Shocking rear shock issue

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dag019

Well-Known Member
Posts
6,148
Location
Warwick
I am currently away so have no access to parts or tools until I return home Tuesday. I notices on the journey down that the 110 felt bouncier than normal at the rear.

when I stopped I got out and had a look and found one of my rear shocks to be out of its brackets and dangling freely at the lower end. Unlike lots of these failure based on terrifirma snapping the pin off these are OEM shocks the pin is firmly in place as is the nut on the bottom of it! It is however missing the lower washers and the lower bush. no idea how this happened with the nut still being in place and I do not have suitable clothing with me to crawl under and inspect the axle but on a cursory look the bracket is still intact and has not snapped or deformed.

My immidate question is will there be any issue if I strap the dangling shock to the chassis so it is secure and not freely moving. Other than the bounce is there any other adverse effects or potential damage to come from running with a single rear shock for a few days until I get home?
 
Take it easy and you should get home just fine. I had a similar issue with my Ninety early this year on a front shock. A sudden rattling alerted me to the problem. I looked underneath to find the same as you, pin and nut still fine. Walked back up the road as could see something, it was the bush and not far away half the washer.
 
Take it easy and you should get home just fine. I had a similar issue with my Ninety early this year on a front shock. A sudden rattling alerted me to the problem. I looked underneath to find the same as you, pin and nut still fine. Walked back up the road as could see something, it was the bush and not far away half the washer.
That was my plan. We are on the Isle of Wight so don’t have far to travel over the weekend. But do need to get back to the midlands on Monday.
I have no idea when it actually happened but splitting the bush and washer makes sense with the bracket not obviously appearing to be damaged. I am going order a set of both so they are waiting at home for when I return.
 
The shock just absorbs sudden movement, the axle is supported by the spring.
As long as you have dislocation cones and the bump stops are there, you shouldn't have a problem although cornering needs a bit more care.

I'm surprised the washers have disintegrated, normally there is a thick one (2.5mm) against the axle bracket and thin ones against the shock body and the lower nut (1.5mm).
Were these the standard black rubbe5r bushings or poly bushes ?
I though the hole in the support/axle bracket was smaller than the nut too ?
 
If you've got any spanners with you, I'd take it off the top bracket too, and bring it home inside the car. I'd worry about what would happen to it dangling underneath, even if it was tied onto something.

Unless you're doing any very technical offroading on the Isle of Wight, I doubt if you'd need dislocation cones!
 
though the hole in the support/axle bracket was smaller than the nut too ?
Normally it would be. But it looks like I will
Have to get some washers and crack out the welder when I am home.

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If you've got any spanners with you, I'd take it off the top bracket too, and bring it home inside the car. I'd worry about what would happen to it dangling underneath, even if it was tied onto something.

It is all road work. Just away for the weekend with the dog. It is tied up to the tree slider so am hoping it will be secure enough without removal for the journey home.

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Yup ...

That odd, occasional, clonking/knocking you've been vaguely aware of .... I think you found it.
I would agree if there was an pccasional
Knocking/clunking. First symptom I was aware of was it feels bouncier than it should. And I have been very aware of everything as I am still in the “running in” phase after the fire rebuild.
 
Did you not have anything to undo the one nut holding the shock?
Unfortunately not. I removed all my useful thing to make way for a wife and a dog!

I would check the rest of the axle mounting points looking at that.....
I have already done that. Everything else looks fine. Other than potentially the lower shock bushes on the other side could do with changing all is good. I will replace lower bushes on both sides as part of the repair. And the failed side lower bush falling apart could be a reason this happened. The bushes are not that old but are high mileage and have just been sat for 18months doing nothing while being rebuilt. They also might be britpart specials. So a new set is not a problem.
 
Did you have the top hat washers that go into( (either side) the axle bracket?

On the repair put a spot weld on these so they won’t elongate the hole again
 
I took my top hats off, i felt they restricted articulation putting more stress on the shock leg as it passed through the bushes.
Probably not an issue if you are just pootling around on roads/fields and have anti-roll bars.

It is interesting that the Richards Chassis rear shock mount is a lot softer than the shock leg that passed through it ...
 
I took my top hats off, i felt they restricted articulation putting more stress on the shock leg as it passed through the bushes.
Probably not an issue if you are just pootling around on roads/fields and have anti-roll bars.

It is interesting that the Richards Chassis rear shock mount is a lot softer than the shock leg that passed through it ...
It is not the chassis mount for the shock, it is the axle bracket (original slaisbury) for the lower bracket the is now ovel, and the upper is the oem pin mount.
 
Well I am back again with the same issue. I built up the ovel hole to be round again with weld, I fitted new bushes and new tophat washers. But did not get around to spot welding in place as @Hicap phill suggested. I am now about 6k miles later (light track work is as much off road as I have done in this time) and having just done a quick service I notice that the bottom bushes on both sides are virtually non-existent and the repaired side has worn ovel again.

Any suggestions for what might be causing this or is it just poor quality bushes that fail and then allow the shock to wander rather than being held firmly in place?
 
You could consider changing from eye to pin type for eye to eye type a bit like series. On coiler a U bracket is bolted/welded where the pin goes. Seen on comp trucks.
 
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