Disco 2 help needed on rear shock mount

This site contains affiliate links for which LandyZone may be compensated if you make a purchase.

kevin coombes

New Member
Posts
4
Location
somerset
I have had my rear shock mount replaced after it had rusted away from chassis and within a day of driving it just comes off the chassis. The chassis has been welded with 3mm plate and then mount welded to that. But just dont seem to wanna stay there. Any ideas of how to fix this.
image-20160805_084705.jpg
image-20160805_084705.jpg
 

Attachments

  • image-20160820_101954.jpg
    image-20160820_101954.jpg
    484.5 KB · Views: 2,759
  • image-20160820_114932.jpg
    image-20160820_114932.jpg
    387 KB · Views: 1,015
  • image-20160820_134049.jpg
    image-20160820_134049.jpg
    551 KB · Views: 2,578
Regardless the thickness of steel used, the backing as seen there is just not strong enough. Sort of like welding on slag. That whole section of chassis appears to have corroded. See, thing is, the shock absorber by virtue of its damping action imparts large shearing forces on its mounting points. You're gonna have to repair the chassis legs properly to get some strength back into it before attaching the mounting point again.
 
Wot e sed .. ^

Quite a bit of work needed there, the rot all needs cutting out until you have proper, shiny metal, not rust. I'm surprised you could even get it to weld onto the rust in the first place! Hit it with a hammer to knock the holes wider till they stop expanding, then cut it all out, grind back to solid. Then you need make repair panels fabricated from sheet steel and welded in place, then you can look at the suspension mount.

However .. Once you start hitting it to find where it 'rings' (good steel) bear in mind that D2's rot their chassis for breakfast, so you might have to cut away a lot more than is apparent at first sight.

I'd give serious thought to properly checking the other side too ... and the spring mounts, A-frame mounts etc, indeed the whole chassis! Start with a steam clean or a good, powerful, pressure wash ..
 
Agree with the above .. half chassis might be easier, but again, you still have to get the front of the chassis back to properly sound metal before you can successfully weld the rear half back on. Possibly you can't and will do much work to find it's scrap anyway ...
 
Agree with the above .. half chassis might be easier, but again, you still have to get the front of the chassis back to properly sound metal before you can successfully weld the rear half back on. Possibly you can't and will do much work to find it's scrap anyway ...

Would not advise anyone who welds like that to do any chassis repairs. It is just not good enough.
 
Scrap it it's knackered.

I would agree that the chassis is toast - bearing in mind that they are always worse than they appear - I would recommend some extreme caution in even driving that. Sorry, but that's my take on it from the pictures - which granted, aren't the full story - but it appears very serious to me.

Would not advise anyone who welds like that to do any chassis repairs. It is just not good enough.

If you had "that", ahem, "welding", "professionally" "done", then I would suggest you find an alternative professional, and rather quickly.

A D2, if its mechanically sound can be worth a re-chassis - expensive, but you get a vehicle, that will, to all intents and purposes last for ever ( with proper maintenance - which the above "welding" is most definitely not )

(And, I speak (type) as a welding engineer who has extensive automotive experience)
 
Back
Top