HELP-. Oil Sump Plug wont come out!!

I've decided to do my oil change on the wet weekend and am having no end of problems.

I've added the engin flush and run it for 15 mins as required and i've come to take the nut off and it wont shift.

Im turning it anti clock and it wont shift i've tried clock and still no go, the enging has cooled abit and ist still not shifting. and its just not me 3 people have had a go and no one can get it to budge. its also been covered in WD40 with no change.

Are they normally this difficult or should their be something i should do..


Many Thanks


Wappy...

bigger bar?

err
how did you get it out to drain the oil before filling with engine flush?

I had this a couple of weeks back on td5 **** it was tight i used about a 2 foot bar and hex socket it came out and all was ok, but once a gain it was bloody tight and i aint small

Treworgey

its the flush you add to the old oil..


goonarmy

I'll see what i can find..


BTW do you turn it anti clock or is it left hand thread?

Tahnks

although that got me in this trouble in te first place http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f10/sheared-ing-bolt-58680.html.
Have you tried shocking it first?Not to hard though!

i guess you put the drain plug back in cross-threaded.
big bar / big hammer is your only alternative in that case.
you might be lucky and just have damaged the threads on the sump plug. otherwise it's time for a new sump.

its normal way

Violence and swearing are tools of choice like trewy sed

The-Wappy-One said:

Treworgey

its the flush you add to the old oil..

Click to expand...

never heard of that.
surely that means you've run the engine over-filled for 15min?

yes, it's a normal thread - anticlockwise to remove.
I think it's a tapered thread, so an initial shock may be needed to get it moving.

what sort of head does the plug have on it?
hex
square (male)
square (female)
other.

if all else fails - slide a tube down the dipstick tube and suck the oil out - thats how some garridges do it.

Treworgey 90 said:

i guess you put the drain plug back in cross-threaded.
you might be lucky and just have damaged the threads on the sump plug. otherwise it's time for a new sump.

Click to expand...

Not really. This happens often with all vehicles. At the very worst he will have to by a mildly oversize plug. You can often find self-tapping plugs. If not, he can borrow the appropriate tap and have it done in a minute or two.

take it for a drive first, get the oil hot, then get a big bar on it, they are a bastard for sticking on 200tdi's

Try using a breaker bar?

The-Wappy-One said:

Treworgey

its the flush you add to the old oil..


goonarmy

I'll see what i can find.. I use the brown bar you get as part of the wheel removal kit. Take the rubber grip of your ratchet driver and slip the bar over it - gives loads more leverage.


BTW do you turn it anti clock or is it left hand thread? Anticlockwise

Tahnks

Click to expand...

Cheers
Dave

As already stated BIG BAR and steady pressure

Changed my oil yesterday and the sump plug was tight to say the least .............. just remember when doing it back up that ............ "tights tight ......... too tights fooked!"

It just sounds like any other job on a landrover, when they find a job that can be done two ways one easy and one hard they always pick the hard way, just think of the way the oil level is checked in the past every car came with a dip stick to check it which is easy to use and easy to manufacture anyone can do it as long as they can reach it so landrover decide to fit an electronic sensor which does the job until it fails which can happen to any manufacture so normal manufacturers would fall back on using the dipstick, but landrover being landrover they decide to remove the dipstick (they removed the dipstick but kept the dipstick tube and the dipstick top end with the o ring to prevent oil spillage) so in the end they saved around £0.01 of steel but had to fit the electronic sensor costing around £25 so no saving for landrover owners, so now it is ment to be easier to check but due to the way they made it to check run engine to working temperature then wait until the oil has drained back into the sump then check the level via the sensor but when the sensor stops working you have no way to check the level so out you go to buy a new level sensor come back home thinking you now have a quick easy job to fit it you take a look where it should be and find out that land-rover had in their infinite wisdom decided not to put it where jaguar had fitted it (they were the other manufacture who used the same engine and sensor but they fitted the sensor external to the engine) the engine landrover use is identical to the jaguar one it has all of the same parts and mounting points so there was no reason for landrover to change the mounting position. What landrover ended up with was a saving of around £0.01 for the saving of not fitting a real dip stick plus a Loss of around £25 for the oil level sensor then the extra cost to the user of around £150 for the extra labour cost every time the sensor stops working, so in the end they would have been better off not doing anything to change the old perfect way of checking the oil level.

This weeks winner of the oldest thread ressurected this week awarded on a week by week basis, 16 years.

The real question is ... is @The-Wappy-One still under his car trying to get the sump plug out ?

New poster, searching through old threads..... Dont be too hard, I've done it by mistake on my phone....