Help needed on dead p38

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M

markmr2

New Member
Posts
6
Location
peterlee (county durham)
Hi all' i have just bought myself a 95 p38 all was well untill yesterday when driving it. it just stopped on me( as in engine cut out) and i got ABS fault/traction fault on message centre, when i tried to start it again it would not crank just a click from relays, called AA who recoverd me home. i left it for about 3 hours and went to start it and noticed the check engine light was on meaning handshake between becm and ecu was back, tured the key and it started up no probs, drove it round block a few times all ok. went to start it this morning and it started up no probs left it runing for ten mins went to pull away and it stopped running with the same ABS/Traction fault, now when i turn ignition on im not geting the check engine light again, and when i turn key to start i just get a click from a relay. does anyone have any idea what this could be? or is there anyone close to peterlee co Durham that can look at it for me please...Mark.
 
Multi meter get it running I suspect charging fault possibly
 
Thanks for the reply Fanatic. yes it seems to have the symptoms as a failing battery so i got a new one today 95 cca, if i can get it to start again i will test the output on the alternator. but iv still got no check engine light on yet so it wont even crank. do you think buying a syncmate might sort the handshake out to get it started? and thankyou for your help it is much appreciated...mark
 
I hope that 95 was a typo and you meant 950 :eek:

Looks like battery / alternator fault to me too... that's where I'd start. Low voltage when cranking can do all manner of weird and wonderful things to a P38's electrics...
 
Hi Clarky. i put a brand new battery on it strait after it cut out the first time, battery volage is 13.5 volts. what im now not geting is the CHECK ENGINE light and the message centre says ABS FAULT/TRACTION FAULT. when i turn the key the heater display goes off until i release the key. have had another car hooked up to it with jump leads on but still the same
can anyone sugest anyting else i can try? all becm plugs look to be ok no water damage, the battery is good all earth leads are clean and tight.
could this be in the main fuse box as iv been told they are known to fail
the rest of the motor is mint so would like to get it sorted at any cost, im trying to get hold of a syncmate to see if its just a resync problem.
 
The engine check light not coming on is a symptom of loss of becM/ ECU sync on the GEMS system.
This maybe a result of a another issue by the sound of it with the electrical system.possibly with the charging system,under bonnet fusebox or starter relay or even crankshaft position sensor.
 
Check the under bonnet fuse box, all the battery connections and earths, also check the cables for corrosion inside the plastic.
My money would be on the fuse box or alternator. Your error message is due to low volts, either caused by fuse box/connections or a duff alternator.
 
ok lads here goes, one to get your heads round, so i went to it this morning put the key in tured it to p2 on ignition switch and got check engine light, hmm i thought maybe just maybe so then went to start it and it went first turn of the key, im geting 14.34 volts at the battery 14.46 at the alternator with it running. seems that when i leave it for a few hours it somhow resync's itself. my heads in bits with it. any body got any ideas as to this fault............thanks mark.
 
I would suggest Fuse Box....

When electrical things get hot the resistance goes up.....

P38 are plagued with overheating Fuse boxes.....check it for burning smells or signs of overheating.....

When the engine bay and F'box gets warm the resistance changes dragging the voltage low enough to cause havoc with the various ECU's etc.....

When it has had time to cool down, the resistance goes back to normal and hey presto, starts and also getting a good reading across battery etc.....

Just my opinion, but I am not a Sparks or Auto-Electrician....
 
I'd go with fuse box as the next thing to check, too... you have to completely remove it and take it apart to check the circuit board inside - it's double layered and soldered together, so you can't check the other sides of the circuit board without destroying it... however, ANY signs of scorching or burning, or corrosion, replace it - they can be had for around £160-ish from the likes of Island 4x4.
 
Hi Datatec.... i did have a mk1 mr2 with a 2 ltr 20 valve twin turbo in it, engine was out of a carrola leven ..... 140 mph go cart.........
im now using a mitsubishi fto gpx to get to work.
but im hoping i will be going to work in a range rover next week:5bdriving:
 
markmr2 said:
Hi Datatec.... i did have a mk1 mr2 with a 2 ltr 20 valve twin turbo in it, engine was out of a carrola leven ..... 140 mph go cart.........
im now using a mitsubishi fto gpx to get to work.
but im hoping i will be going to work in a range rover next week:5bdriving:
Click to expand...

Still got my MK1b bought new as my company car in '86, I bought it off the company, must be the only one driver MR2 on the road:D Also one of the few that is totally rust free.
As for the P38, always as well to have an alternative means of transport handy, although mine has been fairly reliable, just lots of niggles:)
 
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