bottom of you fuel tank
 
hi guys been out all day still no better removed fuel filter and blew into a tub seemed ok but there was a split o ring re-fitted and seemed ok but then realised it was leaking due to o ring so ran up to local car spare's and got o ring re-fitted and found faulty again, could filter still be blocked i had this on a friend's 306 and it ran fine after blowing filter out but replaced anyway the day after.
thought about bypassing the filter with some hose and jubliee clip's but not sure due to low fuel if is any dirt it will go straight into injector's.
removed plenum and checked all cut injetcor wire's and found had 4.5v down to all is this correct? also 4.5v on fuel pressure rail?
checked that there is a spark when removing the ht lead and found that there was but when car run's even though very lumpy and wiggle ht lead's it did idle irraticly is this coincidence?
i think due to the very poor idle its some how idle control related?is there a way of checking this and where is it located?
also noticed the throttle body has some sort of choke which on mine seems to have been repaired by cow boy's with a loop of wire holding it to the accelerator cable, this im thinking could be a cause?
its now idling irraticly between 1200rpm and 2000rpm.
im stuck guy's help
 
spoke to a guy who say's blow compressed air into thefuel line from the tank with the filler cap off this will allow any crap in the tank to come away from a filter in the tank has anyone done this?
 
was told due to replacing the valley gasket if slightly leaking could cause oil to be drawn into cylinder causing hunting/missing.so stripped it all back down and all seem's well so re assembled to find again ran ok took round block few times all ok went to local offlicence coming back its starts again........aprox 2 miles and its started ahhhhhhhhhh help.
have found all injector's have same resistance and the cut injector loom (petrol) seem's to have between 1.7 ohm's and 2.2ohm's on both bank's this i would say seem's ok anyone know any different?
i really need to fix this guy's anyone else know anything? im so frustrated new to landrover but i have been a vw techniacin for 3yrs now and feel like im failing in my trade due to not being able to fix it.
i think tomorrow i may put all the cut injetor loom back to normal and see what's what
 
was told due to replacing the valley gasket if slightly leaking could cause oil to be drawn into cylinder causing hunting/missing.so stripped it all back down and all seem's well so re assembled to find again ran ok took round block few times all ok went to local offlicence coming back its starts again........aprox 2 miles and its started ahhhhhhhhhh help.
have found all injector's have same resistance and the cut injector loom (petrol) seem's to have between 1.7 ohm's and 2.2ohm's on both bank's this i would say seem's ok anyone know any different?
i really need to fix this guy's anyone else know anything? im so frustrated new to landrover but i have been a vw techniacin for 3yrs now and feel like im failing in my trade due to not being able to fix it.
i think tomorrow i may put all the cut injetor loom back to normal and see what's what

It is reasonable for the individual injectors themselves to have a resistance of around 2.2 ohms if they are high impedance injectors, if they were low impedance injectors they would have a resistance of around 7 to 10 ohms.

However, I would worry if the loom itself had a resistance of any significance as copper wire is supposed to off a negligile resistance. The only way you should see a resistance in the loom is if there are ballast resistors in there.
 
It is reasonable for the individual injectors themselves to have a resistance of around 2.2 ohms if they are high impedance injectors, if they were low impedance injectors they would have a resistance of around 7 to 10 ohms.

However, I would worry if the loom itself had a resistance of any significance as copper wire is supposed to off a negligile resistance. The only way you should see a resistance in the loom is if there are ballast resistors in there.
sorry you have lost me? wire will allway's have resistance but how much depend's on lenght/diamiter?
 
sorry you have lost me? wire will allway's have resistance but how much depend's on lenght/diamiter?

Hence my use of the word negligible, resistance yes but very very low, we have yet to develop the perfect conductor. Copper wire itself has negligible resistance, problems come when you try to stick too much current down too small a wire, then heat occurs and resistance increases.....

If your meter shows 2.2 ohms for a wire in your loom then I would suggest there is a problem, bearing in mind that a normal multi-meter is using milli-amps to perform this test. A multimeter should show normal copper wire in a loom as 0 ohms.
 
right i have done it .......................i think i lay in bed and realised when cold its ok when i have drove 3ish miles it start's missing......the cut injector looms is switching over to gas but due to no feed's from tank yet it does not know there is no gas.
so i ran tinley tech and rang a few local lpg fitter's no no they said i cant's see this being the case as you have not given the gas ecu a live and earth and you have not completed the wiring.so im thinking right if i give the ecu a live and a earth and fit the switch i then had the intension to select petrol on the gas switch but it ran a sequence with the led's are the manual say's and then illuminat's that its on petrol i have now done 15 miles and found no problem's...............coincidence? or was it trying to switch to gas?
 
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