HELP !! CLonking

Had to use Diff lock as well and truly bogged down in the woods sunday morning , not got a light when engaged:scratching_chin: .

Reversed quite a way back to make sure it unlocks itself, but now got a very loud, deep bang every now and then when I turn the wheels at slow speeds on a lock,
i.e parking etc.

Sounds like and feels like thru either gearbox or transfer box.

300 Disco, 2" lift. 255 65 R16 Grizzlys !!

sounds like your diffs blown,... diff wind up..poss cause.

CV Joints are more likely than diffs if it's clonking when turning, though diffs are still a possibility.

You checked the rubber damper ring on the back prop? These wear out, and if you were messing in the woods it could have torn it apart leaving the prop to diff connection hanging about on some bolts and loose rubber. So at low speeds with parking it will take up the drive and clunk then you reverse it will take up drive the other way and clunk and so on.

Discoed said:

sounds like your diffs blown,... diff wind up..poss cause.

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He hasn't lost drive, so it doesn't sound like this at all.

Rubber doughnut looks ok as I did clutch and rear main in July as it ****ed out 4 litres of oil in just under two miles.

Wondered if prop joint could be on way out, done front UJ's when box out as they looked dodgy, would lifting it without changing prop cause it to move enuf to slightly alter position on the splines then be forced back on ??
My 4x4 experience is very limited on stuff like this ?

Tyddles said:

Rubber doughnut looks ok as I did clutch and rear main in July as it ****ed out 4 litres of oil in just under two miles.

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Have you checked the UJ at the handbrake end of the rear prop? ... though read my next answer as it sounds more like the front prop or flange yokes.

Tyddles said:

Wondered if prop joint could be on way out. would lifting it without changing prop cause it to move enuf to slightly alter position on the splines then be forced back on ??

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Unlikely that it's come out that far, in fact impossible unless it's forced, there's quite a distance inside the prop, certainly enough to accomodate a 2" lift.

Check the UJ's and diff & transfer flange yokes ... if they're standard, a 2" lift can, in some circumstances, cause the yokes to jam together. If you were stuck and cross-axled such that the right wheel was really low down, the yokes can bind, which could have been the bang you heard. Continuing to drive with them could have opened out one (or both) of the flanges, which could be the knocking you hear as they come together when stressed. I'd also check the outside of the yokes where the UJ cup is held, as these are a known relatively weak point and can crack open, so the UJ whilst not worn itself, can still move about in the yoke.

Read trewey's thread on everything that has gone wrong with his since giving it a 2" lift. and if you go on OLHI ask spudy how much trouble he's had since lifting his disco 2". It would seem that as soon as you lift it ou open yourself up to a series of failures breakages and aggravation.

redhand said:

Read trewey's thread on everything that has gone wrong with his since giving it a 2" lift. and if you go on OLHI ask spudy how much trouble he's had since lifting his disco 2". It would seem that as soon as you lift it ou open yourself up to a series of failures breakages and aggravation.

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Hi Redhand
What's "OLHI" please?

Headtester said:

Hi Redhand
What's "OLHI" please?

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One Laugh Have It! The land Rover Forum To Be On - Powered by vBulletin

:nospamhere: :nospamhere:

redhand said:

www.onlifehaveit.com

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Thanks - comes up as a "not found" though, so does onelifehaveit.com

I'll have another look later

Headtester said:

Thanks - comes up as a "not found" though, so does onelifehaveit.com

I'll have another look later

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that's funny because it works if it's typed directly into the address bar I fear someone has been tampering with my posts

try One Laugh Have It! The land Rover Forum To Be On - Powered by vBulletin or One Laugh Have It! The land Rover Forum To Be On - Powered by vBulletin

And I know the above links work because I just clicked them both. So leave the ****ers alone you cu*nts.

Thanks - cracked it, One Laugh Have It

Tyddles said:

Had to use Diff lock as well and truly bogged down in the woods sunday morning , not got a light when engaged:scratching_chin:

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You should have diff lock engaged as soon as you are off tarmac as without it you potentially have only drive to one wheel. That is when most breakages occur due to ALL of the doubled power in low box going to one wheel.
If you light was not on does this mean it was engaged of not? perhaps that is why you were stuck.

This is a common misconception of a lot of people thinking that the diff lock is only to be used when stuck, like an axle diff lock. whereas it should be used all the time off road.

Your problem could be a number of things but check all the obvious first like check you have drive to a front and rear wheel when in diff lock.

also your deep loud bang could be caused by your diff lock being stuck engaged, causing wind up. not noticed off road because the wheels can slip and catch up on slick surfaces but not on tarmac. Would be more obvious in slow tight turns. the bang could be the tyre kicking back furiously and making the transmission "kick" suddenly. Something will eventually break in this situation.

Tig9619 said:

You should have diff lock engaged as soon as you are off tarmac as without it you potentially have only drive to one wheel. That is when most breakages occur due to ALL of the doubled power in low box going to one wheel.

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Absolute and total bollocks. The only time you need difflock is if there is a likelyhood that you will lose traction. and I'm not sure where you get the only 1 wheel will have drive, from but I'd love you to explain it to us all please.

Tig9619 said:

You should have diff lock engaged as soon as you are off tarmac

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Complete ****e. Difflock should be used when there's not enough traction such as when there's a chance of a wheel spinning. Even when it's wet i go off-road without difflock, it's not a necessity at all until things get very slippery.

Difflock SHOULDNOT be used ALL THE TIME offroad at all, that is a sure way to **** up a transmission. There are many times offroading when there is enough traction to break a diff-locked tranny, probably far more times than when you actually need diff-lock, especially in dry weather!

well i thank you for your comments I'm sure BORDA (British Off Road Driving Association) of which I am an Instructor, will be happy to hear them.
Yes there are times off road when you dont need to use it BUT you are more likely to break something or get stuck without it, and have less control of the vehicle.
As for one wheel driving without difflock that is 100% true.
If you pick up a wheel of a vehicle with an open axle diff then it will spin yes? With the centre diff lock disengaged? YES it will spin.
Therefore with the centre diff OPEN all the power will go to either the front or the rear and to whichever wheel with the lest amount of resistance.
why do you think that when you pick up the back of your vehicles with the handbrake on but centre diff open it will still fall of a jack.
So gentlemen without your centre diffs engaged you POTENTIALLY only have one wheel drive if one is off the ground.
That one wheel that is spinning will have 100% of the power going to it therefore more likely to break an halfshaft, cv or diff.

No-one else gonna argue then?

Tig9619 said:

well i thank you for your comments I'm sure BORDA (British Off Road Driving Association) of which I am an Instructor, will be happy to hear them.

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Remind me never to use borda if that's what they teach ya..

Yes there are times off road when you dont need to use it BUT you are more likely to break something or get stuck without it, and have less control of the vehicle.

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Bollocks Difflock shud only be used if there is a significent risk of losing traction. and low box shud only be used where an extremely low speed or plenty of lowdown grunt iss required. On the chippy run I think Mrs B used difflock about 3 times and only to get past a specific obstacle. and then it was straight back to open diffs. 80odd miles of laning less than one mile of difflock nothing broken, never got stuck.

So gentlemen without your centre diffs engaged you POTENTIALLY only have one wheel drive if one is off the ground.
That one wheel that is spinning will have 100% of the power going to it therefore more likely to break an halfshaft, cv or diff.

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bull****e. the only time you're likely to snap a half shaft or diff is if it is subjected to a massive loading shock. so while it's spinning merrily away in mid air it is under no danger whatsoever. However if you've got difflock engaged and you're spinning all your wheels, and you suddenly gain grip that is when you are far more likely to snap something.